Hello all. Iv got a 468 big block motor and I need a set of heads, I dont know exactly what Im looking for, but I do know I want them stock and cast nothing fancy. Can anyone give some basic info. on what type of heads that would help in this build. Im looking for the best cast-stock performing head that would work. Ive heard of people talk about 215's or 180's. Im new to this and need help. Thanks to everyone

We will need more specs on the motor, what cam, and rpm range of the cam. Also what's the goal of the car, bottom end torque or rpms 6,000rpms+.

Do you already have the pistons bought or installed ?? It will make a difference as to which style of head to recommend...open chamber or closed. The pistons need to match the head for correct compression ratio.

Thanks for the feedback fella's, what Im starting out with is just a block (454) that has been bored .060 over and a steel crack that has been turned .010. This car (68 Chevelle) is going to be a weekend cruiser, a nice ride to cruise the shows in the summer. I want to build a reliable and dependable motor. Yeah, Id love to have a ground pounding-thumpin machine but the funds just arent there. (Maybe one day) But as for right now. I need a starting point, which I thought I had until this topic come along. Could'nt I find a set of good cast iron heads and match the cam and pistons to the heads? Say I bought a set of the 215's which I think are closed chamber and oval port heads and bought the components to match, would that make a conciderable amount of difference in the power? I wish I could afford the high dollar heads and go all out....but....again funds not available.

The more I read the more I learn about what it takes to build a big block. I have learned alot by reading post here at T/C. There are a lot of knowledgealble people on this site. Hopefully one day I can give that kind of advice.. Thanks again for the replies

Sounds like the BSE might be right up your alley. He uses 215's. More info at the link below (1/2 down the post):

http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi/topic/4/23258.html?#000000

Thanks Gordo, I'll check it out.

One option is to see what is available that you can get a deal on. It maybe better to find someone who is upgrading and has a nice set that are ready to go and cheaper than finding a used set that needs alot of work. I think either the 290 Closed Chamber or 781 Open Chamber style heads make great sense for a nice street motor. If you keep it on the mild side, the matching componets (intake, carb, converter) are cheaper to buy also i.e. with a smaller cam you can get buy with a $250 11 inch instead of a $400 10 inch.

Thanks Mike, found a set of 290's here in my home town. He says the heads have been magnafuxed and are bare heads. He is asking $200 bucks for these heads, does this sound about normal for a set of bare heads? What would it cost to have these heads worked? With new valves and springs and so on. These heads were running last summer, like you said... he upgraded to alum. heads. Thanks for all the info. I need all the help I can get.

In 2003 I had bare 215's bowl blended,2.19/1.88 valves installed, new valve guides installed, valves unshrouded, chamber polished and milled the deck to get the chambers at 101cc for $1000.00. That included Titanium retainers, ARP studs, Comp guide plates and SS Manley 11/32 valves. I don't remember the spring brand but it was set up for .620 lift solid cam. I've not got them installed yet as I'm in the middle of rebuilding my drag car motor
Gary

Its about the going rate. It depends how much work they need. My machine shop charges 250 for a basic valve job and guides (includes assembly). Add the price of valves, springs, seals, retainers plus the 200 you all ready have in them and you are probably looking at 600-800 for a set of stock heads. I was hoping you could get a set like Paddy had done used for 500-600.

Thanks for all the info fella's. Im going to Charlotte in April. Maybe I can find a reasonable set to buy there. Mike and Paddy you guys give me something to look at. If your going to put 800 to 1000 in head work alone, your probably better off just to buy new from jegs or some other producer right? Hopefully I can luck up on a deal in Charlotte next month. Hey Mike how is your 68 coming along? Thanks again, James

James,
If I had known how high the bill at the machine shop was going to climb I'd have bought aftermarket heads.
Also, if Brodix ovals were available at the time I'd have bought them. Contact Wolfplace/Mike Lewis for pricing on them and AFR heads, he contributes a lot of good info to the board and has good prices. Gary

Thanks Gary, I guess Id better start saving up some money huh. Big block is the way I want to go no matter what. I love the bottom end torq and rumble of a big block. I'll get there, just will take a little time. Ive heard it alot on this site "Power = alot of money"

Cubic inches = Cubic dollar$.