I fired and ran in the motor today. Today the work and time of slowly building this engine and car have come to a head! I'm happy, i have some things to full around with, and this motor sounds good!

I'm thinking that a few of you guys were waiting to hear that i fired it up....finally ;)

One of the things that makes me proud is that i had 0 leaks! :D The planets must have been in the correct alignment today smile.gif

I would like to thank all of you guys for the moral support, I would like to make a special thanks to Ed, who helped me with all of my many questions through this project, and especially today.
I would also like to thank Dave (Sheetmetal), Dave, thanks for keeping faith in this young man!

http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/camaroracer/1088139629-003950.jpg

BSE Power

"Good" haha(in reference to the Verizon Commercials of course)


Looks good Brian. graemlins/thumbsup.gif Now ya got some power under your foot to back up the clean look of your gold camaro! Congrats on the successful fireup, lookin' forward to what kind of times she clips off!

thats the next installment, stay tuned :D

In the coming weeks, i want to be absolutely sure that everything is right and all the safety stuff is installed before hand.

:cool: graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Tell us more about this BSE smallblock.

Brian’s Stroker "Street" Small Block

350 +.040" 4 bolt block 3.75” Stroke crank= 385ci
-SRP Forged Pistons #138094 with Plasma Moly file fit rings
-10.05:1 CR
-350 block “0” deck, Blueprinted
-Clevite 77 bearings
-Fel-Pro Gaskets
-Eagle Cask Crank 3.75" Stroke External balance
-Crower Sportsman 6” cap screw Rods ARP main studs
-Milodon louvered Windage tray
-GM Stock oil pan and pickup
-Melling Standard oil pump
-Cloyes true Roller timing set
-World Products Sportsman II 200cc intake port heads 72cc combustion chambers fitted with Race Flo 2.02/1.60 back-cut valves bowl blend
-Performer RPM intake manifold
-Holley 3310 750cfm Vacuum Sec. Carb
-4 hole spacer 1/2” tall
-Holley carb Heat Shield
-Crower Cams #00321 (Ground on a 108LSA) Solid Flat tappet 242/248 Dur .050” .482/.504" valve lift Crane double Valve Springs #99893-16
-Rocker Arms- Crower Stainless Steel 1.5
-Comp One Piece .080” wall 5/16” Pushrods
-MSD Ready-to-run Pro Billet Blaster II chrome coil
-Headers- 1-5/8” primary 3” collector, 33” average primary tube length
Scavenger style collector
-3” head pipe/H style crossover Dynomax Oval UltraFlo mufflers, 3” dumps.
-Carter 172gph mechanical pump plumbed to 3/8" fuel line.
-Mobil 1 5W-30 oil, Ford F-type transmission fluid Coastal 75w-90 Gear oil
-TH-350 by STR, ATI 10” Treemaster Converter, 4.10 gears Cheetah shifter
-Summit Steel OEM style damper
-Koni Street Adjustable front shocks set full soft
-Moog 6314 springs
16.44” …………………….free height
.601”………………………..wire dia.
289 lbs/in………………..rate
1744………………………..total load

2 questions:
1) Interesting choice of motor oil. I don't think I have ever seen 0-20w on the shelves. How did you arrive at that?
2) Why a "cast" crank but cap screw rods and main studs?


Not picking on the combo, just curious. I know very little about small blocks.

The pics look good. You have done a real nice job with this project. The last time I saw your car at the track, it had a 6-banger in it!

Brian, Congrats,and job well done graemlins/thumbsup.gif . im very impressed with the patiance youve shown by taking youre time and not compromising things for the sake of getting the car on the road. this is an atribute that will serve you well in life. good luck at the track. Dave

Jim,
i should edit that, i've changes plans to go with 5w-30 instead, still Mobil 1, but after i have some miles on it.

i have a case of 0w-20 sitting on my bench, some Honda's use it, so it's main stream.

Pro stocks use much lighter oil.

i broke it in with 15w-40

the cast crank is an eagle aftermarket, it was a gift, so i used it. I'm not concerned with it, since we're only talking 6000rpms through the lights, maybe.

I bought crower capscrew rods because i could clearance them to the cam without grinding on the rod bolt, and they were lighter then the through bolt rod.


Main studs because we were going to alignhone the block ethier way, and they didnt cost but a few dollars more then bolts. I like the studs much better.
Of course the block had a full prep job done on it, including align honing, cutting the decks to an average of .004" and honing with a torque plate.

Dave,
thanks!

Sounds like it's gonna have lots of torque, do you have the frame sections tied together???

It looks great.

I anxiously await your track times.

What are you expecting to run ?

I predict low 12's/high 11's graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Brian, Looking Good. Glad to see it is all coming together for you now.

It is clear you have worked hard on your project and had the patience to do it right. It has been a few years coming...now enjoy it !

thats the plan :D
thanks for the compliment!

i put in subframe connectors, in my exhaust post you can see the modifications i had to do to get the bolt in peices to work.

I'll probably be putting in a 6 point roll bar some time over the summer as well, to increase the integrity.