: 350 perforance tips
bri2203 Jun 6th, 04, 2:40 PM I just bought a 1970 chevelle 350, 4 barral, 350 turbo trans, 3.31 posi 12 bolt. Over the weekend i pulled the engine and transmission. Right now the transmission is being rebuilt. My dad got me the hook up on rebuilding my engine. I get to go to a engine shop and they are going to teach me how to rebuild my engine completely! If you were me what mods would you do inside the engine or outside? The engine is rated at 300 hp and i would like to get 350.
I would like to get headers but the car came with a new dual eshaust and i don't want to pay for another exhaust
thanks
Brian
Bob West Jun 6th, 04, 3:15 PM Headers are easy enough to plumb to your new exhaust and they are pretty much a must if you're looking for any performance. For 350+ horsepower I'm sold on the vortec heads and intake from scoggin dickey and I like the comp xe274h cam,and a good 650 Holley carb and you'll be tearing up the track to the tune of low 13's easy enough.
Originally posted by Rapid Robert:
Headers are easy enough to plumb to your new exhaust and they are pretty much a must if you're looking for any performance. For 350+ horsepower I'm sold on the vortec heads and intake from scoggin dickey and I like the comp xe274h cam,and a good 650 Holley carb and you'll be tearing up the track to the tune of low 13's easy enough. Well, I don't know about low 13s...low 14s/high 13s sound more like it, unless you have or are going to lighten up the car, build your suspension for the track and do plenty of fine tunning to the motor. If you want easy 13s, then your best bet is stroking the motor. Torque is what you need to get your car going. Headers are a must, you won't need a new exhaust system, all you'll have to do is cut the pipes to the appropriate size of the headers, slap on the flanges and you're set. You can see if someone there at the shop has access to a torch, or just take the car to your local muffler shop and have them do it. As for your cam, I don't really have much knowldege of how the specs affect performance, but I'd say get a cam with a lift no smaller then .470". Compression, you'd want nothing less then 9.0:1 and no more then 10.0:1 to keep it streetable. As for your intake, get an Edelbrock RPM or Air Gap and a Holley 750 vaccumm secondary. Make sure your tranny has a good shift kit, get a good stall converter...depending on cam, anywhere between 2,000-2800 stall, and some good gears about back...some 3.73s would be perfect. Good luck with you motor and keep us filled in with your progress graemlins/thumbsup.gif
By the way, if you were to build something along the lines of what I previously descrbed, you'd have yourself an easy 13s or 12s car...things being dependant on car wieght and traction...Have Fun!!! graemlins/thumbsup.gif graemlins/hurray.gif graemlins/beers.gif
Bob West Jun 6th, 04, 9:58 PM my sons 81 chevy p/u runs 13.50's with the setup I prescribed,,,flat tops,vortec heads, and the comp cam,3.73's...now if that box will run mid 13's a chevelle has to go low 13's, hard to hook a truck also,best 60ft. is 1.94
RB69SS396Conv Jun 10th, 04, 11:53 AM LOOK AT THE HEAD CASTINGS!!!!! Get the casting numbers. Those could easily be the old "double-hump" heads, probably 186 casting. If so, DO NOT let them shop trade them in as cores and give you off-the-shelf already-worked heads, as you will be GETTING RIPPED OFF!!!! If that's what they are, have them re-worked, ported a little bit, better valves such as Manley Street-Flow or the like, and a cam kit from one of the major mfrs such as Comp, Lunati, Crane, etc. Look for a cam in the range of 215-220° intake duration at .050", and a bigger exhaust lobe than the intake; such as the Comp XE262.
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