When installed straight up, what is the intake closing angle of this camshaft? The cam card only gives me .050" specifications... Thank you!

Strong cam for 355 Pro Street car, 2500 SS converter, 600 or better Holley, headers and 3.55 gear.* Power 2500 to 6800.
276
284
243
251
0.518
0.530
0.345
0.353
110
104
401A6LUN

If i have the right cam, Pat Kelley's Calculator puts it at 62 ABTDC.

But Harolds cams are (don't take my word for this) "unsymmetrical" is the word he uses I think. So you might want to call Harold and double check

Thats the cam I have. In my 406, it doesnt really get going until ~2600 rpm with 3.42 gears.

MaTt

Straight from Pat's calc which matched my cam card IIRC.
64 for a 106icl
68 for a 110icl
Depends on what your straight up is....
In my small head 10.9 cr 383, 2400 is where the cruise vac maxes out at. about 18" IIRC.
I loose traction at about 2500rpm so I can't say where it exactly makes power at.

Harold wants it on 104ICL or 6 degrees advanced, he always says his cams make most power there. that's also what the Holley site recommends.

Only way to get 104 is luck or a bushing... Or one of those $$billet$$ multi (more than 3) key way tc's. Lunati bushing set is about $10.

110 is straight up, the new cams are pinned to 106. So with the tc straight up you get 106.
Most people don't take the extra effort.

So with the bushing set, I would just advance it another 2 degrees it sounds like... By the way, can any timing set be drilled for bushings?

Yes and yes. You can also 'rough' the cam timing by getting so that the #1 intake valve ( as measured from the retainer to the head surface) is around .050" closer to the head than the #1 exhaust valve when the motor is in the #6 TDC position.

May seem rough, but sure better than just stabbing it in and running it. Harold's cams like the +4 to +6 position.

Well I didnt degree or bush my cam in, but was wondering a few things. I read that LUnatis cores are already ground at +4. Is that true, so that if my timing marks lined up on my Cloyes chain, my cam would be installed at +4 advanced? If not, does that make my cam at 0* and 6* from optimum?

MaTt

The marks on the timing set are in addition to any advance built into the cam. For example, a cam with 4º built in is advanced 4º when the timing set is installed at "0" advance (4+0). If installed using the +4 timing set marks the cam is installed at 8º (4+4). The term "straight up" should only be used when the cam's LSA and ICL are the same (a 108 cam installed at 108) regardless of where the timing set is installed. To install a cam with 4º build into it "straight up", you use the -4º timing set marks (4-4=0).

Matt, your cam is at 4º if you used the "0" timing set marks.

Ok, good. NExt question. Does anyone know if the lash setting on the LUnati cam card is cold or hot, and if is supposed to be hot and I set it that way cold, what would be the consequences?

MaTt

Originally posted by Mz28att:
Ok, good. NExt question. Does anyone know if the lash setting on the LUnati cam card is cold or hot, and if is supposed to be hot and I set it that way cold, what would be the consequences?

MaTt =
Hot.
Set them .004 tighter cold with aluminum heads & the same to .002 looser with iron.
Recheck them at temp a couple of times but you will find this very close.