I have been building a 454 engine into a performance street engine at about the 425 HP level. I thought I had a low milage standard bore 454. As it turned out 2 of the cylinders have been sleeved. I was told that this was a highly professional sleeving job. Does this compromise the engine in terms of a buildup.

I was told that the sleeve is actually stronger than the original bore. I don't know that for fact and am sure others will reply that can verify that. I had a bunch of money into a block that sucked a valve and cracked one bore, to salvage the machine work previously done on the block, we sleeved it. Was cheaper than starting over.

I believe the NASCAR spec engine builders sleeve all eight cylinders. :cool:

Aren't the sleeves made out of steel? That would make them stronger than the cast iron block.

Rob

My buddy used to build hi HP smallblocks for sprint cars..they used to sleeve all 8 before they started. If done correctly, its fine.

if the shop doing the sleeving knows wha they are doing then sleeving is not a problem and in some instances for some applications is better ..

Not a problem if done correctly in MOST BLOCKS.
But a standard repair sleeve is not stronger than a standard bore & no matter what you are told a repair sleeve while very good is not as strong as an unsleeved block.
Also if you are sleeving you want to have the engine bored afterward if at all possible as the adjacent cylinders are not going to be round anymore.
The reason the cup guys are using sleeves is they are using a different material with a coating called Nikasil.
These are not sleeves in the sense of a repair sleeve but a liner. Different deal.
The sleeves are very thin & it is nothing like your standard repair sleeve which is not steel it is cast iron or a ductile moly casting in the case of the real good ones.
Almost all standard repair sleeves are cast just like your block.
Some are harder & called HP sleeves but still cast.
Just because you hear all 8 cylinders are sleeved in a specific engine does not make it a good idea for all engines.
A 454 is a very good candidate for a repair sleeve if it needs one & if done correctly will give you no trouble assuming there is still some support behind it.

My 396 has 2 sleeves (#7 and #8), each from two separate events... No problems. But then again, I know my machinist knew what he was doing... If buying a sleeved block, do you know if the machinist properly installed the sleeve?

My machinist said there was no problem (mild performance). Previous owner threw a rod throught the cylinder, but the rest of the block magg'd fine... Years later, another cylinder cracked (Hydro'd?)...

It depends on the sleeve, and who installed & finished it.

I've been privy to some of the latest research in this arena. There are some new materials being used for cylinder sleeves which greatly increase the sealing capabilities of the rings while simultaneously reducing friction. Research at Sunnen has been discovering optimal ring seal requirements and this has proven the need for machining to occur at operating temperature and with proper materials.

This was done by F1 interests, and their requirements are among the most brutal on the planet.

Findings have indicated the need for sleeves to be of specific materials relevant to the ring materials chosen to create the seal with them. The final finish (hone) is also under scrutiny.

Much is being learned on this front, and the high quality steel required for optimal cylinder seal have proven to be more expensive than "typical" sleeves found at most machine shops. Naturally, how the sleeve is installed is also key, but since not every cylinder has been sleeved in your block, there will be variances between the sleeved cylinders and those retaining the original block material.

Consider this- All aluminum blocks run sleeves in all 8 cyliners.

There's nothing wrong with sleeved cylinders as repairs, and if done correctly, sleeving all eight cylinders with the proper materials and coordinating the material choice with the rings to be used can offer a definite and proven performance advantage for both efficiency of ring seal and durability of the ring/cylinder wall over time.

More facts: Iron blocks do not move as much under stress and/or heat as aluminum blocks do. The alloy blocks have been PROVEN to LOSE power when identically-equipped with high performance parts for racing use.

Temperature is key, and the best-possible case sccenario would include a hot home with the materials at around 200 degrees, with a false head installed (torque plate) also at operating temperature.

So, if you get top-quality sleeves with optimal sealing qualities, have an experienced pro install them into your iron block, and then machine them to size at 200 degrees with the false heard torqued to spec atop the block, you'd be doing everything you couold to take full advantage of the latest sleeve technology.


Scotch~!

Just for comparison, all of the big bore diesels run sleeved cylinders. Had our '83 Mack 6 banger done last year. 6 sleeves, pistons, bearings, crank turned, cam was welded up and reground. Motor had 500K on it but probably close to 1 million miles when converted from running hours to road miles equivalent. One heck of a lot cheaper than buying a whole new motor.

Most diesel blocks use liners,not sleeves. Right?

Good boat diesel engines are sleeved from the factory. Tons of compression and forces in a diesel engine...

Theo.

I think the terms are interchangeable. The difference you may be referring to is whether the sleeve is a wet or dry sleeve design. Wet sleeves, the entire cylinder barrell is replaced, dry sleeves are done like a traditional iron block.

We are talking completely different things here.
A repair sleeve is just that.
A sleeve or liner in a diesel or in an aluminum block that is designed for a sleeve or liner is a totally different deal.
In the case of an aluminum block the block is designed to support the liner, with a few OEM exceptions, & these use fairly thick sleeves.
In the case of a wet sleeve diesel, the sleeve itself is very thick & ridged & is designed to support itself.
This has almost nothing in common with a repair sleeve.
With a repair sleeve you are compromising the integrity of the original cylinder to install it.
If it is supported by the original cylinder wall this is normally not an issue in most cases like the SB 400 where you can get up against the head bolt holes
But if you have a crack on the thrust side or the original cylinder wall is no longer there then you do not want a repair sleeve that is less than 1/8 inch thick supporting combustion in a performance application.
A cylinder liner is just that something put into an application designed to support it.
A wet sleeve like a diesel is designed with the strength to be self supporting.
A repair sleeve should be self-explanatory ;)

Talk about topics getting way off track. But at least everyone should now know the difference in "sleeves" and application. In short though, to answer the original question, for a 454 at 425HP, he should have a good motor there complete with 2 sleeved cylinders. If he said this was to be a 600-700HP motor, it would probably not be such a good idea, not that it couldn't hold up, but I would consider a different block.

The other instance is the guy that has the rare matching numbers big buck HiPo car [how many 427 Vettes do you think are out there with sleeved cylinders???-plenty] and desperately wants to keep it intact, then by all means sleeve it.

My buddy's totally restored (concourse restoration) '40 Chevy Woody Wagon has the original 6 banger in it - with 4 sleeved cylinders - this was a no brainer. Mike you will appreciate this - babbitted rods.

just make sure you machinist installs sleeve on a ledge at bottom of cylinder. many people install without a ledge and rely on press fit only.
the machine shop i work at installs all sleeves on a ledge with a press fit and loctite.
100.00 each w/sleeve

Thanks For all the great info.