I have a 70 EC; all stock, down to it's original [worn out] suspension. I have a Lee replacement steering box [quick ratio], and I'm ready to layout for an entire new front end, but would like to stay with my stock spindles. Or do I?
I would like to improve the handling of this car and I understand lowering the cars weight or center of gravity has dramatic improvements [like, but not exactly to my wifes BMW3 series] but I don't want to give up ground clearance unecessarily. I'm not against a lowered stance, but I want to go about driving without worrying about my oil, aluminum tranny pan or ceramic headers [are there 16 or 17" rally rims out there?].

Question 1: If I replace the stock U & L front CA's with tubular and retain the stock spindles, is there any measurable or noticeable gain in handling vs. a rebuilt stock configuration?

Question 2: Does the SC&C/Spohn combination of upper & lowers with the Howe extended ball joints have the same effect on suspension geometry as replacing stock spindles with taller spindles [in other words is it a way to achieve almost the same lowered center of gravity without changing out the spindles]?

Question 3: Suppose I choose to stay with a stock config. suspension [except for the Lee steering box], but with tubular front U&L CA's; in that
case is the SC&C system better than say CPP, BMR or others due to the 'shimless' install/easier alignment or better header clearance faetures or issues?

Question 4: If I went to a tall AFX] spindle/any make of frt tubular U&Ls, but only wanted minimal drop [1/2-3/4"], does that cancel the suspension improvement gain?

Ultimately, yeah, I want that El Camino to handle like it's on rails; similarly, I want to not bottom out on reasonable road features. Lots of variables to factor in, yet it's still an El Camino and not a 3series BMW.
Opinions or experiences?
Thanks,
JPS

The change in center of gravity is not that big of deal, it's the change in roll center and camber curves where the big improvements are made. Obviously lower is better in terms of handling, but the difference of an inch or so will never make a difference on the street.

17" rally wheels are available from www.wheelvintiques.com in both steel and aluminum. :)

Question 1: If I replace the stock U & L front CA's with tubular and retain the stock spindles, is there any measurable or noticeable gain in handling vs. a rebuilt stock configuration?Very little. You will notice a very slight steering feel improvement by running far more positive caster than achievable with stock parts, but that's where it ends... no change in camber curve, no change in roll center, and no appreciable gains in lateral grip.

Question 2: Does the SC&C/Spohn combination of upper & lowers with the Howe extended ball joints have the same effect on suspension geometry as replacing stock spindles with taller spindles [in other words is it a way to achieve almost the same lowered center of gravity without changing out the spindles]?It does have the same effect as tall spindles, but it barely makes any change to CG. It will lower your car about 1/2" only. The BIG improvements come from the corrected camber-curve and raised roll-center height. (Stock camber curve is backwards, and RCH is below-ground) As a nice side-benefit, it eliminates approximately 85% of the factory bumpsteer by moving the steer arm about 1/2" upward with the spindle. This is the MOST cost-effective way to achieve these benefits. :yes:

SC&C at this time does not have Chevelle lower A-arms available, but they are said to be currently in production. At this time, I'd recommend CPP's lowers as a great low-cost tubular arm... these (and all other tubular lowers) provide NO change in geometry though, and the only purpose for lower tubulars is for added strength. SC&C's lowers will be more expensive than the CPP's but they will move the lower balljoint forward slightly, and offer some adjustability to the ride-height.

Question 3: Suppose I choose to stay with a stock config. suspension [except for the Lee steering box], but with tubular front U&L CA's; in that
case is the SC&C system better than say CPP, BMR or others due to the 'shimless' install/easier alignment or better header clearance faetures or issues?
In this case, I would not go with the SC&Cs because they will not have much frame clearance with a stock-height/stock-spindle car. Most others use a curved shape upper to provide the necessary clearance, but the adjustables need to be straight to be adjustable, which limits the rebound travel when used in stock configuration. They work great on lowered cars with taller effective spindle height, though... best option for the money in that case.

Question 4: If I went to a tall AFX] spindle/any make of frt tubular U&Ls, but only wanted minimal drop [1/2-3/4"], does that cancel the suspension improvement gain?
No, again the camber-curve and roll center height will be vastly improved with this setup, regardless of ride height. The AFX spindle will drop your car 7/8" though, as they did raise the pin 7/8" I assume for roll center reasons.

Derek,
Thanks for the comprehensive answers; if I understood you then, regarding the SC&C/Spohn U/L combo, is that it yeilds about 1/2" drop from stock and the Howe extended ball joints help accomodate clearance of headers [small block] since the SC&C upper adjustables don't have the curvature to achieve the clearance. In effect, you have to use an extended ball joint with the SC&C uppers if you run stock spindles.
Together with the shimless setup, this sounds as good as it gets for the money.

Then alternately, other than cost, would I need to go with tall spindles to achieve the same results with say CPP or BMR systems?

One other issue with the SC&C/Spohn combo: would I be OK with stock [non-progressive] springs? Intended use with 16" rallys [60 or 65 series] as daily driver; no autocross or ET's.

BTW: I've seen your posted pics for the Malibu and the Chevelle; the Malibu is obviously running larger wheels, but is it also dropped? The SS looks like its a stock [F-41?] setup. Did I get that right? They both look good.

The drop comes form the tall lower ball joint. The arms being adjustable is what gives the extra header clearance by not requiring shims.