http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cf36b3127cceb07e98a8742400000026109IZMWTVw0I

Well I am away from home (and the real Chevelle) for a while, so I'll see if I can work on this one in the mean time.

I'll ask you all for help along the way, of course.
:beers:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cf36b3127cceb07e98d3f56f00000026109IZMWTVw0I

Make it a rat rod of some sort. Start by painting it flat black. Hmm

I've still got a 55 with a blower motor,I put togeather when I was about 15.It's painted Red with a White top.I even put wheels off a Lambo. on it.Ha Ha.I told my wife if it ever came up missing,I'd devorce her.And I'm serious.
I dam near cried when my first wife let the boys play with the 66 Chevelle;which was in peices when I got home.

Saw a beautiful Gold 300 at the Rod Run this Fall.

I've still got a 55 with a blower motor,I put togeather when I was about 15.It's painted Red with a White top.I even put wheels off a Lambo. on it.Ha Ha.I told my wife if it ever came up missing,I'd devorce her.And I'm serious.
I dam near cried when my first wife let the boys play with the 66 Chevelle;which was in peices when I got home.

Saw a beautiful Gold 300 at the Rod Run this Fall.

I haven't made a model in probably 20 years. Looking forward to it.

Have any pictures of that gold 300? See my signature to see why I ask.

Well it happens I am currently working on the same model...

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle011.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle015.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle010.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle012.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle014.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle013.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle017.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle016.jpg
Perhaps this will give you a few ideas.

Oh, and if wagons are your thing, I also recently finished this one:

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle006.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle005.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle004.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle007.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle002.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle009.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j312/djw69Nova/album%20name/chevelle001.jpg

It's a kit also manufactured by Revell, still avaliable in stores.

Wow! That did give me some ideas. Both models look great! I just finished painting the shell flat black as previously suggested. But your blue Chevelle looks awesome.

Now I am surfing TC for BBC pics to get the paint scheme right. The usefulness of this site knows no bounds...

I haven't made a model in probably 20 years. Looking forward to it.

Have any pictures of that gold 300? See my signature to see why I ask.

I'll see if I can find one.

Nice! If you need any advice, let me know...I've dabbled a bit.

Let us know when you find the build sheet!!!!!! :thumbsup:

The orange that I have both of those engines painted with is Testor's model masters Chevy engine orange, if that helps.

I did that same 67 model about 20 years ago, it was cast in green.
Here's a pic of some models made to look like my real cars, I did the 71 to look like my 71 when I first got it. I actually had the street scoop on it back then, The green matched at the time, the paint was faded real bad. The 65 my brother did to look like the elco when it was 2 wheel drive.


http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff88/Brets71/100_0925.jpg

Update:

First Big Block Build:
http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cf11b3127cceb15ee24cbec900000026109IZMWTVw0I

Chassis (?) picture:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cf11b3127cceb15eedf7feed00000026109IZMWTVw0I

Body in primer:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cf11b3127cceb15ee2e2be6700000026109IZMWTVw0I

Parts:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cf11b3127cceb15ee1fc7fd000000026109IZMWTVw0I

Are you guys painting all your small parts with a brush (drybrush technique)? Like engine block, exhaust parts, detail parts, seats, etc. Or are you actually painting all those parts with an airbrush or similiar application?

I have several model cars just sitting around here for years waiting for me to figure out just how the painting part is best done. I dont want to screw them up. Im not worried about the assembly of these things.

I always painted mine with small spray cans and paint brushes. In fact I have a 70' Velle waiting for my son and I to attack. Just need to find time away from the real one in the garage! :thumbsup:

Are you guys painting all your small parts with a brush (drybrush technique)? Like engine block, exhaust parts, detail parts, seats, etc. Or are you actually painting all those parts with an airbrush or similiar application?

I usually paint the body of my models with a spray can, then go over them with clear coat.

In the past I've done my interiors with a brush and bottle but now if I can I spray those too as it goes on smoother and helps bring out the detail better.

I also usually spray the frames/chassis/underbodies as well.

The smaller parts such as the engines and such I usually brush paint. I would recommend spraying them if possible, I just haven't gotten up the nerve to buy an airbrush kit yet.

When painting parts I have found it easier to leave the parts on the trees and paint, then cut off and install when the time comes.

I have a '67 pro street that's languishing because I can't find Testors aluminum paint anywhere.

I am not very equipped for modelmaking. I am painting everything with a brush except the body. I bought one regular sized rattle can of flat black for that. The detail painting with a brush is driving me a little nuts, particularly the window moldings on the body.

I do have Testors Aluminum paint, but don't know where to get it (was sent to me from someone else).

If you look hard in the pictures, you can see that in the absence of toothpicks to apply glue with, I have determined that uncooked spaghetti works great for this. When the blob of glue on the end dries, just snap it off and start again.

Where are the plug wires? :) Looks good, I might just have to start doing one myself, its been years. At least now my parents won't be around to scream when I get a little paint on the carpet or kitchen table. Ooops...


When I did models, I would removes the pieces from the trees, glue two halves together if necessary. Trim the flashing, plastic putty and sand to removed the molding lines. Then paint with a badger air brush. I also use to use this sheet of like chrome leaf, that you just press against drop rails and what not and they would instantly become Chromed.

If you can find testors silver, go buy a tall can of spray paint... Silver, or Chrome if you prefer.. Spay a dab on a cardboard swatch then grab your brush and go to work.

I use to be into vinyl models as well. I once had the Terminator II skeleton, this was my first vinyl. I looked over the part that said to use only acrylic based paints on vinyl. I use a spray can of silver, learned my lesson. While it still looked like the terminator is also was sticky enough to double as fly tape.


Big D.

Nice :thumbsup:

I always painted mine with small spray cans and paint brushes. In fact I have a 70' Velle waiting for my son and I to attack. Just need to find time away from the real one in the garage! :thumbsup:

I usually paint the body of my models with a spray can, then go over them with clear coat.

In the past I've done my interiors with a brush and bottle but now if I can I spray those too as it goes on smoother and helps bring out the detail better.

I also usually spray the frames/chassis/underbodies as well.

The smaller parts such as the engines and such I usually brush paint. I would recommend spraying them if possible, I just haven't gotten up the nerve to buy an airbrush kit yet.

When painting parts I have found it easier to leave the parts on the trees and paint, then cut off and install when the time comes.

I am not very equipped for modelmaking. I am painting everything with a brush except the body. I bought one regular sized rattle can of flat black for that. The detail painting with a brush is driving me a little nuts, particularly the window moldings on the body.

I do have Testors Aluminum paint, but don't know where to get it (was sent to me from someone else).

If you look hard in the pictures, you can see that in the absence of toothpicks to apply glue with, I have determined that uncooked spaghetti works great for this. When the blob of glue on the end dries, just snap it off and start again.

Then that brings me to the question I was really wondering about. Since you guys have done this before and are using brushes for small parts. How are you preventing brush strokes from showing up in the paint? Also, I take it, that part being painted w/ a brush depends on if it uses glossy paint or semi gloss, or even dull?

Can you get a nice orange finish on a Chevy V8 engine if you brush the paint on? I guess I just picture there being a lot of work to load an air brush and painting a few small parts and then having to clean up the brush after that. Not to mention the amount of masking on the sprue to prevent the nearby parts.

I have a '67 pro street that's languishing because I can't find Testors aluminum paint anywhere.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tes/tes4677.htm nice cars guys

Then that brings me to the question I was really wondering about. Since you guys have done this before and are using brushes for small parts. How are you preventing brush strokes from showing up in the paint? Also, I take it, that part being painted w/ a brush depends on if it uses glossy paint or semi gloss, or even dull?

Can you get a nice orange finish on a Chevy V8 engine if you brush the paint on? I guess I just picture there being a lot of work to load an air brush and painting a few small parts and then having to clean up the brush after that. Not to mention the amount of masking on the sprue to prevent the nearby parts.

Brush strokes are neglagible in my experience with such small parts. I usually put the paint on small parts thick enough that it would completely cover it in one coat and being fairly thick, it never left brush lines once dry. It just takes practice and you have to find your own style of doing it. Spraying them always leaves the best finish but can be very time consuming with so many small parts.

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff88/Brets71/100_0925.jpg[/IMG]

The 65 is a 4x4 now?

Brush strokes are neglagible in my experience with such small parts. I usually put the paint on small parts thick enough that it would completely cover it in one coat and being fairly thick, it never left brush lines once dry. It just takes practice and you have to find your own style of doing it. Spraying them always leaves the best finish but can be very time consuming with so many small parts.

Ditto all this. Parts are too small and paint too thick for brush strokes. I only have two brushes, one little and one bigger. I just paint everything I can with one color, clean the brush, and move on to the next. I am invariably going back to paint something I forgot, or didn't know I had to paint the backside, or to touch up something I smudged with my fingers, or got another color on...

I'm sure an airbrush would be great for the body parts, but just not geared up for this and will have to make do with my one rattle can and two small brushes.

Then that brings me to the question I was really wondering about. Since you guys have done this before and are using brushes for small parts. How are you preventing brush strokes from showing up in the paint? Also, I take it, that part being painted w/ a brush depends on if it uses glossy paint or semi gloss, or even dull?

Can you get a nice orange finish on a Chevy V8 engine if you brush the paint on? I guess I just picture there being a lot of work to load an air brush and painting a few small parts and then having to clean up the brush after that. Not to mention the amount of masking on the sprue to prevent the nearby parts.

With the smaller parts (exhaust pipes) I kind of go heavy on the steel paint, it turns out well and you really don't see the brush marks at all.

Same thing on the interior pieces, I went a bit heavy, but not too heavy on the paint. Most of the time the interiors came out good but obviously a spray can comes out more evenly and not so textured.

Bigger parts with smoother surfaces (body) would show the brush marks MUCH better.

Yes you can make an engine look good with a brush and Testor's Chevy red enamel. IMO the paint will blend in well with the texturing of the engine.

Also when painting parts I find it easiest to mass paint one color at one time. For example, any and all parts I do up in flat black are laid out and all shot the same time.

In the case of my 67 model I did the body, hood, interior, dash, seats....all in 1 shot, then went back over the body in clear coat.

Then I did the chassis, roll cage, steering wheel, v belt and both seats in flat black all in one shot, then went back over the cage with enamel gloss coat (for a super shiny appearance) and did the seats and steering wheel in laquer gloss coat (for a semi-shiny appearance).

david 396, Yeah the 65 is a 4x4, a pic is in my sig, All my friends got into 4x's so I just built the elco.

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tes/tes4677.htm nice cars guys
Thanks.

Ready for final assembly:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc34b3127cceb2586609b09100000026109IZMWTVw0I

Notice the tailights are totally wrong for either a 67 or 66.

yeah those are custom tail lights. I ended up buying a 2nd '67 model that had the original tail lamps to come with it, and that's what's going on the ass end of my car.

The 2nd model is the California Custom 67 Chevelle, it's still avaliable, and it's usually painted black/red on the front.

Well, I give myself a C+. It's a 2 footer. These things take some practice. And patience.

I know why you big block guys are always dealing with fitment issues. The motor mounts didn't line up, the headers hit the crossmembers, the distributor hit the firewall, the thermostat housing hit the carb...

I'm no body man. All the fingerprints in the flat black primer make it look like a tough street racer.

And I lost one of the damn taillights in the carpet.

But it was a fun distraction.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc36b3127cceb27a023fc16d00000026109IZMWTVw0I

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc36b3127cceb27a02edc1bf00000026109IZMWTVw0I

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc36b3127cceb27a03c4003e00000026109IZMWTVw0I

http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b7cc36b3127cceb27a004cc11f00000026109IZMWTVw0I

Looks good from here. Whats it do in the 1/4?