i installed new coil springs, purchased at napa, on my 68 chevelle and the front end sits too high.i double checked the napa part number and it is the correct spring for my car.i looked into buying lowering springs but don`t know if thats the right way to solve the problem since the car isn`t at the proper ride height to begin with.any suggestions?its a small block non a/c car

lop off 1/2 a coil. It's not rocket science.
:beers:

Give it a month to settle in.

The 40 year old springs made it sit lower because of the age causing it to sag somewhat, and the new springs after a month or so should still be slightly higher.

If its that high, they arent going to settle that much. I say cut some coil off. Start with a half coil and see if you like it. It will make it a little stiffer ride, which is a good thing as stock was way to soft anyway.

i installed new coil springs, purchased at napa, on my 68 chevelle and the front end sits too high.i double checked the napa part number and it is the correct spring for my car.i looked into buying lowering springs but don`t know if thats the right way to solve the problem since the car isn`t at the proper ride height to begin with.any suggestions?its a small block non a/c car

did you make sure to wait till the car was on the ground to torqe down your control arms?

if you torqe them while its up in the air and the arms are fully extended, it tends to make the car sit high.

put the front wheels up on ramps so they are supported, then loosen the front upper and lower control arm bolts- bounce the car a few times, then torqe them back down.

Might help drop it down an inch or so without cutting anything.

I just went through the same thing. Take it from exp. Leave the springs you have in now and drive the car for a month and see if it settles than make a decision, because every time the ride height changes you should get the front end aligned. If it still sits to high then I would lop of a half a coil or more.

What Ben said......plus.....give it some time. You can always cut them off. You can't put it back on.

"did you make sure to wait till the car was on the ground to torqe down your control arms?"

okay, this is a myth that needs to be put to bed. this makes no difference i promise you; or at least it won't after you hit your first dip in the road. my experience is that front coils will settle about 1/2" after you've drivin it for a while. if you are way high, you can go several routes, from getting custom made springs, trying a different set of stock springs, to cutting. i don't think cutting is a good idea, but people do it.

http://www.itsawarzone.com/Chevelle/pages/100_7073_JPG.htm

I think my 69 sits a little high in the front. I love the way it sits.

If its higher then the back maybe you need back springs as well.

"did you make sure to wait till the car was on the ground to torqe down your control arms?"

okay, this is a myth that needs to be put to bed. this makes no difference i promise you; or at least it won't after you hit your first dip in the road.

I totally agree, if the suspension binded that bad, it wouldn't work. Unfortunately, I dont feel like arguing with people about it. Also, GM put it in their manual for some reason, its definitely NOT true. :noway:

thanks everyone.fishhead ,i like the way your car sits ,if mine settles down to that i would be happy

I totally agree, if the suspension binded that bad, it wouldn't work. Unfortunately, I dont feel like arguing with people about it. Also, GM put it in their manual for some reason, its definitely NOT true. :noway:

The reason to tighten the control arm bushings with weight on the suspension has nothing to do with ride height. The rubber bushings will always have a twist on them if they are tightened with the wheels off the ground. By tightening the bolts with the wheels on the ground puts the bushings in a more relaxed state so that suspension movement doesn't cause more twist on the bushing than needed. Therefore the bushings will last longer.
Paul

"did you make sure to wait till the car was on the ground to torqe down your control arms?"

okay, this is a myth that needs to be put to bed. this makes no difference i promise you; or at least it won't after you hit your first dip in the road.
Wrong. Not a myth.
I totally agree, if the suspension binded that bad, it wouldn't work. Unfortunately, I dont feel like arguing with people about it. Also, GM put it in their manual for some reason, its definitely NOT true. :noway:
Wrong. It definitely IS true. That's why it's in the manual.

The reason to tighten the control arm bushings with weight on the suspension has nothing to do with ride height. The rubber bushings will always have a twist on them if they are tightened with the wheels off the ground. By tightening the bolts with the wheels on the ground puts the bushings in a more relaxed state so that suspension movement doesn't cause more twist on the bushing than needed. Therefore the bushings will last longer.
Paul
Mostly correct. Rubber bushings are a "sandwich"; the rubber is glued (bonded) to both the inner metal sleeve and the outer metal shell. The shell is a press fit in the control arm, so the shell rotates as the control arm moves. The inner sleeve is locked to the vehicle framework by the center bolt used to torque the bushings. Therefore, the rubber bushings are torsionally twisted as the suspension moves. At "normal" ride height, you want NO twist in the rubber bushings. Therefore you have minimum twist in both directions as the suspension moves up 'n' down over bumps and potholes. The alternative--torquing the rubber bushings with the suspension at full droop--means the bushings are neutral with the wheels hanging down, at full design twist at normal ride height, and dramatically over-stressed when the wheels hit a bump. Doesn't take long for the rubber to tear free of the shell or the sleeve--and then the bushing is junk.

Some older English cars and some heavy-duty trucks use a big rubber bushing arrangement INSTEAD of a metal spring; I think their trade name was "Torsilastic", a combination of Torsion and Elastic. Where this applies to our Chevelles, is that if you torque the bushings at full droop, it means the twisted rubber would ADD to the spring in lifting the vehicle. So if the vehicle ride height drops significantly after a month--it's probably your indication that you've ripped the rubber bonding. Quality springs DON'T DROOP in the first month...

Note that this does NOT APPLY to polyurethane bushings, which are not bonded to the inner sleeve and outer shell. The poly bushings aren't torsionally twisted--they are just a bearing surface for the outer shell and/or the inner sleeve to rotate on--which is why you grease them during assembly. It's also one of my reasons for never using a rubber bushing if I can find a polyurethane replacement. Others will disagree.

Wrong. Not a myth.

Wrong. It definitely IS true. That's why it's in the manual.


Mostly correct. Rubber bushings are a "sandwich"; the rubber is glued (bonded) to both the inner metal sleeve and the outer metal shell. The shell is a press fit in the control arm, so the shell rotates as the control arm moves. The inner sleeve is locked to the vehicle framework by the center bolt used to torque the bushings. Therefore, the rubber bushings are torsionally twisted as the suspension moves. At "normal" ride height, you want NO twist in the rubber bushings. Therefore you have minimum twist in both directions as the suspension moves up 'n' down over bumps and potholes. The alternative--torquing the rubber bushings with the suspension at full droop--means the bushings are neutral with the wheels hanging down, at full design twist at normal ride height, and dramatically over-stressed when the wheels hit a bump. Doesn't take long for the rubber to tear free of the shell or the sleeve--and then the bushing is junk.

Some older English cars and some heavy-duty trucks use a big rubber bushing arrangement INSTEAD of a metal spring; I think their trade name was "Torsilastic", a combination of Torsion and Elastic. Where this applies to our Chevelles, is that if you torque the bushings at full droop, it means the twisted rubber would ADD to the spring in lifting the vehicle. So if the vehicle ride height drops significantly after a month--it's probably your indication that you've ripped the rubber bonding. Quality springs DON'T DROOP in the first month...

Note that this does NOT APPLY to polyurethane bushings, which are not bonded to the inner sleeve and outer shell. The poly bushings aren't torsionally twisted--they are just a bearing surface for the outer shell and/or the inner sleeve to rotate on--which is why you grease them during assembly. It's also one of my reasons for never using a rubber bushing if I can find a polyurethane replacement. Others will disagree.


I stand corrected. I didnt realize a rubber bushing had the center sleeve bonded to the rubber. Why are they bonded when polys dont need to be? What would they be ruined if the bond broke?

Ahsom69 advice is right on. It will make your stance higher if you assembled and torqued everything with the tires off the ground .

Are your spring ends fitting in the A arm groves correctly (very important). Measure your old spring height vs your new spring height so you have an idea how much the new spring affect your new height.