Well, I am installing new intake, carb, and valve covers, and am under budget. I was just wondering what kind of torque wrenches cover this application? Size, clicker, or guage?

Tanx Guys
Steve

I torque EVERYTHING. After years of pulling out threads and bending $hip.
you learn, from the top of my head, intake 30 Ft. Lbs, Exhaust 30-35
Stock 70 SS wheels 65.
A 3/8" Ft. Lbs. and a 1/4" In. Lbs. For most of the work. For an engine rebuild add a 1/2" torque wrench.
Yes you can do without, Most guys can get it close. Most items that have torque specs. have it for a REASON. I and others have overtightened many fasteners, with some good and some bad results.
Remember this- " You never have time to do it right, But you will find time to do it over "
My Two Cents--- Bob

A good click style ft. lb. torque wrench is perfect. Sears sells one that is nice.

I personally do not like the clicker torque wrench. The accurately rate on those clicker and electronic and dial is 10%. The best torque wrench is a flat beam. The accurately rate in those flat beam is 2%. Most miltary uses the flat beam because it don't have any moving part to to give any false reading.
I have see clicker lie and beaking bolts. I did check a snap on clicker for a customer and the setting on 50 LBS and it clicked at 70 LBS so becareful when using the clicker torque wrench.

If you buy a torque wrench where the handle turns to set the torque, make certain the handle is knurled metal and not plastic. Years back I bought a Craftsman torque wrench with a plastic handle you would use to set the torque. The wrench came with a 12 month warranty and sure enough on the thirteenth month that plastic handle broke.

I have a 1/2" drive Craftsman clicker in ft. lbs. and a small 1/4" drive clicker in inch lbs. for lower-torque items like rear-end covers, valve covers, etc.

OK, 3/8 and 1/4. Tanx. I tend to agree on the flat beam. I have used clickers, and always thought they read low.

Seems Summit only has 1/2 inch drive. Gotta go back an look.

Appreciate the input gentlemen, and have a good day.

Steve

If you buy a clicker type always remember to return it to zero when you are done with it. If you leave it set to a torque it will affect the calibration of the wrench.
Bill

I personally do not like the clicker torque wrench. The accurately rate on those clicker and electronic and dial is 10%. The best torque wrench is a flat beam. The accurately rate in those flat beam is 2%. Most miltary uses the flat beam because it don't have any moving part to to give any false reading.
I have see clicker lie and beaking bolts. I did check a snap on clicker for a customer and the setting on 50 LBS and it clicked at 70 LBS so becareful when using the clicker torque wrench.

I use to do torque wrench calibration checks and found similar results. The click type had a bigger percentage of error and the settings over time might drift from the actual reading. The bending beam wrenches had less error and tended to stay dead on. The $30 Sears bending beam I have is consistently more accurate than the high dollar Snap On and Proto that my company uses.

How do you read it and torque something at the same time, alone that is?

I don't doubt you found some error on them, but then if several people are using one, they don't take the care somebody working home alone as a hobbist would do.

Rob

I had two, 1/2" clicker-type torque wrenches calibrated. One was a Snap-On, the other a Penncraft which looks very much like the Snap-On. The most they were each off was two pounds consistently. The Snap-On one was left out in the garage year round with cold winters and hot summers, and the Penncraft was always kept inside except when needed. These wrenches are probably 30 years old.

The click type had a bigger percentage of error and the settings over time might drift from the actual reading. The bending beam wrenches had less error and tended to stay dead on. The $30 Sears bending beam I have is consistently more accurate than the high dollar Snap On and Proto that my company uses.

How do you read it and torque something at the same time, alone that is?

I don't doubt you found some error on them, but then if several people are using one, they don't take the care somebody working home alone as a hobbist would do.

Rob
I agree that the bending-beam style torque wrenches will tend to be the most accurate mechanism. What hasn't been mentioned is that those bending-beam wrenches almost universally have 1) NO ratchet head, so they're a pain in the tuckus to use; and 2) the handle is on a pivot, and you MUST not let the handle pivot all the way in so the handle ends touch the metal beam, or all accuracy for that torque pull has been lost; so again those wrenches are a pain in the tuckus to use. Then there's the mess you get into when/if you are torquing to very high values, and with a multitude of fasteners--your arm gets so worn out that you can't make a nice, steady pull--and the pointer/scale becomes impossible to read--so AGAIN that style wrench is a pain in the tuckus to use. Put another way: the torque wrench may be inherently more accurate; but operator error goes OFF THE CHART by comparison to the click-style or other positive-indicating styles of torque wrench.

I use a click-type (3% accuracy; Mac or Snap-On) for all torquing; and a beam style for all torque CHECKING of previously-assembled joints--I can read the dial indicator as the fastener breaks free to do an educated estimate of the tightness of the fastener.

Go to AutoZone and use there loan a tool. It does not cost anything if you return it.

Put another way: the torque wrench may be inherently more accurate; but operator error goes OFF THE CHART by comparison to the click-style or other positive-indicating styles of torque wrench.

Schurkey, thanks for the input. I was going to ask for a torque wrench for Christmas (can I say that;)), so I was following this thread closely. I had figured on asking for the click style, but this thread was making me question that in favor of a beam style wrench. Your advice makes sense to me, so I will go back to my original thinking unless someone can make a really good arguement against it.

I've had both types, I gave the beam type to one of my boys, its just to hard to read it and put any muster on it at the same time, plus I don't think the beam type is going to hold its accuracy much better then the click. How does the beam type work at 0 degrees or 90 degrees temperature, does it matter, just asking.

In order to read the beam type, you should be looking directly above it, I guess if a guy was an arm wrestling type, he could muscle it and not have to lean into it.:) Do they make the beam type in inch lbs.

Rob

Then there's the mess you get into when/if you are torquing to very high values, and with a multitude of fasteners--your arm gets so worn out that you can't make a nice, steady pull--and the pointer/scale becomes impossible to read--so AGAIN that style wrench is a pain in the tuckus to use. Put another way: the torque wrench may be inherently more accurate; but operator error goes OFF THE CHART by comparison to the click-style or other positive-indicating styles of torque wrench.



Assuming the same length of wrench the physical pull of both type wrenches will be the same for the same torque value.

The same nice steady pull technique needed when using a bending beam is also needed when using the click type for the torque values to be accurate. Just because it clicks doesn't in it self mean the torque value was correct.

It is easier for a operator of a click type wrench to become lax in the correct holding and operation of a click type wrench. The bending beam operator tends to be more deliberate with its operation and not so herky jerky as some that use the click type.

Yep, I have broke a few bolt heads off and screwed up threads with my 1/2" clicker style wrench... Maybe it was misuse - who knows! But it has over torqued bolts before.

Never broke a bolt head or messed up threads with my 3/8" bending style - but I do agree it's pain in the butt to read the torque and pull the wrench at the same time.

Do they make the beam type in inch lbs.

Rob

Someone does or at least did at one time because I own one.


I have a clicker 3/8" drive Craftsman I've had for nearly 30 years and a 1/2" drive Snap On I inherited from my uncle. Both work great and are treated gently and always returned to zero when I'm done. Anyone who has turned wrenches for any length of time can "feel" the torque to some extent and that being said I'd have to say neither of my wrenches seem to be falling out of calibration and have been consistent over the years. Are they perfectly in calibration? Probably not, probably never were from the beginning, but the biggest point of fastener torque settings is to get all the associated fasteners torqued EQUALLY within a given range. Any decent torque wrench should be able to do that.

A clicker is probably sufficient for about 95% of us who are hobbiests and who won't be using the wrench on a daily basis. Take care of it and it will take care of you. I've always felt Craftsman made a very nice torque wrench for a reasonable price. Stay away from the battery powered digital readout versions and just go for the mechanical clicker wrench and you'll be just fine.

but the biggest point of fastener torque settings is to get all the associated fasteners torqued EQUALLY within a given range. Any decent torque wrench should be able to do that.



Excellent point you brought out here Rich.

Rob

Assuming the same length of wrench the physical pull of both type wrenches will be the same for the same torque value.

The same nice steady pull technique needed when using a bending beam is also needed when using the click type for the torque values to be accurate. Just because it clicks doesn't in it self mean the torque value was correct.
I agree--but with a qualifier.

The operator of the bending-beam wrench not only has to pull nice 'n' steady, but he also has to be in a position to read the indicator, AND from directly above so as not to induce parallax error. For me, that means massive reliance on biceps. And when MY biceps get tired from pulling high torque on dozens of fasteners, they get shaky. In combination with the springy action of the bending beam wrench, the thing shakes so bad as to be frightening.

By comparison, most other positive-indicating torque wrenches don't rely on handle position and operator position for accuracy. It's lots easier, 'cause you can use other muscles besides biceps. You don't have to look at the wrench from directly above it, to use it properly.

I quit using bending beam torque wrenches to torque fasteners in the mid-'80s.

It is easier for a operator of a click type wrench to become lax in the correct holding and operation of a click type wrench. The bending beam operator tends to be more deliberate with its operation and not so herky jerky as some that use the click type.
I disagree, in that if we turn around what you're saying is that the operator has to be more careful in the use of the bending-beam style. It's easier to make errors on the bending beam style. A click-type is just plain easier to use.

The biggest problem with a click-type wrench--aside from the very real potential to go out-of-calibration; and the use of the wrench outside of it's most linear range--is that the operator doesn't release torque quickly enough when the thing clicks. Put another way--the wrench clicks but the operator continues pulling on it and adds extra (unwanted) torque to the fastener.

I've had both types, I gave the beam type to one of my boys, its just to hard to read it and put any muster on it at the same time, plus I don't think the beam type is going to hold its accuracy much better then the click. How does the beam type work at 0 degrees or 90 degrees temperature, does it matter, just asking.

In order to read the beam type, you should be looking directly above it, I guess if a guy was an arm wrestling type, he could muscle it and not have to lean into it.:) Do they make the beam type in inch lbs.

Rob

They make beam type in 1/4" drive. Search on hand tool suppliers, etc. McMaster-Carr, etc.

So the beam type just depends on the physical properties of the steel beam. Assume its calibrated OK when new, whats to go out of adjustment or calibration? Nothing, unless you bend it far enough to exceed the elastic limit or heat it up enough to undo the heat treatment. Compare to clickers where you have to release the tension and be sure not to twist it too far. What kind of mechanism is inside the handle there anyway? And dial indicator types...how is the bending moment converted into a dial reading? Any kind of delicate movement there? I'll take the beam type, but i have the others for those situations where I'm standing on my head or can't get a good look at the scale through my bifocals.

Just my $0.02

Get both and verify/calibrate the clicker with the beam prior to use.

Or get one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/TORQUE-WRENCH-CALIBRATOR-MODEL-221_W0QQitemZ200174507144QQihZ010QQcategoryZ25399Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Get both and verify/calibrate the clicker with the beam prior to use.

Or get one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/TORQUE-WRENCH-CALIBRATOR-MODEL-221_W0QQitemZ200174507144QQihZ010QQcategoryZ25399Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
200 inch pounds isn't going to do much good for most automotive use. 200 ft/lbs would be a terrific asset--I wish I had one.

200 inch pounds isn't going to do much good for most automotive use. 200 ft/lbs would be a terrific asset--I wish I had one.

In/lbs are often used in transmissions as well as differential pinion pre load.

i'm gonna have to dig out the leaflet that came with my recent craftsman clicker torque wrench.....i swear it said to leave it set at 20#'s when not in use....not at zero.....hmmm

i'm gonna have to dig out the leaflet that came with my recent craftsman clicker torque wrench.....i swear it said to leave it set at 20#'s when not in use....not at zero.....hmmm

20 is probably its lowest setting. Many torque wrenches start from 20 - 150 ft. lbs. or something like that. So you just set it to the lowest setting every time when your done with it.

If your on a budjet, I'd skip buying a torque wrench to install those items IMHO. I torque the bottom end and the heads. The rest I just bolt on.

I agree that the bending-beam style torque wrenches will tend to be the most accurate mechanism. What hasn't been mentioned is that those bending-beam wrenches almost universally have 1) NO ratchet head, so they're a pain in the tuckus to use; and 2) the handle is on a pivot, and you MUST not let the handle pivot all the way in so the handle ends touch the metal beam, or all accuracy for that torque pull has been lost; so again those wrenches are a pain in the tuckus to use. Then there's the mess you get into when/if you are torquing to very high values, and with a multitude of fasteners--your arm gets so worn out that you can't make a nice, steady pull--and the pointer/scale becomes impossible to read--so AGAIN that style wrench is a pain in the tuckus to use. Put another way: the torque wrench may be inherently more accurate; but operator error goes OFF THE CHART by comparison to the click-style or other positive-indicating styles of torque wrench.

I use a click-type (3% accuracy; Mac or Snap-On) for all torquing; and a beam style for all torque CHECKING of previously-assembled joints--I can read the dial indicator as the fastener breaks free to do an educated estimate of the tightness of the fastener.

I TOTALLY agree with this post.... The other thing to keep in mind is that you need to have a quick, smooth pull to try to minimize the effects of friction when you torque something, that's tough to do without a clicker IMHO...