Ok well i bought one of those ministarters from ebay from dbelectronics and i wanted to see what you guys thought about this.The starter is not the same with ones with the R or S connections but only one that has the ignition connected to it.Now the guy at db said that i would not need the wire from the coil to the starter (I am running points) and that i can run without it.Is he correct?

Depends. With a points distributor the coil is getting around 9v while running through the resistance wire. During starting it gets a full 12v from the wire that goes to the starter. If you have a strong battery and the new starter doesn't draw as much current you may be ok. They do sell a diode and wire kit that will connect the coil to the starter. The diode lets the coil get 12v while cranking but keeps the coil from trying to feed the starter after you release the key.

I believe since your running stock points setup you would still need the wire from starter to dist to supply 12volts to coil for ign when cranking.

Then when the motor fires & key is released the ign sw now sends approx 8-9 volts to coil/points to resume normal ign voltage for stock points setup.

If you dont use the 12v wire from the starter to dist for power when cranking i think the motor will actually fire . But thats only after you get the motor cranking & then quickly let off the ig sw dropping it back to the normal run postion where the 8-9volts is present and then the motor will fire just before it stops spinning over from just before you relaesed the ign sw.(PHEW!!!)

But correct me if i am wrong on that one.

Scott

if the motor is in a good state of tune (good compression and well tuned carb), then you don't need that wire.

You can also throw a relay in there for starting voltage if needed.

I believe since your running stock points setup you would still need the wire from starter to dist to supply 12volts to coil for ign when cranking.

Then when the motor fires & key is released the ign sw now sends approx 8-9 volts to coil/points to resume normal ign voltage for stock points setup.

If you dont use the 12v wire from the starter to dist for power when cranking i think the motor will actually fire . But thats only after you get the motor cranking & then quickly let off the ig sw dropping it back to the normal run postion where the 8-9volts is present and then the motor will fire just before it stops spinning over from just before you relaesed the ign sw.(PHEW!!!)

But correct me if i am wrong on that one.

Scott


Scott, I think on some cars the resistance wire is only 'hot' when key is in run, what you're describing. I'm pretty sure on a 70 it should be hot during start and run. So if his battery is in good condition and the mini starter doesn't draw too much current, which they're not supposed to, it will probably be ok. Problem is when battery is weak, cold weather, etc. starting may be marginal. I would say try it and see how it works. If there are problems add the diode and wire from coil to starter, here is a link. Jeg's sells the wire/diode. You can use with any starter.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54624&highlight=diode

Doesnt work in all cases without the staarter to coil 12v wire.

Case in point,my friendes 70 ss 396 w/ headers burned/fried the starter to coil wire and even thought the starter was in good cond as was the new battery and also new 63 amp alt he still had issues starting it with stock points without 12v sfrom the starter,would fire sometimes and not other times.

I had to hook up a temp 12v push button source so he could just tap it as motor was spiinning over the get it to fire then release the button and key and all was fine.

He used thet setup untill for a few wks untill we had time to run a new wire thru the correct route from starter to coil.

Scott

I believe my DB mini came with the “I” and “S” terminals. I can post a pic tonight.

The resistance wire terminal is hot in both “start” and “run” key positions. I have a 12ga wire for HEI in this position on my 70’.

You can always run a Ford remote solenoid, which has the “I” and “S”. Let me know if you go this route, I can link you to a post.

Alright so i guess to be on the safe side i should install that diode wire and it will solve my problems.I guess i'm the last one here running points because i could not find anything about points and ministarters.

Thanks to all for their help,it's great to get a second opinion or third or forth :) before jumping into a job...kind of like i did with my balancer.

edit:Just realized that the title should have read "coil to ministarter hookup" instead.

Alright so i guess to be on the safe side i should install that diode wire and it will solve my problems.I guess i'm the last one here running points because i could not find anything about points and ministarters.

Thanks to all for their help,it's great to get a second opinion or third or forth :) before jumping into a job...kind of like i did with my balancer.

edit:Just realized that the title should have read "coil to ministarter hookup" instead.

Nothing wrong with running points, they worked pretty darn good for quite a few years. Most people running points are trying to stay original and a mini-starter isn't. So it's not the most common combination.

I would go with the diode/wire setup just for piece of mind. Anytime your battery get's stressed, high heat, run down, car flooded, who knows, the extra voltage to the coil will come in handy. May get your car running when it wouldn't without that extra little wire. Oh, maybe that's why it was there in the first place.