I resized the big end on some 5.7 rods at school and 4 rods have small shadows by the parting line. My teacher says it's not a big deal as long as the bore is evenly round.. is he right?

Properly resized rods will show a tiny gap at the parting line. Improperly done ones will not. I don't know if that is what you are asking.

shadows? Are you talking about the witness? Are you talking about a part that was "missed" in the clean up.

Sometimes the rods are out alot at the parting line, and even after cutting and rehoning, when you bring them back to size they still show "holes" around the parting line, where the hone didnt hit.
Is this what you are refering to?

Originally posted by jr71c:
I resized the big end on some 5.7 rods at school and 4 rods have small shadows by the parting line. My teacher says it's not a big deal as long as the bore is evenly round.. is he right? =
Yes, your instructor is right.

A some resized rods will leave a shadow at the parting line area.
There is a way to get rid of it that production rod rebuilders use that I don't recommend.
They shim one side of the cap when grinding the surfaces which imparts a slight angle to the parting line & "bends" it in when you bolt the cap & rod together so the rod looks pretty when you hone it.
In my opinion this serves no useful purpose except a cosmetic one.

The Sunnen rep put it to me this way years ago..
The main purpose of that part of the rod is to keep the rest of it together. ;)

This part of the bearing area needs to be smaller than the vertical area to form a "wedge" of oil.

If you measure a rod bearing you will find it is noticeably thinner at the parting edges than the center.

Also many years ago,, we used to take stock rods & put a C clamp across the bolts before resizing & "bend" it in about 2 or 3 thou to make it larger in this area as at high rpm the rod stretches & this area would shrink causing the rod to grab the crank which will tend to ruin your day :D
This little "trick" would allow stock rods to run to well over 8500 without signs of the bearing touching at the parting line which you never want to see.

According to this How To Book it says there should be a bevel at the parting line so that you don't scrape the back of the bearing when you push it into place.
Is this not so Wolfman???

yes it should also have the sharp edge taken off.

I believe what Frank is referring to is an area where the hone missed which is not all that unusual.

Yup, the shadows are in places where material wasnt removed during honing. I'm glad it isn't a big deal. I was already dissapointed and about to get rid of them. I resized the bores to 2.2250 All of the rods measure about 2.2252 by the parting lines. THANKS FOR THE HELP!- you guys are the best graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Mike,

That's quite a trick with the C-Clamp and rods!!

Ever hear of changing the V of the pistons by offset boring them all towards the outside of the block??

Just curious, that's all b/c I haven't but have thought of it and if anything would be gained??

Kinda like swapping pistons side to side to change the piston offset deal for a better rod angle..

pdq67

Originally posted by pdq67:
Mike,

That's quite a trick with the C-Clamp and rods!!

Ever hear of changing the V of the pistons by offset boring them all towards the outside of the block??

Just curious, that's all b/c I haven't but have thought of it and if anything would be gained??

Kinda like swapping pistons side to side to change the piston offset deal for a better rod angle..

pdq67 =
Yeah, I wish I could take credit for the "C" clamp idea but I learned it about 30 years ago from a gentleman I drove for that has probably forgotten more about small blocks than most of us will ever know ;)

On the boring thing,, no but I can't see it doing anything good & causing a number of small problems one being the valve notches & two you would actually slightly increase the rod angle on one bank while decreasing it on the other.

That's what I thought about the V thing and thanks for the come back Mike..

Please carry on everybody..

pdq67