It was really hot here 95+ yesterday and we only got in 2 Time trials last night before the "Monsoon" Thunderstormns hit. I am really heating up my rotors when stopping after a 1/4 mile blast especially on hot days and I always run to the second turnoff to give them at least a chance of not warping the rotors.

Since My Monte uses the same exact brake parts as a Chevelle. I would appreciate any input as to what others may have done to improve their braking capabilities.

Thicker better heat dissipating rotors?

Please don't tell me to install rear disc brakes, I like the safety factor of OEM back there and those Wildwood Kits Are just not heavy duty enough for street duty on my land barge.

My first time down the track on stock brakes I about p in my pants the braking was so poor stopping fairly fast Camaro. By next race I has popped in some Wilwood Polymatrix brake pads and my braking was transformed to world class! Goodluck! graemlins/waving.gif

Originally posted by blazerbob:
My first time down the track on stock brakes I about p in my pants the braking was so poor stopping fairly fast Camaro. By next race I has popped in some Wilwood Polymatrix brake pads and my braking was transformed to world class! Goodluck! graemlins/waving.gif Thanks for the reply, I am guessing you have stock disc brakes and just installed the Wilwood brake pads?

I'll speak out of my a** here ... but I seem to remember that the Corvette used thicker rotors. May be some benefit there, if you could get them to work?

The other thing is my Raybestos Brute Stop rotors appear a whole lot better made than the standard AutoZone replacements.

And, also ... Praise Dyno's cryo treatment would help the issue.

It's also easy to convert to larger drums in the rear (if Monte's didn't already).

Lots of options that cost money, but definitely the Wilwood drag's are not intended for a street vehicle. Though I'm sure all those companies make a quality brake system for a street vehicle.

Neal

I'd do a few simple things:

Praise dyno if you can afford it.
Slotted (not drilled) front rotors.
Better pads & shoes.
Change your fluid to synthetic or at a minimum a complete flush with new fluid.

Put a shoot on it Tom.... :eek: :eek: :eek:

Tom

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/David_Pozzi/cheap_big_brakes.htm

check this out, it involves swapping to a 70s corvette rotor which is slightly larger and much thicker, and a truck caliper. i believe that someone here the posts regularly in the brake forum has done this swap in the past. i did a search and didnt come up with anything so you may post in there or do a search over at www.pro-touring.com (http://www.pro-touring.com) in the brake forums.

Originally posted by mc71454:
...on my land barge. Just got a mental picture of you "droppin' anchor."

There has been a ton of discussion on the CBB conversion here in our Brakes and Suspension forum.

Run a search there and you'll get lots of information.

I know its outside of alot of peoples price ranges, but the baer track system has turned my velle into a stopping monster.. it flat out scares people when I stop at max blast.
But, for what its worth, a thicker rotor that is vented (or drilled, they can crack but not as often as people think, as far as my experience goes) will dissipate heat better. the '79 GMC c1500? (I forget the model, but its is NOT a pickup truck) I used to drive had non-slotted, just 1.25" wide rotors with dual piston calipers that wouldn't get fussy at all.
If there is some swap towards a wider rotor, more than one piston caliper swap, then do that. The front brakes do 70-80% of the work, the rear don't really count for all intents and purposes.
If at any minimum make sure you don't (and this is my non-technical term) overheat and "glaze" the rotors/pads and get stuck with a bum stock system.
I have driven cars that at night when I pull I the driveway the brakes will be shooting flames. They didn't last very long.
One more note on the baer system, and you may not even want to consider it because you need big wheels (but if you want to pony the cash, call them and talk.. they make great stuff) I cannot say enough good things about them. I could put a new corvette in my trunk if I hit the brakes hard enough (I suspect my BFG g-force KD's are at play here though..)

There must be some decent swap to a thicker (but not nesc. bigger circ. rotor) that someone can suggest.
the only reason I suggest a thicker rotor, but of the same "size" is that all the big trucks I have driven use essentially that system.. thick, but not huge, including an older mack 10 wheeler and a newer izuzu/chevy truck (depending on where you buy it).
on a quick note.. and not vendor bashing.. the wilwood stuff looks suitable for motorcycles and lighter.. but the "stainless steel brakes corp" or whatever stuff I see in all the magazines looks interesting.. never used it or seen it in person, but they look beefy enough..

hth..
matt
"why aliens steal our cows.." (best beef ad ever...)

This is a pricey option, but Hydroboost is awsome! greatly increases your braking power. I love mine, and they are a great company to do business with.

In addition to what others have said... consider a set of Hawk brake pads on the front, Hawk HPS is their street/track pad. Makes considerably more dust than stock pads and wears rotors faster, but also has noticebly better stopping power.

Originally posted by blaauboer:
Put a shoot on it Tom.... :eek: :eek: :eek: you mean a chute?....i hope tongue.gif ;)

i did some brake improvements to my z28 camaro and it seemed to make a world of difference and stopping is alot faster now.....

on the front i put on new rotors from oreilly's and put on semi metalic brake pads, i flushed the system and put in new brake fluid, installed new master cylinder, replaced the rubber hoses (they tend to flex more when old and rotted) on the back i bought two new sets of semi metalic brake shoes and put both (longer) primarys on (more grip) and i put on larger brake cylinders for more braking power, along with some alum. brake drums......

i know this is more basic then the high end stuff but it truly feels better and the car really slows down faster from the 1/4 mile track runs.........

i didnt spend alot of money just freshened everything up and added a few tricks in the mix to help out.........this is for a car thats weights 3900 lbs.......with a bbc in it.....

Call me fred flintstone but all I have on my 3900# chevelle are factory 11" disks from a 75 Ventura and the cheapest NAPA pads they have. On the rear I have Ford Torino drums and I use an adjustable proportioning valve and a manual M/C.

I have a heavy foot, but I can stop on most tracks without going on the grass from 150mph without the chute.

I was considering going to the puny wilwood medium duty front and rear brakes in an effort to save weight. I'm reading that they will overheat and warp - does anyone have first hand experience with this on a heavy car?

I had similar problems with my '69 Chevelle until I did the Caprice "tall spindle" conversion w/the 12" rotors. I used AGX pads, 200% better than stock Chevelle brakes.