I`m getting a 327 from a friend. It has a old Isky 280 hyd cam with 224@.050 and .465 lift on a 108 LSA. It has flat tops and I`m putting on a pair of 062 vortecs with a vortec rpm intake. Should I leave this cam in there or upgrade to something modern? This motor will be for a crusier/hotrod 50`s or 60`s chevy truck and will be geared to match the motor and same with the converter. The motor would probably run mid 13`s in my friends 65 chevelle with a older ZF6 6spd and 3.73`s. The 461`s need to be gone through so I figured I would just use the vortecs.

IMHO.... that is a bit 'light' for what you expect..... nice cam tho for a mild street car. I am sure there are others that will weigh in with better opinions than mine (more experience = better opinions)

IMHO.... that is a bit 'light' for what you expect..... nice cam tho for a mild street car. I am sure there are others that will weigh in with better opinions than mine (more experience = better opinions)


what do you mean "a bit light"?

If you're just cruising around, I'd keep the Isky cam.

you do know that you have too cut the valve guides or you'll never get that cam to work with those heads .....

you do know that you have too cut the valve guides or you'll never get that cam to work with those heads .....

I read .465" lift. Did you see something I didn't.

I ran a 327 for 11 years in my Chevelle. Ran 13.0s. I tried several cams in this same range. The comp 280 hydrualic made the most power and it was substantial over Crane, Isky, and Sig Erson. It even made more power than a Comp 280 Solid. Go Figure. The car was a daily driver back then and I ran 461 heads.

you do know that you have too cut the valve guides or you'll never get that cam to work with those heads .....


Yes I know. I`m going to buy the guide cutter from comp when i`m ready to rebuild the heads.

onovakind67, yes it`s going o be a cruiser but i still want to get the most power from it i can. I heard the vortecs like a split pattern cam over a single pattern and cam design has come a long way since this Isky was made. THey don`t even make the standard 280 hyd anymore, only the 280 mega.

onovakind67, yes it`s going o be a cruiser but i still want to get the most power from it i can. I heard the vortecs like a split pattern cam over a single pattern and cam design has come a long way since this Isky was made. THey don`t even make the standard 280 hyd anymore, only the 280 mega.

Power is torque, that all your engine will produce. If you are making more torque in the rpm range you are using, you will be much better off. We've run 'small' single pattern cams in all our 327 motors and the performance was quite good. Isky seems to think that single pattern is the way to go, as did Camcraft.

Most stock camshafts from American production V8, V6 and 4 cylinder engines manufactured today are ground with the longer exhaust lobe duration. Or, another way of looking at this is that they are ground with shorter intake durations! The former embraces the viewpoint that either the Exhaust Ports or Exhaust Pipe system is somewhat restrictive, and is in need of an assist. The latter suggests that the intake system is rather efficient and cam timing can be trimmed back a bit with out much sacrifice in power, in order to maximize throttle response and cruising efficiency.

Take your pick here. There is no absolutely correct viewpoint - because both are probably true! In a stock engine running at conservative RPM levels, for the sake of overall efficiency, fuel economy and a quiet smooth running engine, this staggering of intake and exhaust duration is quite common and appropriate.

However, High Performance is another thing entirely. Change one factor, let's say in this case, the exhaust system (installing headers and larger pipes) and you have just negated in most cases, the need for that longer exhaust lobe. Now couple this change with a different intake system and camshaft and you have really scrambled the equation. But, wait just a moment. Why is it that so many people (racers & cam grinders alike) insist on running a cam with longer exhaust duration regardless of what equipment is employed? The answer is "habit". Most of them have been somewhat successful in doing it their way and will probably never change unless virtually forced by circumstances to do so.

Before we go any further however let's review what it actually is we are trying to do with an engine when we attempt to make more power. Our best result comes when we are cognizant of the fact that an engine is basically an air pump. We pump it in and out (although in a different form) and we have problems when one side or the other is restricted. Balance or the equilibrium or flow should be our objective, unless of course we are not trying to make more horsepower!

Example #1 (Oval track racing) Here, I have often observed that the most experienced drivers are those who are most likely to run a single pattern (equal on intake and exhaust duration) cam. Why? Because such cams always, I repeat always make more torque! These veterans have a more educated foot and greater experience in feathering the throttle in the corners. They can therefore, utilize the benefit of added torque, in the lower to mid RPM range, to their advantage.

Their counterparts, the younger drivers on the circuit, generally are not as experienced and may at times actually get "crossed up" in the corners especially with a lighter car or when they are learning the ropes. In their case, a longer exhaust duration is often the more appropriate choice. It will often help them to drive better, more "flat footed" if you will, without consequence. But please for the sake of accuracy, let us be truthful. The benefit comes from an actual bleeding off of low to mid range torque, which is always what happens when Exh. Duration is lengthened, not from any improvement. The improvement, (if any) would come because of an improvement in scavenging at the extreme upper end of the power curve and would usually be marginal at best. Yet the so-called "extra power" potential of a longer Exh. Duration cam is most often why they are touted - power most people are backing away from at the end of the strait away!

Example #2 (Drag Racing) At the drag strip it's a little different and I feel more honest. Here, racers have long enjoyed longer exhaust and longer durations across the board (If I may add specifically for the purpose of "killing" low-end torque) to keep the tires from too easily breaking lose. This has been successful and sometimes actually results in a slight increase in top end power - something you can actually use in drag racing since it is a full throttle endeavor through the lights. Keep in mind here though, it's quite possible that a longer duration cam overall would have done just as well or better. In other words if you needed that longer exhaust for top end, perhaps the intake could have benefited from such a lengthening as well.

One of my favorite expressions is how "The Drag Racing mentality has infiltrated the ranks of Oval Track". Many have crossed over and made the switch in the past 10-15 years and some have brought their preconceived notions about how to cam an engine with them. A few may actually read these concepts and if they do so will at least come away with a better understanding of what they are doing. On the other hand they also could find that this information might actually help their cars to run just a bit faster!

http://www.iskycams.com/techtips.html

There are lots of performance parts that have 'come a long way' since the 60's, are you looking into improving those? Exhaust science, pistons, ring configuration, lightweight rotating assemblies, crank case evacuation, etc?

I don`t have a problem running a single pattern cam. What I said was that I`ve heard the vortecs had a weak exhaust and would bennifit from a split pattern cam. I like Isky cams, ran them before, and this motor runs great the way it is and should run better just by putting the vortecs on. I was just wondering if anyone thought I should swap in a moden cam to match the modern heads.

you do know that you have too cut the valve guides or you'll never get that cam to work with those heads .....
That lift should be alright for Vortecs, that's why I would vote to leave it in there. If you're gonna cut the guides buy a bigger cam.

Here's an article in PHR about a 400+ HP vortec build. A couple of quotes:


There is little to criticize in the exhaust port form of the EQ iron heads. The nicely shaped ports blend cleanly into the machined seats, delivering 170 cfm through the comparably small 1.500-inch exhaust valves.....

By maximizing the torque production, we're also maximizing the horsepower the engine will deliver in its operating range. We had frequent PHR contributor David Vizard spec our cam, and he selected a custom COMP Cams hydraulic roller single-pattern grind, with 224 degrees duration (at .050) on the intake and exhaust lobes, and 0.352 inch lobe lift. David specified a relatively tight 108-degree lobe separation angle, which would serve to bring the torque on hard, and preserve cylinder pressure compared to a similar cam with a wider spread.......In fact, we questioned whether the 224 degrees of duration would allow the engine to make peak power anywhere near the 6,000-rpm range, an rpm capacity we know a 350-cube engine would require to make over 400 hp. When questioned, Vizard reassured us by stating confidently, "I've been speccing cams for well over 20 years, and haven't been wrong yet, but maybe I'm due."

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/chevrolet/smallblock/0611em_vortec_small_block/index.html

Here's an article in PHR about a 400+ HP vortec build. A couple of quotes:


There is little to criticize in the exhaust port form of the EQ iron heads. The nicely shaped ports blend cleanly into the machined seats, delivering 170 cfm through the comparably small 1.500-inch exhaust valves.....

By maximizing the torque production, we're also maximizing the horsepower the engine will deliver in its operating range. We had frequent PHR contributor David Vizard spec our cam, and he selected a custom COMP Cams hydraulic roller single-pattern grind, with 224 degrees duration (at .050) on the intake and exhaust lobes, and 0.352 inch lobe lift. David specified a relatively tight 108-degree lobe separation angle, which would serve to bring the torque on hard, and preserve cylinder pressure compared to a similar cam with a wider spread.......In fact, we questioned whether the 224 degrees of duration would allow the engine to make peak power anywhere near the 6,000-rpm range, an rpm capacity we know a 350-cube engine would require to make over 400 hp. When questioned, Vizard reassured us by stating confidently, "I've been speccing cams for well over 20 years, and haven't been wrong yet, but maybe I'm due."

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/enginemasters/articles/chevrolet/smallblock/0611em_vortec_small_block/index.html

Interesting article. looks like the cam I have will work fine but I think I will go with 1.6 rockers to get a little extra lift. I appreacieate the effort. Thanks.

That lift should be alright for Vortecs, that's why I would vote to leave it in there. If you're gonna cut the guides buy a bigger cam.

Yes this is true. As far as I know the Vortechs are good to about .470 lift and you should be good to go. I would run the Isky cam and stock Vortech heads. I think it will be a nice combo. :D

Yes this is true. As far as I know the Vortechs are good to about .470 lift and you should be good to go. I would run the Isky cam and stock Vortech heads. I think it will be a nice combo. :D


you don`t think running the 1.6 rockers would be a good idea? It`s my understanding that the vortecs have peak flow about .500 lift based on all of the charts I`ve found. I don`t mind cutting the guides, it`s a cheap tool and not a hard job to do anyway plus they need to be gone through so they`ll be apart anyway.

Interesting article. looks like the cam I have will work fine but I think I will go with 1.6 rockers to get a little extra lift. I appreacieate the effort. Thanks.

Just make sure that extra lift isn't a little too much for the heads...

Just make sure that extra lift isn't a little too much for the heads...

max lift would only be .496 with the 1.6 rockers and these heads seem to peak at about .500 lift so I think it would be just about right. All of the required clearances will be made.

ok I'm going to try to warn you one more time ...........Stock Vortec heads & springs are compatible with lifts up to .450 that's it GM performance parts recommendation !!! not a number I'm pulling out of thin air or heard someone say might work ....... If you don't want to beleive me call Scoggin-Dickey Parts center teck line !!1-800-456-0211

ok not here to start a pissin match but how does everyone offer advice on a cam with no gear ratio listed or trans or converter?

if hes got 273 gears and a powerglide what would we recomend him ....

ya know what im saying here

more info required for a better ballpark recomendation for a cam

Its a 327 and you want to cruse it how much? miles per year?
looking for good gas mileage too?
how much power do you want out of it and whats your goals for the engine/truck?
longevity and reliability and no maintenance?
or are you looking for a nasty idle and high rpm as a weekend warrior that you will take to the track a few times a year?

the only reason i ask is because you may want this thing to cruise down the highway 300 miles to grandmas house and someone might recommend a cam thats way out in left field.

you can make a 327 run like a stocker or you can rev it up an make alot of power

we made over 600hp about 5 years ago with a 327 solid roller cam ported iron eagle 220`s nothing crazy just revved it to about 8000 or so

ok I'm going to try to warn you one more time ...........Stock Vortec heads & springs are compatible with lifts up to .450 that's it GM performance parts recommendation !!! not a number I'm pulling out of thin air or heard someone say might work ....... If you don't want to beleive me call Scoggin-Dickey Parts center teck line !!1-800-456-0211


he is right the dirt track guys run these alot and you need to cut the guide boss so the springs dont hit on lift higher than 450, no biggie, machine shop can mill it down for you for around $100 or less

vortec heads, vortec rpm intake, 600 vacuum secondary carb th350 3000 stall 373 gears and your flyin

if we can make 450+ outta vortec heads and a 2 barrel think what it will run like on the street with a 4 barrel

a friend of mine just did a 1988 GTA Scoggin dickey lower intake for vortec heads, vortec heads, stock cam, injectoers the whole nine and the tpi low torque monster is going high 13`s on street tires at 101 mph

i was a lil disappointed but the owner says it drives great and is about 40hp up on the oem engine, we plan on adding a gmpp cam zz9 but will see he just added nitrous so im gonna run him on the bottle and me all motor :)

The problem with stock Vortec heads isn't only the springs.

It's THE VALVE GUIDES. Those things are HUGE. The bottom of the retainer smacks into the top of them at somewhere between .460" and .480" of lift depending on the the tolerance of the particular head.

I just don't see anything particularly "wrong" with the cam you've got now; especially not if the car has some gear (3.42 or better). Any particular "deficiency" you think might be correctable by changing it? Anything you don't like about it?

Vortec heads flow well at lower lifts; not a whole lot to be gained by upping the rocker ratio.

Even so, at .465" lift, I'd FOR SURE get the valve guides cut down; which will also let you run a spring with a damper, which the stock guides are also SO HUGE in their OD that a damper won't fit around them. And you MUST change the springs, because the stock ones are total garbage, barely even adequate for the weenie STOCK TRUCK cam those things come with. Remember, those things, in the trim they come in from the junkyard, are STOCK TRUCK heads; they ARE NOT "performance" heads in any manner way shape or form, except for the good intake port shape. They have heavy STOCK TRUCK valves, weak STOCK TRUCK springs, heavy STOCK TRUCK retainers, and so on. All of that needs to go away in your prep work.

They tend to favor cams with a bigger exhaust lobe, because they have all this terrific intake flow, but the same sucky stock exhaust flow as any other stock heads. With a little porting though, the imbalance can be made not so bad.

This is a little different than what you are considering but I found it interseting. http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=1961698029

ok I'm going to try to warn you one more time ...........Stock Vortec heads & springs are compatible with lifts up to .450 that's it GM performance parts recommendation !!! not a number I'm pulling out of thin air or heard someone say might work ....... If you don't want to beleive me call Scoggin-Dickey Parts center teck line !!1-800-456-0211


I never said I was going to use the stock springs. I will be changing them out so it will be ok. I also said I will be buying the comp guide cutter to machine the guides down to run a .531 seal and to get extra clearance for lift. These 2 steps together should be fine with what I`m planning.

dgrobles, I know 327`s pretty good. My last one ran low 12`s. this one is just going o be for a driver in a truck untill I can find another chevelle and build a motor based on the 4 bolt main 350 sitting in the corner. Gear and converter are unknown at this time since I haven`t found a truck yet but I can asure you that the gears and converter will be matched to the motor.

RB69SS396CONV, I don`t have a problem with the current cam and I don`t have a problem leaving it in there. I just thought that since I was putting modern heads on there I would consider putting a modern cam in there too, something like the voodoo 268. I have heard about the weak exhaust and thats why I was thinking about switching to a modern split pattern cam.

Ok Anthony ....... I didn't mean for it to sound like it did ....... there were a lot people giving advice saying it would work :noway: an I just wanted to make sure you didn't run into problems :)

I think the flow of the Vortecs will REALLY wake that cam up. Defintely run it! No questions! Plus, its broken in already, aint it! RUN IT! Seems spot on prefect for a nice street 327 WITH MILD GEARS! If the Vortecs get you close to 10:1, it'll build good torque as well.

Ok Anthony ....... I didn't mean for it to sound like it did ....... there were a lot people giving advice saying it would work :noway: an I just wanted to make sure you didn't run into problems :)


no problem, thanks for looking out.

427L88, yep already broke in. The lower end has less than 10k miles on it but the 461`s have bad guides so this is why I thought about running the vortecs. I think I`m going to run the cam thats in there. Everyone has given me great info and it seems that the Isky cam would be the best for it. Besides, it`s not like it`s going to be a drag car anyway so I should`nt be too worreid about going bigger. Thats what the other block is for.

run it and come back and tell us what you think o fit with the vortecs

the dirt track class runs 2 barrels and most of these guys are running vortec heads i have personally seen numerous dyno pulls with 2 barrels and vortecs making well over 400hp

good call on the vortecs

I was looking through a catalog the other day and spotted these heads i thikn they were MOTOWN SBC heads they were iron but were fairly inexpensive

anyone know about these?

dont wanna hi jack your thread just curious

niec meeting ya good luck with the vortec 327 :beers:

run it and come back and tell us what you think o fit with the vortecs

the dirt track class runs 2 barrels and most of these guys are running vortec heads i have personally seen numerous dyno pulls with 2 barrels and vortecs making well over 400hp

good call on the vortecs

I was looking through a catalog the other day and spotted these heads i thikn they were MOTOWN SBC heads they were iron but were fairly inexpensive

anyone know about these?

dont wanna hi jack your thread just curious

niec meeting ya good luck with the vortec 327 :beers:

I only paid $100 for the heads and aside from the mag and pressure test, I can do the machine work at work for nothing. I`m going to see if I can convince my buddy to let me do the head swap before we pull it from his car. He might be interested in seeing it as well.

Read here about Dirt's "Ghetto-Grind" to help on lift the cheap way!!

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56505

Arguably THE best Vortec thread there is on the web by me!!

pdq67

Read here about Dirt's "Ghetto-Grind" to help on lift the cheap way!!

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=56505

Arguably THE best Vortec thread there is on the web by me!!

pdq67


read that one already. I`m just going to buy the cutter and might even cut the retainers on the mill at work to get extra clearance. We have a full machine shop at work so I can get it all done for free.

Badrad's link points to the type of cam that I prefer for small CI street builds. 214-220 intake, 220-228 exhaust, 108-110 LDA, around .500" lift. As the article points out, this type of cam gives enough low end for gearing in the low 3's, good mid range, and top end that does not overwhelm hydralic lifters. This is a sensible choice for a REAL street engine in the 300"-350" range. The VooDoo that falls in this range would be my first choice.

This cam will need around 18* initial advance and a faster curve than stock, along with 1 1/2", long tube, 36"-40", headers to maximize it's potential in a 327. I have run 50" long headers (fenderwells) on 327's similar to this and gotten great street manners. All headers are about a foot too short for street engines.

This is a little different than what you are considering but I found it interseting. http://www.compcams.com/Community/Articles/Details.asp?ID=1961698029


I have read that article several times over the years. 327`s are my favorite motor so anytime there is a 327 hop up article I read it over and over. I even made a post about this very engine to see how legit the numbers were, can`t remember what the replies were though. I would love to try that comp roller with this vortec set up. Might be a possibility in the future.

I have read that article several times over the years. 327`s are my favorite motor so anytime there is a 327 hop up article I read it over and over. I even made a post about this very engine to see how legit the numbers were, can`t remember what the replies were though. I would love to try that comp roller with this vortec set up. Might be a possibility in the future.

One of the mags claimed 440 Ft Lbs from a roller cammed 327, and 500HP, some years ago. I think it had a Crane Track Roller, 250/260 duration, and a 2X4 tunnel ram. Could have been one of those West Coast dyno things, but the article badrad refers to isn't far from that. Then there is Joe Shermans 400HP 302 that is supposedly making similar numbers. All I know is, none of my stuff ever runs that well.

Original drivetrain (assuming it is a 4 speed and HD low geared rear end) and a solid lifter cam.. Zoom zoom!!! :D

I had an old 64 PU with the original drivetrain and a high winding 327, what a fun ride..

It is hard to drive a 327 and run fast, our car weighs a hair over 4,000 with driver and fuel,all steel 1970 chevelle with a 327.

You must twist the motor,run big torque converters,and alot of gear, example:
-We run 12.98:1 compression
-4,200rpm stall {which the track indicates it is too tight}
-5.38 rear gears
-To twist the motor you must run a higher flow head which means your gonna loose low end torque. {8,000rpm is normal for a roller 327 , 6500rpm for flat tappet hyd,solid up to 7,000-7,300}

we have ran 12.182 @110.04 so far with the converter too tight killing the 60' times.
Think small cam and heads, the bigger the head for the street use a step smaller cam,smaller the head use a hair bigger cam but then you need converter and gear. We run roller cams etc.

I would go with 220-224 intake duration, 226-230 exhaust duration on a 108 lobe sep if you have manual brakes, 110 if you have power brakes

It is hard to drive a 327 and run fast, our car weighs a hair over 4,000 with driver and fuel,all steel 1970 chevelle with a 327.

You must twist the motor,run big torque converters,and alot of gear, example:
-We run 12.98:1 compression
-4,200rpm stall {which the track indicates it is too tight}
-5.38 rear gears
-To twist the motor you must run a higher flow head which means your gonna loose low end torque. {8,000rpm is normal for a roller 327 , 6500rpm for flat tappet hyd,solid up to 7,000-7,300}

we have ran 12.182 @110.04 so far with the converter too tight killing the 60' times.
Think small cam and heads, the bigger the head for the street use a step smaller cam,smaller the head use a hair bigger cam but then you need converter and gear. We run roller cams etc.

I would go with 220-224 intake duration, 226-230 exhaust duration on a 108 lobe sep if you have manual brakes, 110 if you have power brakes


I already had a low 12 second pump gas 327 and it didn`t tke all the stuff you used but it was in a 65 chevelle thats a little lighter. I`m not even looking for track times at this point, just a fun motor thats going to get up and go when I hit the gas.

It`s not hard to make a 327 run hard, you just have to pick the right parts.

ss our exact weight is 4,080 pounds with driver and fuel. A 65 is probally 3,500 with driver and fuel. We have 11.80's in it if it will leave off the line, the converter is too tight and we are shifting the motor a little lower than we should, peak hp is at 7,800 with peak torque at 6,000rpm, it is not this motor that was on a dyno but one exactly the same but with aluminum heads. {same heads} We currently only have a 4,200rpm stall,our converter has since been reworked and it goes to 5,300-5,400 on the brake.

I`m not trying to knock your set up, I hope you don`t think I am. here is what my old set up was,

sj 327 .040 with Kb .100 dome pistons
block decked for .006" for a compression of 10.3:1
stock sj rods with ARP bolts
GM 041 heads 2.02/1.6 valves ported/polished and flowed on a bench
Schneider solid 284/288 248/254@.050 .530 lift on a 108 lsa
single plain intake with 750dp carb
th350 with a too small of a converter, would only footbrake to 2000rpms with 4.56 gears and 28x8 slicks

Ran a best of 12.18@113mph and ran on pump gas and was a daily driver with 3.08`s. Like I said, I`m no stranger to 327`s, they are my favorite small block. I honestly haven`t had one this mild so I wasn`t too sure what to run with the vortecs since I`ve never used them before either.

If it ran like that alot of people need that motor, super stock / la engine only run hair quicker than that and they make 576hp.

A 327 in a 68-72 chevelle with 13.5:1 comp, dart 200 heads ported with 6,200 stall and 5.38 gears only runs low 11's and thats a 3,700 pound race car. We have videos of it, 1.44 60' times. Not to mention this is a ladder bar car with two 660's, with the current 5 speed it runs 10.60's all day. Cams listed below

automatic cam 283/291 @.050 .680/.632 106 ls straight up {low 11's}
5 speed cam 288/294 @.050 .688/.660 108 ls straight up {10.60's}

Your car must work real well!!

If it ran like that alot of people need that motor, super stock / la engine only run hair quicker than that and they make 576hp.

A 327 in a 68-72 chevelle with 13.5:1 comp, dart 200 heads ported with 6,200 stall and 5.38 gears only runs low 11's and thats a 3,700 pound race car. We have videos of it, 1.44 60' times. Not to mention this is a ladder bar car with two 660's, with the current 5 speed it runs 10.60's all day. Cams listed below

automatic cam 283/291 @.050 .680/.632 106 ls straight up {low 11's}
5 speed cam 288/294 @.050 .688/.660 108 ls straight up {10.60's}

Your car must work real well!!

it did about 10 years ago. sold the car and the motor along time ago. This is my first motor since then. Just need to find a body to put it in.

What cam did you have in the engine when it ran low 12's? What trans and rear gear?

sj 327 .040 with Kb .100 dome pistons
block decked for .006" for a compression of 10.3:1
stock sj rods with ARP bolts
GM 041 heads 2.02/1.6 valves ported/polished and flowed on a bench
Schneider solid 284/288 248/254@.050 .530 lift on a 108 lsa
single plain intake with 750dp carb
th350 with a too small of a converter, would only footbrake to 2000rpms with 4.56 gears and 28x8 slicks


This was the set up. When I had 3.08`s it ran a best of 13.03@105mph with a peg leg and 26x8 slicks.

Just get the little sucker up about 10 to 1 CR. or a schosh more and go!!

And use a solid lifter cam b/c it will like to rpm!!

pdq67

He said he already had a 10:1 327 that ran low 12's with stock ported heads and a solid flat tappet cam in a chevelle on pump gas.

Super stock LA engine run 11.60-11.80's. They make 575hp in cars very close to his. They are roller motors with $5,000 in heads ported by super stock wizzard John Gulius from PA.

Just get the little sucker up about 10 to 1 CR. or a schosh more and go!!

And use a solid lifter cam b/c it will like to rpm!!

pdq67


Paul, thanks for the input but i don`t want to go solid for this motor. I have already decided to just leave the Isky hyd cam in there. This isn`t going to be a racer, just a fun driver.

tmnatr, how can those motors make 575hp yet only run 11.60-11.80`s? doesn`t add up to me? I thought super stock had to have a mostly stock motor, un ported heads and stock lift but any duration. Based on the mph and depending on the actual weight of the car we figure it made anywhere from 380-430hp. We never dynoed it but we should have. I built it when i was younger and didn`t have much extra money for dyno time. My buddy has the motor now but it`s in pieces. He`s planning a rebuild and I`ll see if I can talk him into having it dynoed.

The super stock heads cant be ported to later runner cc's but they can be ported to change runner shape but it must reatin factory cc's and valve size, these heads flow like much bigger heads and they have excellent velocity for torque.

A 3500-3800 pound car in general takes about 400hp at the rear to run low 12's,its proven is super stock,Which means with the converter in the automatic your looking at about an honest 450-500hp at the engine. With a stick trans you would need around 425-440hp at the motor.

A 327 just like ours runs .5 quicker with a stick because you dont have converter slippage etc.

We have 11.80's in the motor if we ever get the torque converter to hit right. In general the car lays down until about 30ft off the line,it leaves hard the first 5 feet or so then lays down about 30ft and picks back up. In general the 60' times are 1.68 and it still has the mph to run faster if we ever get the converter working

This sunday will tell, it is our last race.

The super stock heads cant be ported to later runner cc's but they can be ported to change runner shape but it must reatin factory cc's and valve size, these heads flow like much bigger heads and they have excellent velocity for torque.

A 3500-3800 pound car in general takes about 400hp at the rear to run low 12's,its proven is super stock,Which means with the converter in the automatic your looking at about an honest 450-500hp at the engine. With a stick trans you would need around 425-440hp at the motor.

A 327 just like ours runs .5 quicker with a stick because you dont have converter slippage etc.


Ok this doesn`t make sence to me. They can be ported to change the the shape but must retain the stock cc`s. Even if you just polish the runner it changes cc`s so how does porting them to change the shape not change them? I`ve also seen alot of info on the super stocks,i think it`s the right class, that have to run the factory rated hp and run reall good. Like a 220hp 283 running low 12`s with just gears converter and suspension. Is this the class your talking about? I only had $4000 into my motor and thats because I built it twice.

They weld the heads but when done they must retain factory cc's. Call a super stock head porter. That class is not fair.

It states stock cc heads for the engine with no porting, they are not porting but are changing the shape of the runner by welding them. $5,000 to do a set of good super stock heads

You can not polish them,they glass bead them and shot peen them to make them look stock after welding the ports to put the cc's where they have to be. It is a psin in the but and wallet

Psin was suppose to be "pain"

Typing error

Tony,

I hear you, but I ran the old -097 Duntov solid lifter cam in my old junk301 as my daily driver for quite a while fine!!

Please don't think a solid lifter cam is going to be a hassle b/c they are better now than in years gone by.

I came back and added this too!!!

"I figure a set of 180 bowl-blended heads will do nicely along w/ something like a Z-30 Isky Solid lifter cam IF you are up to about 11 to 1 CR.!!

You will be looking at like ALMOST a 500hp/327 uncorked w/ just headers and a good old 750 Holley on a single plane per D2k!!

You have to remember that GM made the little 327 just about dead-nuts RIGHT back then!!!

As always, jmho..."

My long gone Crippled Buddy Tom had a 375hp/327 FI engine in his '58 "Vette rag-top back in the mid '60's w/ no more than 2.5" pipe nipple dumps and the old Z-30 cam in it and I saw w/ 3.08's, 7,200 rpm late one Sat. night on the Hwy between La Plata, MO and Atlanta running like 160 to 170 and the sucker was still accelerating!!!

Tell me what a hopped up 327 will do!!

Like I said, GM got the little jewel darn near dead-nuts right to begin with!!

pdq67

Tony,

I hear you, but I ran the old -097 Duntov solid lifter cam in my old junk301 as my daily driver for quite a while fine!!

Please don't think a solid lifter cam is going to be a hassle b/c they are better now than in years gone by.

I came back and added this too!!!

"I figure a set of 180 bowl-blended heads will do nicely along w/ something like a Z-30 Isky Solid lifter cam IF you are up to about 11 to 1 CR.!!

You will be looking at like ALMOST a 500hp/327 uncorked w/ just headers and a good old 750 Holley on a single plane per D2k!!

You have to remember that GM made the little 327 just about dead-nuts RIGHT back then!!!

As always, jmho..."

My long gone Crippled Buddy Tom had a 375hp/327 FI engine in his '58 "Vette rag-top back in the mid '60's w/ no more than 2.5" pipe nipple dumps and the old Z-30 cam in it and I saw w/ 3.08's, 7,200 rpm late one Sat. night on the Hwy between La Plata, MO and Atlanta running like 160 to 170 and the sucker was still accelerating!!!

Tell me what a hopped up 327 will do!!

Like I said, GM got the little jewel darn near dead-nuts right to begin with!!

pdq67


I don`t have a problem running solids, I`ve used them before. It`s just that this application doesn`t need one. THe 327 I`m getting from my buddy already has a old Isky 280 hydraulic cam with 224@.050 and .465 lift on a 108lsa. They don`t make that cam anymore but it`s really close to the 270 mega. I`ve already got a pair of vortecs and a vortec rpm intake so that should wake it up quite a bit for what I`m looking for.