I'm slowly trying to get my 70's front end project done. When I go to get it aligned, is it possible to have the alignment specs "tweaked" for dragstrip purposes without sacrificing street driveability?

The car is about 80% strip/20% street, so any little gain would be great, BUT I always drive it to the track, so no trailer time for me. Basically a once-a-week drive to work and then a drive to the track and run all day...then drive back home kinda deal.

I've heard that little things might include:

1. Driver sitting in the driver's seat during alignment (if they would even let me).

2. Jacking the car up slightly to the height the car will be as it's going down track. How would one know exactly how high the car is in that instance?

Anything else or any validity to the above? I'm only in the high 12 to very low 13 second range right now, but I'd like to get down to the mid 12's or so (I actually only run the 1/8th)...so is this not worth it at this level or is it something to consider?

Thanks for any and all suggestions! smile.gif

Justin,
You will definitely want to have you weight in the drivers seat when the car is aligned. You can put some weights on the floorboard if the shop doesn't want you to be physically in the car. For a drag car you will want to have the camber set at the high side of the spec and toe-in at the minimum spec. More important though is to make sure that bump steer is at an absolute minimum, or non-existant, as the suspension goes through is total range of movement. If there is any bump steer, the toe will change as the chassis raises and falls, which will reduce your et. Correction of bump-steer is somewhat involved and is corrected by adjusting the tie rod height at the sindles and/or raising or lowering the steering box and idler arm mounting points on the frame.

I would want minimal camber, and caster on the high side. Minimal toe in, but you definetly want some toe in, since when the suspension picks up it should toe in (double check me on that), since its front steer.

You might want a little camber since you drive it on the street, and you need to turn corners.

Although i would suggest driving it, like you would drive on the return road (slow!)

.

Justin, This is how I set-up mine (BBC car btw..lots of torque)

Driver in car
Jack front of car to extend suspension 2”
Toe-In set to 1/16”
Camber set to 0°
Caster set at maximum negative

chevy_69_chevelle, have you driven the car on the street much? If so, how did it feel? Safe or unsafe for intermittent usage? Stop and go traffic, highway or both? Thanks for the specs, btw.

Brian and engineguy, you have differing opinions on the camber. Discussion or did I misunderstand?

I don't think moving the tie rod height or any fabbing is in the cards here as far is bumpsteer goes. That is interesting, as I'd had heard something about that, but wasn't sure. Any more info on that for historical purposes?

Thanks for the replies all!

Sorry, just relized you will be driving it on the street. Mine doesn't go on the street, unless there is a car show within a few miles of my house.

I believe though, the only thing you would want to change would be the camber to around -.5°

I stand corrected! must have been early or something. I meant maximum caster spec for drag race set-up, although this will cause some additional steering effort on the street.