I recently installed a complete 4 wheel disc kit from Right Stuff Detailing. (Got the kit from Matt's Classic Bow Ties.) After problems with the brake lines we finally got everything hooked up.
After doing ALL the tricks I could find, including CPP's on line info (bench bleeding, tilting the calipers, parking brake adjustment etc.) I cannot get a hard pedal. If I block the rear flex the pedal is like a rock so, it's in the rear.
Took the car to a shop to try pressure bleeding. Still no better. The guys at the shop complained bitterly about 80's Cadillac rear calipers (Clones of these are in the kit.)
Any words of wisdom out there?
Thanks.

What about the parking brakes on the Cadillac rears? The parking brake mechanism is like a self adjuster for the rear pads. If you do not have a parking brake mechanism hooked-up to them, then the pads will not be adjusted properly. You need to cycle the parking brake mechanism periodically to take into account for the pad wear. This could be your problem. For some reason the integrated parking brake in the caliper necessitated this weird design that compensates for pad wear with a rotating mechanism behind the piston. This mechanism was actuated by the parking brake. Some people will tell you that you need to set the parking brake everytime you park, but that might just be a little overkill. If your pads wore that fast you would be replacing them every oil change!

Did the parking brake adjustment per CPP's tech info. The guy's at the shop also tried adjusting them...no help.

Those Caddy calipers are a PITA!
I got 'em on the 59, and more often than not, wish I did not.

If you think they are adjusted correctly--(If you can move the lever more than 1/2" they are not), then the next step is to:
1-Remove the caliper-leave lines attatched
2-insert a block the same size as the width of your rotor between brake pads
3-Rotate the caliper (probably rearward) so that the bleeder is straight up.
4-Bleed rear lines again.

Some of these mount in such a way that the bleeder is NOT at the top of the caliper.
The bozo that designed the brackets for these really needs to be hung!
I fought with mine for weeks, then realized I had a bad caliper. (would not adjust)

If you need to adjust----tighten the adjuster all the way---if you cannot get the arm on the nut positioned close to the rear stop---do this

(CPP's tech help online has some errors that have not been addressed in a few years.)

Lossen the adjuster (retracting pads) all the way(you will have to figure out how to maintain a grip on the screw as it will retract into the caliper).

When resistance is felt----a bit more pressure and the screw will slip.
Slip just a bit and retighten----check the fit of the arm.

Might take several tries to get this.

Once you get it figured out---piece of cake
Getting it figured out is the hard part.

After getting my replacement caliper---only took 10 minutes to adjust & Bleed.

Did the parking brake adjustment per CPP's tech info. The guy's at the shop also tried adjusting them...no help.

By the way-----If I remember correctly.

The tech info is talking about one side, but giving instructions for the other side:confused:.

Bryan is right... there always seems to be that 'little bit of air' left unless you park the car on a steep hill or use his fine suggestion of rotating the caliper.

Bryan59EC...Thanks for the suggestions. We did remove the rears to bleed them with the screws on top so, I'm sure the answer is in the parking brake adjustment.

This Caddillac caliper deal is should be dumped. I'm sure it was a try to minimize part count but since most systems now use a seperate parking brake system the conversion brake guys should get the message.

Anybody tried the set up from True Connections? This is late model (2002?) with a drum parking brake.