The 350 SB in my 67 Chevelle is supposedly equipped with a "full roller motor" and gear drive. I can certainly hear the gear drive, way too loud for me. The cam is also a cause for grief as the idle is terrible and streetablity is sacrificed. Part thottle driving is very "mushy", but punch the gas and hang on! My plans call for replacing the cam with a more resonable grind for the street, and while I'm at it I plan to take the gear drive off and replace with a standard cam gear and timing chain. Since I've never done a cam before, what will I need to accomplish this? I know I'll need a cam and timing set, but what else. How about lifters? If I purchase a new hydrolic cam should I just go ahead and buy new lifters too?

The "mushy" feel you describe could also be from the car having a loose converter which matches the cam profile/rpm range.

You may wind up having to swap converters if you go to a smaller flat tappet or hydraulic roller cam.

Don't think it's the convertor. It appears not to be a very high stall at all. Regardless, I'm yanking out the TH350 and replacing with a 5- speed manual so that will not be an issue.

Originally posted by trimless:
Since I've never done a cam before, what will I need to accomplish this? I know I'll need a cam and timing set, but what else. How about lifters? If I purchase a new hydrolic cam should I just go ahead and buy new lifters too? I think that you will have to assess the whole valvetrain. You will need the appropriate lifter to go with your cam of choice. If you change lifters you may have to change pushrods to get the proper length. You also may have to change valvesprings. Roller cam springs are often too heavy for a hydraulic cam. If you have a billet core roller cam and change to an iron core cam you'll most likely need to change your distributor gear too.

And if you use a roller cam don't you need a button at the front?

Yes, roller = button, unless it is a newer block and uses a cam retainer.

Well, I feel stupid. What's a cam button?

I'm guessing you don't too much,and please don't take offense at that smile.gif
If you don't like the geardrive,change it over to a double roller timing chain,and continue with your planned swap to a manual trans.I'd leave the cam alone..sounds like you'll be wasting money and heading down the road towards frustrationville.Maybe your combo needs to be dialed in a little better (carb adjustments,timing,etc)

do you know if its a solid roller or hydraulic? either way the valve springs will be too much for a hyraulic flat tappet..also the valves are probably +.100 in length to get the proper installed height, so they new springs would need to be profesionally set up...The upside...you can resell the roller set up for some decent money

Thanks for the good information guys. No offense taken, I've spend a lot of time with bolt on's, but engine internals are new to me. The plan of swapping to the 5-speed before messing with the cam sounds like a good one. I'm not sure if the set up in the 350 is a solid lift cam or hydrolic. The guy I bought the car from did none of the engine work so he was no help. Another stupid question- how can you tell if the engine has a hydrolic of solid lifer set up?

You can do a cam swap, if you don't like the idle and part throttle performance. If it is a solid roller, more than likely you can use everything you have right now in your valvetrain, and opt for a mild street roller such as Crane or Comp Cams. The only thing you would probably have to change is the cam and maybe the valve springs, it depends on what spring pressure you have now. If you have friends that are mechanically inclined, you should have no problem doing the cam swap if you have some guidance. You can call Comp Cams at 1-800-999-0853 and talk to their tech line. If you run their smallest Extreme Energy line their XR286R, you more than likely have much better idle and much better low end and midrange acceleration. UD Harold here could also give you a cam recommendation if you can list your internals.

I forgot if you have what they call a pop up spring roller lifter, you don't even have to take off your intake. Just back off the rocker arms and pull the cam out. It is a little more involved than that, but you get the gist! Good luck!! graemlins/beers.gif

Thanks for the input. But I guess there is no way of knowing what I have (solid or hydrolic) without tearing into the engine, right?

Originally posted by trimless:
I guess there is no way of knowing what I have (solid or hydrolic) without tearing into the engine, right? Correct.My vote,as I said earlier,is to leave it alone.I'm sure your combo needs to be dialed in.Whats the base and total timing? Vacuum advance or no? Changing the cam should be the last resort..
JMHO and experience.