Hello all, I have a 1978 454. This is going in the 72. I would like to make 550+ streetable Hp. I would imagine I will not turn it much higher than 6000 rpm. Can I get there from here? If so what recommendations for: heads, cam, and pistons would get me there? Hopefully Mike (Wolfplace) and maybe UD Harold will chime in.
Thanks in advance
Bill

Here you go. I have recently switched to an RPM manifold and will go to a 3" exhaust soon. Last outing on Dyno put 400HP/ 430TORQUE to the rear wheels.
468
Steel crank
Shop peened and polished rods
KB Hyper 10.25:1
Full Comp Roller
Cam: 232/232, 578, 110 lobe sep. Part # 11-450-8
Pro Magnum Roller Rockers 1.7
Pro Magnum Hydrolic Lifters
Double Springs
702's heavily ported w/ Manley Stainless Larger Valves
ALL ARP Bolts
New Team G Single Plane
Quick Fuel 850
HEI
Hooker Comp Headers 1 7/8 with 3 1/2 Collector

I hope this helps...:thumbsup:

Bill,

I think you're right in saying that this is a good questions for the experts (ie. Mike, Harold, and others).I don't claim to be any expert, but until they chime in, I'll say that you'll need to focus on a good set of heads IMO. BMF, Brodix, or AFR. I would think that the 315-325cc range is where you'll want to be for the intake runner size. If you want that level of power out of a 454 motor below 6,000 RPM, and on pump gas naturally aspirated, then my guess is that you also have to go with a solid roller cam, but maybe Mike or Harold can come up with a hydraulic roller for you that will fill the ticket.

Just don't go too big with the intake ports of the cylinder heads if you want to have good throttle response below 3,500 RPM. I'd say that you also need to keep the static compression ratio between 10.5-11.0 to 1 depending on what cam you choose.

Thanks Frank. I was looking for something around 500 to 550. Your combo looks about right. I then spoke with my brother and he wants 550 to 600. Well Hell I want 1400hp and a million dollars LOL. Anyway I do want to run aftermarket heads and am looking for recommendations on those also. I just dont think we can get there without spinning it higher. Thank you for your reply
Bill

Thanks Frank. I was looking for something around 500 to 550. Your combo looks about right. I then spoke with my brother and he wants 550 to 600. Well Hell I want 1400hp and a million dollars LOL. Anyway I do want to run aftermarket heads and am looking for recommendations on those also. I just dont think we can get there without spinning it higher. Thank you for your reply
Bill

I didn't know if you meant rwhp or to the flywheel. Some upgraded heads and bump up my compression to 10.75 or so and I'll be closer to 530-540. Good luck...:thumbsup:

Do a search on my username and look at my old pump gas 454 combo with a mild solid street roller. 10.37:1 compression, Canfield 310cc heads, Dart single plane, 1" Wilson tapered spacer, HP-950 carb, Comp XR-286 solid roller, 2" headers. Ran a best of 10.53@127.11 @ 3,760lbs with an 8" converter, TH-400 and 4.11 gears through the tail pipes. Would probably still creep into the 10's with an Edelbrock Performer RPM, less converter and less gear. All that on 93 octane pump gas. ;)

Here's mine. I guess it might dyno in the 530-550 range (with a good tune).

454(.030" overbore)
TRW 2349 Forged pistons (10.0-1 scr)
GM 3/8" Truck Rods (polished, side clearanced, shotpeened, SPS bolts)
Ported open chamber oval port '049
(2.19/1.88 valves, 308cfm intake, 220cfm exhaust)
Isky Mechanical Roller cam
248 deg @.050" intake
252 deg @.050" exhaust
.638" lift intake
.646" lift exhaust
110 deg LSA (4 deg advanced)
Isky Red Zone Roller lifters
Crower Stainless Steel Roller Rockers (1.8 intake / 1.7 exhaust)
Pro Systems 1000HP carb
Edelbrock RPM Air-Gap manifold (1" spacer)
Hedman headers: 2" primary/3" collectors,

OK all, This is great advice! I believe that the best advice for my brother is to tell him to back up to 500 to 550 instead of 550 to 600. He will drive this on the sreet most of the time and I think he is going overboard. I do want to run AFR's or other aftermarket heads and keep it definately in the streetable area cause I will be the one to fix it when he blows it up! He is looking for "WILD" as possible and I am looking more along the lines of more than he can put to the ground without cutting up the car and reliablity on the street. So I guess I am looking to build as much grunt as possible without running really wild cams with high spring pressures and all that.
Thx guys
Bill

OK all, This is great advice! I believe that the best advice for my brother is to tell him to back up to 500 to 550 instead of 550 to 600. He will drive this on the sreet most of the time and I think he is going overboard. I do want to run AFR's or other aftermarket heads and keep it definately in the streetable area cause I will be the one to fix it when he blows it up! He is looking for "WILD" as possible and I am looking more along the lines of more than he can put to the ground without cutting up the car and reliablity on the street. So I guess I am looking to build as much grunt as possible without running really wild cams with high spring pressures and all that.
Thx guys
Bill

The combination I mentioned ran with ~180lbs on the seat and ~500lbs open and was a ZERO maintenance deal with a stud girdle. I logged a fair number of street miles (~1,000-1,500) and hundreds of 1/4 mile passes without issue and minimal valve adjustment (twice a year). This engie was regularly spun to 6,600-6,800 RPM, FWIW.

Get a 496 stroker kit, and a soild roller cam and you will get clsoe to 600 HP.

I saw a 496 combo here with iron heads and a 231/239 .6/.6 HR make 575HP, about same or more tq.

Gotta love it!

Get a 496 stroker kit, and a soild roller cam and you will get clsoe to 600 HP.

I saw a 496 combo here with iron heads and a 231/239 .6/.6 HR make 575HP, about same or more tq.

Gotta love it!

How much HP do you think my pump gas 454 was making to propel 3,760lbs to 10.5@127? That ET/MPH was ran at Carolina Dragway which is the slowest track I race on (for MPH). I'd have to dig through a box of old timeslips, but I think that setup ran a best MPH of 128.44 at Silver Dollar Raceway with a slower ET (spinning). That's as much MPH as many of the stroker engines on this site. In fact, I later added 2+ points of compression, more cam and nearly $1,500 in head work and the engine didn't run much quicker/faster (see sig). That pump gas setup was a ripper!

How much HP do you think my pump gas 454 was making to propel 3,760lbs to 10.5@127? That ET/MPH was ran at Carolina Dragway which is the slowest track I race on (for MPH). I'd have to dig through a box of old timeslips, but I think that setup ran a best MPH of 128.44 at Silver Dollar Raceway with a slower ET (spinning).


ALOT :D

Based on what I read here from time to time, a BB with a solid roller by itself runs low 11's, and this is with low compression in some cases, and no alum heads.

I think what I would do now is get a 454 block, buy an inexpensive stroker kit along with a SR cam, clean-up a set of rec. iron heads, and get my 600HP for cheap.

PS - I love those muffs you sent me :thumbsup:

We have "X" amount to spend and I think the stroker kit will be "X+" The heads will be needed in either so I think we will spend the lions share of "X" on the heads and stay stock stroke. Kjetts set up sounds great and reliable with more hp than I thought I could get at that level.
Bill

ALOT :D

Based on what I read here from time to time, a BB with a solid roller by itself runs low 11's, and this is with low compression in some cases, and no alum heads.

I think what I would do now is get a 454 block, buy an inexpensive stroker kit along with a SR cam, clean-up a set of rec. iron heads, and get my 600HP for cheap.

PS - I love those muffs you sent me :thumbsup:

You might spend more money cleaning up your iron heads (decent size valves, hardened seats, new guides, etc...) than a brand new pair of Canfield heads cost ;) Stroker is a plus, but not required to meet his HP objectives. Now if he prefers to meet those objectives with a hydraulic cam that's another matter altogether ;)

Glad you like the mufflers... vrooom... vrooom.... :D

Bill,

II'll say that you'll need to focus on a good set of heads IMO. BMF, Brodix, or AFR. I would think that the 315-325cc range is where you'll want to be for the intake runner size. If you want that level of power out of a 454 motor below 6,000 RPM, and on pump gas naturally aspirated, then my guess is that you also have to go with a solid roller cam,.

Well, I'd disagree on a few fronts and only from experience with my current 454 that made 600 dyno hp and 550 ft lbs at 6000/3500 rpm respectively.

I run 049 heads that are ported with 2.3 / 1.8 valves.....no need at all for aftermarket stuff there.

Cam is a FT solid grind so no need for a roller no less a SR.

Comp. is 10.5-1 and runs fine at 40 degrees total timing on 91 octane.

No need for the expensive aftermarket stuff at these power levels.

We have "X" amount to spend and I think the stroker kit will be "X+" The heads will be needed in either so I think we will spend the lions share of "X" on the heads and stay stock stroke. Kjetts set up sounds great and reliable with more hp than I thought I could get at that level.
Bill

If you go the Canfield route buy a set of bare castings and order the valves, springs, keepers, etc... and assemble them yourself. I used Rev valves (2.25" intake/1.88" exhaust)on the above mentioned engine. I don't know of many folks running them, but they make a very good quality valve and are reasonably priced, IMO.

http://www.revvalves.com/home.php

Well, I'd disagree on a few fronts and only from experience with my current 454 that made 600 dyno hp and 550 ft lbs at 6000/3500 rpm respectively.

I run 049 heads that are ported with 2.3 / 1.8 valves.....no need at all for aftermarket stuff there.

Cam is a FT solid grind so no need for a roller no less a SR.

Comp. is 10.5-1 and runs fine at 40 degrees total timing on 91 octane.

No need for the expensive aftermarket stuff at these power levels.

Hi Chris,

No disrespect meant, but if you're engine is making 600 HP and trapping 121 MPH then my old pump gas setup must have been making close to 700hp :D It would take another 60-70RWHP to get your car to 127-128mph. My old pump gas setup wouldn't run slower than 124mph in the dead summer heat (4,000' + DA).

Heck,a hydraulic,f/t cammed 454 can run mid 11's at 114-115 MPH with 3.73 gears and 10 to 1 compression with cast iron oval port heads.High 11's on a bad day.
Simple 231/239 @ .050 .550/.575 110 LSA cam.

hey kjett, can you post your complete 468 pump gas combo that you were running tens with? those are impressive times. thanks

Heck,a hydraulic,f/t cammed 454 can run mid 11's at 114-115 MPH with 3.73 gears and 10 to 1 compression with cast iron oval port heads.High 11's on a bad day.
Simple 231/239 @ .050 .550/.575 110 LSA cam.

I agree, Chris. I only gave my engine example as he mentioned a goal of 550hp-600hp. As near as I can tell my pump gas engine was making ~600hp, maybe 625 tops. I didn't dyno that iteration, but the second iteration with more compression, cam and headwork went 675 at the flywheel.

Perhaps an ET goal is a better way to approach the discussion.

hey kjett, can you post your complete 468 pump gas combo that you were running tens with? those are impressive times. thanks

It was actually 460" (.030 over). I couldn't find an old post with the information, so here you go:

454 .030" = 460
ARP hardware throughout
2 bolt main with ARP bolts (no studs)
Wiseco pistons .010" in the hole
.041" compressed height FelPro head gasket
LS-6 rods/ARP bolts
Lunati racer series crank
Clevite bearings
Melling HV pump
Moroso 6 qt kick-out pan
Canfield 310cc heads 2.25" intake/1.88" exhaust
Rev stainless valves
Iskt tool room springs
Trend 3/8" pushrods
Crower Severe Duty HIPPO roller lifters
Dart single plane intake from Lukovich Racing
1" Wilson tapared spacer
Holley HP-950 carb (50cc pump f/r, tuned by me)
Hooker 2" Super Comp headers
MSD 6AL box
MSD billet distributor
MSD blaster II coil
Flowmaster merge collectors
3" Straighline Performance mufflers
3" Torque Tech exhaust
8" ATI converter (flashed to 5,300)
TH-400 tranny built by me
4.11 rear gears
28" MT 3055S stiff wall slicks
28" Hoosier skinnies

I think that's it. Let me know if you have any other questions. I still have the pistons/rods is you need them :)

Ken,

How was that XR286 on the street in terms of drivability, brakes, etc.?

Ken,

How was that XR286 on the street in terms of drivability, brakes, etc.?

Worked fine. IIRC, it had about 9" of vacuum. I ran a vacuum reservoir as well and never had an issue. You can build plenty of vacuum driving around town with a 5,000RPM stall converter :)

You can build plenty of vacuum driving around town with a 5,000RPM stall converter :)

Thanks for that little tidbit of info!

Whisky,
I would suggest one of 2 options:
1st; Low maintance. Buy the stroker kit and build a 496. The cubes and added piston speed from the arm makes strokers a great HP build for lower rpm lower maintance bullets. Use a set of OEM heads either a set of 990's or a set of 049"s. Use this along with a small single plane like a Vic jr and you will have a streetable 550 to 600hp on pump gas. I do it all the time with marine engines that are limited to 5500 to 6000 rpm. A build like this can run for 20K miles without wrenching.

2nd would be as some have posted, get a good set of heads in aluminum and shoot for 10.5 to 1. Run an airgap style dual plane and get a matched camshaft to the combo. You will need, IMO, to turn the engine a little higher then 6000. I would say about 6400 to 6600 will get you to your HP goal. Also note with rpm comes more maintance.

I think a hydraulic roller 496 would be way to much fun in a street car! I might have try it one day.

A friend of mine had a 461 built and dynoed that seems to be similar to what you are after

461
9.5:1
2.19 1.88 valve 049's cleaned up flowed 290 max
victor Jr intake
242 248 @.050 .600 lift hyd roller

560 hp @6100
560 ft lbs

Adam

Oh how quick we forget, (unless I didn't read close enough)...

Do a search for racer1320, (Ed's), combination and go!!

pdq67

Get a 496 stroker kit, and a soild roller cam and you will get clsoe to 600 HP.

I saw a 496 combo here with iron heads and a 231/239 .6/.6 HR make 575HP, about same or more tq.

Gotta love it!

My thoughts exacly.:)

My, about 9.8 to 1 CR., 496 w/ Merlin ovals and small headers uncorked and a 750 carb. per D2k w/ no more than a CC 282S solid lifter cam should make around 550 hp at 5500 and 580 t at 4500 rpm.

Nothing fancy at all.

Cheapest bigger, small BB you can come up w/ to me!!

pdq67

It was actually 460" (.030 over). I couldn't find an old post with the information, so here you go:

454 .030" = 460
ARP hardware throughout
2 bolt main with ARP bolts (no studs)
Wiseco pistons .010" in the hole
.041" compressed height FelPro head gasket
LS-6 rods/ARP bolts
Lunati racer series crank
Clevite bearings
Melling HV pump
Moroso 6 qt kick-out pan
Canfield 310cc heads 2.25" intake/1.88" exhaust
Rev stainless valves
Iskt tool room springs
Trend 3/8" pushrods
Crower Severe Duty HIPPO roller lifters
Dart single plane intake from Lukovich Racing
1" Wilson tapared spacer
Holley HP-950 carb (50cc pump f/r, tuned by me)
Hooker 2" Super Comp headers
MSD 6AL box
MSD billet distributor
MSD blaster II coil
Flowmaster merge collectors
3" Straighline Performance mufflers
3" Torque Tech exhaust
8" ATI converter (flashed to 5,300)
TH-400 tranny built by me
4.11 rear gears
28" MT 3055S stiff wall slicks
28" Hoosier skinnies

I think that's it. Let me know if you have any other questions. I still have the pistons/rods is you need them :)

Good list. What about heads?

Good list. What about heads?

They're in there... 310cc Canfield aluminum heads.

Wow, seems as though this can be done several ways. I wonder which would be the most streetable and low maintenance? Thanks guys for all the input.I have a lot to think about.
Bill

here is my combo, i am hoping for low 11s


454=.070 over 2bolt block
srp forged pistons comp. ratio 10.4.1
steel crank shaft
eagle h-beam rods
weiand team g manifold
holley 1050 dominator
lunati camshaft 256/264 @.050 .660in/660out ICL 110/104 s.roller
th-350 w/3400-3600 converter
4.56 gears
msd ignition
comp roller lifters/roller rockers
3" flowmasters w/xpipe
2" hooker super comp. headers
118cc 781 oval ports w/2.19in 1.88ex

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j281/fast470/Picture002-1.jpg
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j281/fast470/Picture002-1.jpg

Ken,

What was the piston number, did you have to cut anything off the piston for piston valve clearance? Did you use the 119 cc head? CNC chamber?

This sounds like a great combo and would get my 2730 pound car for sure down around 10 flat.

Just checked the Canfield website and their 310 head has the exhaust port raised 0.600 inches, so potential header problems.

Comparing the Brodix Race Rites, the intake flow is pretty close to the Canfield head, but the Canfield exhaust flow is way better. So the raised exhaust port head definitely gets the exhaust out way better.

Ken,

What was the piston number, did you have to cut anything off the piston for piston valve clearance? Did you use the 119 cc head? CNC chamber?

This sounds like a great combo and would get my 2730 pound car for sure down around 10 flat.

Just checked the Canfield website and their 310 head has the exhaust port raised 0.600 inches, so potential header problems.

Comparing the Brodix Race Rites, the intake flow is pretty close to the Canfield head, but the Canfield exhaust flow is way better. So the raised exhaust port head definitely gets the exhaust out way better.
Sandy,

The pistons were part # K117A3. They come with a 36cc dome and we cut them to 32cc IIRC. The heads were 119cc chambers. The exhaust ports on the Canfield head definitely made the header fitment tight. I had to roll two of the tubes with a ball bat to get enough clearance. Still ran pretty good anyway, lol.

Hi Chris,

No disrespect meant, but if you're engine is making 600 HP and trapping 121 MPH then my old pump gas setup must have been making close to 700hp :D It would take another 60-70RWHP to get your car to 127-128mph. My old pump gas setup wouldn't run slower than 124mph in the dead summer heat (4,000' + DA).

None taken. 600 was with a 2'' spacer which gave me 30 hp. So, as it sits in the car it is more like 570 as the spacer does not fit under my stock hood.

At any rate, dyno's are all diff. as we all know so....

good info, thanks alot

It`s not a chevelle but my buddys old 67 camaro ran 11.16@122 with a 9:1 454 with ported 990 heads, vic jr intake, old BG 750(the onles that flowed 1050) and a chet herbert solid ft 255/265@.050 .600/.620 on a 110lsa. He didn`t degree it in but the guy at CH told him to just put it in on the 4* advance mark. He was running 2 1/8" headers with 3" pipes,th400 and TCI 10" converter 4.10 gears and a 28x9 slick.

Another friend of mine with a camaro has a dynoed 468 2 556hp and runs 10.90`s with a best of 10.88 at around 122mph.

Good topic. My goals when I get to building my car are 550-600hp, Hydraulic roller on pump gas. I don't want to adjust solids especially when the goal is very easy to get on a 402" LS based motor.

66ChevElcamino has 2 nice setups.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196115

I'd like to build somethig close to his 468 but maybe switch to Racerites.

Heck,a hydraulic,f/t cammed 454 can run mid 11's at 114-115 MPH with 3.73 gears and 10 to 1 compression with cast iron oval port heads.High 11's on a bad day.
Simple 231/239 @ .050 .550/.575 110 LSA cam.

yeah, I'd like to have some of that.. :yes:

How much HP do you think my pump gas 454 was making to propel 3,760lbs to 10.5@127? That ET/MPH was ran at Carolina Dragway which is the slowest track I race on (for MPH). I'd have to dig through a box of old timeslips, but I think that setup ran a best MPH of 128.44 at Silver Dollar Raceway with a slower ET (spinning). That's as much MPH as many of the stroker engines on this site. In fact, I later added 2+ points of compression, more cam and nearly $1,500 in head work and the engine didn't run much quicker/faster (see sig). That pump gas setup was a ripper!

You know, that is exactly what I was thinking. Pump gas 10.5 et's are pretty stout. I can just guess that there was virtually nothing left in that combo. Sure, you could pi** around for years with different cams, converters, and intake manifolds to squeeze maybe another tenth or .15 out of it, but why the hell bother? That motor combo will take you to about 98%, and you don't even have to guess. Just duplicate. My little 427 needs 12.2 to 1, and a huge cam just to come close, with race gas yet! This combo is a no brainer. Best part is you can use a cast crank on this deal if that's what you have. Cast crank, stock rods, just spend a little on nice light pistons, and good breathing and you are done, son.

Bill, lots of great advice here. I shouldnt comment since my 427 only runs at 118.75, which is < 520 hp at the crank, BUT as evidenced in this thread and by searches, you'll need a few "tricks" to get to 550, or over 123-4 mph in the 1/4 ( stock body). Great heads, or simply very well cleaned up stock heads, a hydraulic roller cam ( since it sounds like your bro aint the gearhead wrenching on it would benefit stock heads as well as aftermarkets.

Kenny's Canfields are very good heads if you can find some used. I spend as much on my 990's as a used set of Canfields. Trying to maintain a stock engine bay is a PITA.

If your bro is all about saying its 550 hp, I'd go with 781s/049s, etc, SRP lugs and stock everyhing else, except, HR roller ( only good to 6000/6300) from Harold, or one of his older designs. Lift in the .600 range if he'll drive it more than 2K/yr, more lift if less.

if he needs to dyno 550, you guys better buy a good set of heads. Solid roller would do it as well. But if you;re the "crew chief" , go HR.

Hell, AFRs on top of my current 427 would pick up a bunch, likely 3-5 mph. Thats near his goal. 427. Flat tappet cam. AFR heads. 427 will do 600 with those heads and a mech roller. Pushing the "streetable"limits, you do need to use compression to get to these numbers, 10.25:1 min, I'd say. And I dont want to sound anal, but engine assembly/tolerance checking are worth a ton of free HP. Most of us have to pay up for that, but to me, free HP is the best HP and if it costs a bit more to ensure eveything is 100%, its worth the dough.

Kenny's engine was clearly well assembled. I think the old fella ( it was his last big block) who put my 427 together did a heckuva job. Why? it MPH beyond what I expected, some of that is machining /assembly for sure. Some of that is the "magic combination", a "perfect storm of parts". Otherwise, you need to choose to spend your $$ on a big HR cam, or aftermarket heads.

Ken, would you say that your original combo with the XR286 was pretty if not very streetable capable of 2-3K miles a year, and not having a problem getting stuck in the ocassional traffic jam?

Have watched this thread for a while now. Personally I lke rollers as I have lost a flat tappet or two in the past - especially on a higher mileage big block where the lifter bores were maybe just not perfect. JMHO, Brings you down to two choices. Hyd roller for low(lower) maintenance and RPM limit to 6000, or solid roller for higher RPM limit but with added maintenance. But have to be realistic, what really is maintenance? I haven't went two consecutive seasons without adjusting valves, so what difference would it make if I went solid - I'm in there anyway. You have to answer the same question. Then if you are like most of us, every year you will probably make some changes, so that shoots the maintenace issue right out the window.

Some of Harold's solid flat tappet grinds make as much HP as hyd rollers, maybe more at higher R's, but thats for someone who wants the "classic old skool" thing.

Joe, if an old block's lifter bores are crooked, brother they'll wipe out a roller too. Usually about 1-2 K into it! And its the lifter that goes, not the lobe. But, certainly need to " say a Hail Mary" or two with aggressive flat tappet run -ins.

Bill, the name escapes me, but someone just took possesioon of one of Mike Lewis's " mild street" mills that exceeds your goals. search " thanks Wolfplace ".

Ken, would you say that your original combo with the XR286 was pretty if not very streetable capable of 2-3K miles a year, and not having a problem getting stuck in the ocassional traffic jam?

That engine was VERY streetable. Idled at 900RPMs all day long. In fact, that only thing not streetable about the whole car was the 5,300 stall ATI 8" converter. That didn't stop me from driving it on the street though :) IMO, the Comp XR-286 is a LOW maintenance deal with a good set of Crower lifters, good springs and pushrods.

Gene, I'm not advocating to run a block where you know the lifter bore is not correct. But I have experienced engines that just had a tendency to eat cams did very well with rollers. Can't say what the long term reliability was, this was way back and these were not street motors. The motors were not together long enough to actually document the difference in longevity.

Guys,

I am pretty new to the site and would also like you help on this question.

I just finished installing a 454 in my 1970 convert. I purchased it on Ebay from a guy in AZ.(Tuff Dawg Engines -$5695.00). He claims on the ebay site that this motor is pumping 574 HP. I am running a stage3 700 r4 and a 3.50 Posi and I must say that this motor is pretty tuff and makes a ton of power but I am having a hard time believing I am getting 574 at the fly wheel.
Is it even possible toget 574HP on 93 pump gas. I was wondering if one you guys who knows about 454's would look up his site on ebay and look at the specs. Let me know what you think. I do plan on having it dyno'd in the near future and will give a post on the out come.

Respectfully,
Fireman401--John