Has anyone fabbed up there own exhaust? Ive been fighting mine for a long time with leaks and old dirty pipes. Im going to buy my supplies today. Hedman 2 1/2" pipes with a 2" H Pipe, the rear of the car is where im not sure what to do. I can have the pipes come straight out the back, or out the sides before the rear tires, which I hear will scrape alot and theres not much clearence, or also out the sides, but after the rear tires. Personally Id like them out the sides somewhere, I love the look. Id probably have to use a really sharp angle to achieve that though.

Well if anyone has pictures or ideas that would make my day.

graemlins/beers.gif

Or should I leave it to the pro's and take it in....

Well, I've never personally done it, but my dad did it on our wagon once when I was a kid to try and save money. Once. He said by the time he was all done with it he would have been better off to take it somewhere, because it was basically an incredible hassle.

Call around to every shop you can find in the phone book until you find one that has some reasonable prices. They can vary greatly. For instance, the shop that used to be a few blocks north of me said, "OH! Wow...we'd have to custom bend that system...$300." I called a shop several blocks south from me and the guy said, "Sure. Bring it down. Hundred-fifty bucks." I didn't want anything fancy, so I was happy with the job they did for one-fifty.

Yeah I know what you mean, I called a few places, $300 and two other places were $200. I keep looking at it though it seems really simple the way I want to do it, but it would be even more simple to have a shop do it. Its just that the pipes and all the supplies are so cheap from my work and ive been wanting to weld something lately. It's really a toss up.

Nice Chevelle you have there. I think it deserves a heathy 454 + BBC. Give this place a call for a nice fitting exhaust. They have the complete set up front to rear. Try their web site. torquetechexh.com You should give them a call for a free catalog. You might use it for future use. Or hold off on your exhaust until you get the catalog to check them out 1-800-408-0016

check out my website for pictures of mine.

Its all stainless, with an H pipe, in 3", mandrel bends.

Build by me, of course.

http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/camaroracer/1087958470-003917.jpg

I paid 400 for hte exhaust on my chevelle, and i must say, i got what i paid for. THey routed hte pipes so clean and perfect that from behind you can only see hte tips, non of hte tubing, and they pushed hte mufflers as close as they could safely get them to the car and made sure htey were even.

Its worth the cost if you get it done at the right shop.

I provided mufflers and mine was like $150, they did a great mandrel bend job (2 1/4) and I had a hanger break, they fixed it free no questions.

http://www.cardomain.com/id/slowride454

my 110V welder kind of sucks but the system sure sounds nice

here's a few better shots of the stainless 3" system i built:

http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/camaroracer/1097162994-004682.jpg

http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/camaroracer/1097162498-004681.jpg

http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/camaroracer/1097162359-004680.jpg

http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/camaroracer/1097161567-004679.jpg

http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/camaroracer/1097161332-004678.jpg

Damn, those 3" pipes are some serious business! Very nice, all the pictures are nice im jealous :D I talked the guy to $250 at Marcco Muffler, its right by my work so I left it there. There doing H pipe, 2 1/4" I had alot of flex pipe, and 2" before, you couldnt even imagine how bad it was. I get it back in a couple hours graemlins/beers.gif It aint no 3" Mandrel though

Unless you are pushing some serious HP you don't 3" system, so don't worry about it.

Think a 450-500HP Big Block will be ok with the exhaust system im geting put in? Id hate to change it again next year.

WOW, Ok so my exhaust WAS shot to hell, flex pipes, misc wires holding it sadly to the car. The one thing I didnt notice was the mufflers were in backwards, the inlet was the outlet, and vise versa. So they fixed that, all new pipes, with an H pipe, out the back corners, ill get a good picture, I LOVE IT. The sound, completely different, feels different too. I wonder what BBC would sound like though this :D

I would have done 2.5" minimum with an expected 500 hp motor, I've got 3" on mine too graemlins/thumbsup.gif

mine cost all of $48... 9' of pipe and two cheap mufflers. tongue.gif

I built my own. Backhalfed cars don't leave a lot of room for pipes in the back so mine just exit out the side before the tires. Pipe and muffers are 3 1/2 inch. Heres some pics
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Dsc00508.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Dsc00509.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Dsc00513.jpg http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Dsc00514.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Dsc00515.jpg http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/tempundee70ssside2.jpg

Brian, nice job! wish i had a tig(or knew how to weld with one!) No flowmaster scavenger collectors? You ain't BSE without them!@ ALso what is that small diameter tube? Also you might consider some globalwest or alston racing subframe connectors they go from the front frame to the rear frame not the leaf spring pocket, they also don't require you to remove your body mount, they also have better ground clearance and do a much better job at strenthning your car.

thanks for the compliment.

about the collectors, i built a merge collector based on Ed Hennaman's work. So, yes, its 'similar' in how it works, but different in design to the scavenger collector.

these subframe connectors work for now. The next project is a roll bar. I'll consider a different connector design when i make my own.
I wanted to use these because i can unbolt them when i change subframes to my own design.

the smaller diameter tube going perpendicular to the frame, is the driveshaft loop. I fabbed it out of round tube, but need to make a new center section for it over the winter.

I made it so it bolts through the subframe connectors.

i also made a tubular transmission crossmember that has a removeable center section so i can remove the trans crossmber in less then 5 minutes. The stock one took up too much room and was a pain to install/remove.

This one weighs 6 lbs compaired to the stock one, weighing 11lbs.

wow, good job, didn't realize you were such the fabricator!

thanks! check out the website, its got pictures of the crossmembers, and a few more of the exhaust.