Wondering what is the best to use when smoothing the firewall. I have started using evercoat liteweight filler and I'm wondering if I should use the short strand fiberglass on the areas where I patched the firewall(heater box opening).

I have a fresh coat of SPI epoxy on it and want to get the filler on and blocked out and primed this weekend.

I wouldn't use any fiberglass filler in an area like that. I'd use the Metal 2 Metal that Evercoat sells. It stands easier and is just as strong. Then after the patch seams are covered, skim it with filler.

Tom, you may have a good point there using the metal to metal, but I tried to find out about putting epoxy under it, and I couldn't find anything, but maybe I missed it.

Or if anybody else can bring up a tech sheet on metal to metal, I think theres some ifs on it, that we don't about.

If I'm wrong I'm sorry, but I would also like to know.

I know duraglass has been talked about how good that is for patches, then regular filler.

Rob

I found evercoats website, and it doesn't look like they give you very much detail on metal 2 metal. So I looked on there frequently asked questions, and copied this.

FAQ Category Body Filler Polyester Resins Epoxy Resins PourFoam Skid-No-More Gel Coat Polyester Primers GeneralFAQ - Body Filler
http://www.evercoat.com/imgs/br_bar_blue.gifQ. Can body filler be tinted? (http://javascript<b></b>:__doPostBack('33$questionLB',''))Q. What’s the difference between a fiber reinforced filler, a regular filler, and a putty? (http://javascript<b></b>:__doPostBack('36$questionLB',''))Q. Can Evercoat fillers be applied over bare metal? Can they be applied over paint? (http://javascript<b></b>:__doPostBack('37$questionLB',''))A. Our fillers are designed to work over bare, properly prepared substrates such as: steel, aluminum, galvanized, stainless steel, fiberglass, and SMC. Some people prefer applying an epoxy primer over bare substrates to enhance corrosion protection. Our products don’t need to be applied over an epoxy for corrosion protection as long as the bare surface area is clean and no surface rust or contamination is present. However, some auto manufacturers do require body technicians to coat the bare metal surface with an epoxy before applying fillers. If you are performing warranty work, you should consult the manufacturer of the automobile for the recommended procedure. Fillers and putties will normally work OK over properly sanded (80-180 grit) cured OEM paint. However, with so many different types of aftermarket paint available (lacquer, enamel, urethane, water-based). We recommend that all paint be removed where filler is to be applied. (http://javascript<b></b>:__doPostBack('37$answerLB',''))

The last sentence makes we wonder why they don't recommend an epoxy under the metal 2 metal, maybe it will be okay, but with some of the car manufactures recommending an epoxy first, did they try it and have a problem.

With the price of paint and fillers, I would want a product sheet that says its okay to use a certain product with another, anyway, it may work, but I just wanted to pass this on.

Rob

ssboy and Tom must of went to bed, youngsters can't hang in here late with the old guys:).

Rob

ssboy and Tom must of went to bed, youngsters can't hang in here late with the old guys:).

Rob
Really? :confused: ;)

Well,:mad: some of them, my mistake:)

Rob

giving the kids a bath take priority over chatting with you Rob... no offense.

The children come first, but I'm wondering, you have had a 140 views, and nobodys saying anything, must be somebody on here that can attest to the metal 2 metal working out all right, like after having been on a while they don't have any issues, need to air this out, good or bad, maybe we can learn something on this.

Rob

Personally I think metal 2 metal is over priced over hyped.