Finally, the 461 is coming together. Just waiting on the roller rockers to arrive so we can measure the final pushrod length that i'll need. Here is my combo....

2 bolt 454 block bored .030, deck squared, align-bored, etc.
Cast steel GM crank, magged, checked for straightness, etc.
Chevy 3/8ths "truck rods with ARP wavelock bolts.
TRW F2399 small dome pistons.
Entire rotating assembly balanced within +/- 1 gram.
Edelbrock High Compression 100cc chamber aluminum heads. (With my pistons, should yield 10.25:1 compression). No port work.
Crane hydraulic roller cam 234/242 duration @.050 with .610/.632 lift.
Federal Mogul hydraulic roller lifters(thanks Tom!)
6 quart oil pan.
Performer RPM intake with no port work.
Holley HP 950 vacuum(yes, vacuum)secondary carb.
MSD Pro-Billet distributor.
Crane Hi-6 ignition(mainly for the adjustable rev limiter).
Hedman 1 7/8ths ceramic coated headers.
Taylor 8.8 mm wires.
TH-350 with the heaviest duty parts my builder could throw at it.
Converter yet to be purchased but, I'm leaning toward a Torco...maybe in the 3200-3500 range?
3.73 gears in a 12 bolt rear with posi.
F41 suspension.
275/60/15 BFG Drag Radials on rear, probably 255/60/15 BFG Radials on front. All mounted on Torque Thrust II's.

This car is a 1970 Chevelle "SS clone" and will be a 70/30 street/strip car.

What do you guys think?

Not sure about the hydraulic roller, too heavy...I think I'd rather have a double pumper from a performance stand point...I know nothing of Torco converters...still, I'm guessing low 12's high 11 timeslip,sounds like it might be a good setup...let us know graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Thanks Bob for your input.
I went with the hydraulic roller from a drivability standpoint. Plus, I wanted to keep the RPM's under 6000. My mind may change after I've toyed with it for awhile.
Torco converters are resonably well known and the price is good for a custom converter. The ATI is just beyond what I can afford at the moment.
The vacuum secondary carb is again a drivability deal. I may try an 850 that I have in reserve at some point next summer just to compare.
I am honestly hoping for 11.70's-11.80's with this setup.
I also have a 100 hp Edelbrock nitrous setup that I can add if thats not fast enough! :D

Mark,

You should be able to get that combo into the mid 11's with real good traction and a 4000 converter. you will be a little slower with a 3200 converter versus the 4000 with your combo..I don't have experience or know of anyone using a Torco converter so I cannot comment. I use Trans Specialties converters and ATI, Coan and Dynamic have great reputations too. BTE is one to consider also.

I have always found a double pumper carb to be easier to tune for strip performance as Bob indicated, but the vac secondary can closely approach and equal the DP but will just take a little more time and tuning.

I have found a 225/70/15 tire to make a nice mate for the 275/60/15 in the rear. A 215/70/15 will have even less drag running down the track and that's what I currently use.

It is nice to see you using good GM parts and not overkilling areas that are not necessary and putting the $ to good use in the carb, block and rotating assembly prep, good rod bolts, etc.

Start putting some cash away for some no-hop bars or SSM bars.

You should consider MT ET streets or Hoosier QT Pros or slicks to get you the best 60 fts and thereby the best ET's. You may have trouble hooking with the drag radials until you get the suspension sorted out.

Do you have the braces that connect the rear upper crossmember to the front mounting of the rear lower control arms (4 speed bars)?

Try my shock nut trick when you do go racing and never mind the drag shocks.

what about cooling, trans and water?

gotta get some zzzz's check back in the am..

Tom,

Thanks for your detailed input and again, thanks for the roller lifters.

I was wondering how far to go with my converter, I thought 3500 might be borderline for the street driving that this car is gonna see but, you say 4000? I need to do some additional research. Maybe some of the guys reading this post will give their input.

You guys are probably right about the DP being easier tuned. I'll see how good my patience is with the vacuum secondary!

Will I have any problem mounting the 225/70/15 tires on my 15x8 Torque Thrust II's? I do like the less drag thought.

I specifically sought out the "truck" rods for their extra webbing at the little end. I compared one to a 7/16ths rod and they are virtually the same in the crucial areas but, weigh less. They are a nice compromise...if you can find 'em. I see a set on Ebay occasionally.

I'm already thinking SSM bars, had them on a '71 SS454 car and loved them! I don't have the "4 speed" bars, where can I pick a set up?

I'm anticipating traction problems with the BFGoodrich Drag Radials but, I already have them and hate to not use them. The Hoosier QT Pro's are probably my next step. I have a friend running a '71 SS with a 406 small block who has a set and he is knocking down killer 60 foot times along with 7.15 in the 1/8th mile on spray! Unreal how hard that car leaves!

My radiator is a standard 4 core big block unit and I'll have a good sized trans cooler to go along with it. My water pump is a Edelbrock alum piece and of course I'll definately have a shroud.

Tom, please email me your "shock nut trick" and give me your recommendation on good shocks for this car.

Thanks again.

Sounds like a good combo..focus on the hook,and you should achieve your ET goals.I'd call Torco,and give them your specs,and go from there...sounds like a tight 4000 would really get you to your goal,and beyond,but remember-its all in the hook.Do a search on the "shock nut trick" here in the Peformance forum,it was well detailed over the summer.

Shock nut procedure.

At home for the first time.... remove the 3/8 fine thread lock nut and replace with a standard non-locking type nut and tighten down by hand using a socket and extension until snug. keep the lock nuts to have with you for use at the track.

1. At the track, remove the nut, washer and rubber bushing. put washer back on and then install the lock nut finger tight. both sides. store the nut and bushing to replace after racing.

Takes about 3 to 4 minutes.

I just keep an extension and 9/16 socket and the lock nuts together in my tool box so they are ready to go in case I am in a rush.

There is basically no shock action for the first 2" of movement.

you can add washers to control the action on either side.

You can also use a "crimp" style locknut or a nylon lock nut, the nylon will go on 1 more thread than the crimp nut for fine tuning.

I tried this with the 90/10s and there was more supension travel with the nut trick and 90/10s than without the nut trick and 90/10's. I felt no difference between the KYB and 90/10's and my 60 fts were essentially the same. the best part of this is once I replace the bushing and snug up with the non-locking nut I have the nice gas shock ride for the ride home and back again next week.

The nuts have never come loose in 5 years of doing this, but I checked them constantly the first few times at the track and after I got home.

Ypu won't have any trouble mounting the 225's on an 8" wheel. the 225/70's and 275 60's are the same diameter and will help the handling and fill up your wheel wells.

The 4 speed bars are available from Hotchkiss and edelbrock and Dick Miller..In my opinion Very Important to have with a Big Block.

the 3500 converter will work very well, BUT the 4000 will be a little quicker.

I know your probably thinking Ok how much ET? I don't like to make such precise predictions so I will state facts and let you interpret a trend

468 motor 3.55 rear gears -
10" 2800 converter - 12.20's
swapped to a 10" 4200 - 11.70's nothing else changed

540 motor 3.42 rear gears -
9" 3200 converter - 11.20's
9" 4400 converter - 10.80's nothing else changed

These converters were all from the same manufacturer

For the last three years I have run a 4200-4400 flash converter on the street with no issues, now I have also tried tighter ones too and they do run nicer, quieter and cooler on the street, so it is really your choice.

Get an aluminum trans cooler, the radiator should be fine. consider an auxiliary electric fan to perform cool downs between passes.

My e-br@ck alum pump leaked on me after 2 seasons of use and 2000 street miles. I now run a cast iron GM crate motor take-off pump I bought for $10 brand new.