Im doing a frame up on a 1968 Chevelle Malibu and im getting ready to do the reaer suspension. Im running an Olds 10 bolt rear, 400 turbo trans. The motor is pretty stout and im unsure if im going to use nitrous or not. Its a 468, L34 427 heads, L88 cam, 1.7rr's, the heads have been ported quite extensively. also the block has been zero decked and the compression ratio is somewhere around 11.5:1 if i figured it correct. I was wondering if anyone is running lift bars or would you suggest using boxed lower control arms with adjustable uppers? My dad wants to run lift bars (his car, im just doing the restoration) and im trying to convince him otherwise. also i was wanting a suggestion on a stall converter. i was running a 3500 before and i never just seemed to be spot on.

thanks,
Nick

I have lift bars on my 69. About twenty years ago, I replaced the ladder bars that the car had on it when I bought it and put the lift bars on. They work great.

However, I'd put on the adj upper control arms (I have the Edlebrock ones), boxed lower arms, tubular braces, and polyurethane bushings all around and see if wheel hop is a problem. From what I've read and heard, it sounds like that usually takes care of the wheel hop issue. You can always add the no hop bars later.

I run the ssm style lift bars on my 66 chevelle.The ones I have carry the jegs name now.I am pretty satisfied with them.I run slicks on the car and it is a 10.90 car and havent had any wheel hop at all with these.I went to the sportsman races and noticed that alot of the cars are using the anti hop bars that look like a clamp on the rearend housing and goes into the uppers.These cars hook like nobodys business.On my 69 chevelle I may go the no hop bars and just box in my lowers.

I had some South Side Machine (now Lakewood or Jegs) lift bars on a ~375hp 1972 Ventura (nova). It had a 3.90 gear and a 700R4. The lift bars made a world of difference in how well it hooked. If I heated the tires, a set of 235/60/16 bfg drag radials hooked the car with no problem.

Adam

SSMs here,work good.Proper springs helped a lot also.I 2nd the adjustable uppers.What does the cam recommend for stall?

My car picked up ET when I took the SSM lift bars OFF. Hit the tires too hard on my car...

Lift bars on mine also. I have the Jegster brand and they hook great. My co-worker used the edelbrock bars that connect to the upper mounts and they work great also.

My dad wants to run lift bars (his car, im just doing the restoration) and im trying to convince him otherwise.

Why?

I had the upper and lower SSM bars on mine years ago and they worked fine. I think I went 1.45 in 60' with them going 10.30-40's.

I have SSM brand upper and lowers on my car. Never had a decent tire to try to hook, but my regular street tires still grab decent for what I have. Even in the rain I still can hook OK and not slide everywhere.

You can get the same effect by buying LCA relocation brackets. I baught a set of UMI lift bars for mine but they ended up not fitting my new strange s-60 rear. I was kinda mad about that, they were a bit pricey. I kept the tubular lca's and i got the lower control arm relocation brakets up for sale on ebay for 50 bucks if yur interested. you can use your stock lc's with em.

You can get the same effect by buying LCA relocation brackets. I baught a set of UMI lift bars for mine but they ended up not fitting my new strange s-60 rear. I was kinda mad about that, they were a bit pricey. I kept the tubular lca's and i got the lower control arm relocation brakets up for sale on ebay for 50 bucks if yur interested. you can use your stock lc's with em.But why exactly wouldn't the UMI lift bars fir your S-60 rear? Especially when their relocation brackets fit. I thought that those relocation brackets from UMI are simply the bracket pieces taken right from their lift bar kits. I'm curious, because I have that same rear end in my car. :confused:

But why exactly wouldn't the UMI lift bars fir your S-60 rear? Especially when their relocation brackets fit. I thought that those relocation brackets from UMI are simply the bracket pieces taken right from their lift bar kits. I'm curious, because I have that same rear end in my car.



So your saying your running the UMI lift bars on an S60? you are correct tho, the brackets are the same thats in the lift bar kits. On mine the shock mount hole was about an inch off vertically. Are you using the weld on kit? Cause that would have worked for me i know. i wonder if there are differencies in the shock mounts on the diff then, hmm.

So your saying your running the UMI lift bars on an S60? you are correct tho, the brackets are the same thats in the lift bar kits. I was saying that I have a Strange S-60 rear just as you do. I wasn't aware that the holes for the lower shock mounts are located in a different position. If that's true, then perhaps another hole can be drilled in the brackets that would be in alignment with the shock bracket holes on the S-60 rear. I have the UMI Pefformance relocating brackets, although I'm not sure if I'm going to use them or not. With the level of torque that my engine is capable of, I may need much heavier coil springs than the OE ones are with the use of lift bars.

Why?

im trying to get him to go with double adjustable uppers and lowers.

im trying to get him to go with double adjustable uppers and lowers. You can use lift bars with double adjustable uppers, and even with the lowers being adjustable, you can still use the UMI Performance relocation brackets which will effectively turn the lowers into lift bars, while still allowing adjustability for the length.

http://www.umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=17

i have the umi lca relocation brackets, with adjustable uppers, and stock boxed lowers, and i can't even come close to hooking.

i have the umi lca relocation brackets, with adjustable uppers, and stock boxed lowers, and i can't even come close to hooking.And what power level are you at? How about your stall speed and rear gears? If your power level is high (500+) my guess is that heavier coil springs and/or some adjustable rear shocks dialed up as stiff as they can go along with the lift bars/relocation brackets would be of help. But I wonder if anyone here here has actually tried that. It's just a guess on my part based on what I've heard.

I was saying that I have a Strange S-60 rear just as you do. I wasn't aware that the holes for the lower shock mounts are located in a different position. If that's true, then perhaps another hole can be drilled in the brackets that would be in alignment with the shock bracket holes on the S-60 rear. I have the UMI Pefformance relocating brackets, although I'm not sure if I'm going to use them or not. With the level of torque that my engine is capable of, I may need much heavier coil springs than the OE ones are with the use of lift bars.

Ohh gotcha. Yea i really wouldnt trust drilling new holes because the existing ones are in verry verry close relation with each other. you would have to weld a pach in those holes to be safe. either way, your goin to have to do some welding to put them on an s60:(

lakewood lift bars here.upper adjustables. hrpartsnstuff rear bar. moroso trick rear shocks. comp eng rear shocks set at 50/50.