Well I got my marks lined up right and everything back together. Compression was good, so Ive been trying to start it up. It turns over pretty good but no fire... I didnt over due it but the last couple times I tried turning it over it turned a couple times then the engine shakes a little bit and makes a loud snap, not really a backfire... almost a sound like the starter needs to be shimmed but maybe a little more nasty... I dont feel good about this one bit, I think im toast graemlins/sad.gif

STOP!
Do you know anyone in the area who can come over and give you a helping hand? You need someone with some good experience to look the thing over for you. Way to much time and $$$ invested to go about it like this.

I'll wait for my nieghbor to get off work hes an old wrencher, I have a gut feeling this thing is a nice new boat anchor.

Don't give up yet, you're close. Probably the distributor is in wrong after the cam timing change. take the #1 plug out, bump the engine over with the starter until you get compression against your finger in the hole. bump it real easy till the timing marks are lined up. then pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointed to the #1 plug wire. If it's not, fix it. you can just rotate the wires around on the cap in the same order they're in now, 18436572. Double check the order, especially #5 and #7. sometimes #4 and #6 can get mixed up too. Once you get this right it'll probably start right up.

Tom

oops, the distributor turns clockwise.

I pulled the dist. out, It's scary to even bump it over to verify #1, it sounds like grinding metal, it sounds REALLY pissed off.

I agree, sounds like 180 deg off.

nope...... 180 deg off doesn't sound like grinding metal... :confused:

When I try to bump it over it cranks just a hair, I really dont want to hold it down but it feels like its locked up, it may go if I hold down my remote starter but it doesnt feel right. I think I may be doomed...

Did you do an accurate compression test? Throttle blades held wide open and crank a couple seconds???

If you had any bent valves, you would have low compression on those cylinders.

Also, did you re-apply the cam break-in lube while you were correcting the cam timing? If you keep cranking without running, your lube is wiped off and you run the risk of wiping the cam during break in.

It sounded fine before, just low compression because of my timing error, I fixed it, didnt touch anything else. Sounded like it wanted to start, sounded real good actually, then it made some death sounds and doesnt really turn over, plus my fuel is orange-ish.

what type starter do you have? if it is a factory type they are bad about breaking nosehousing on innictional big block starts. you need at least 950 cranking amps hot battery also. and starter brace should be on,if not a bad thang can happen there. remove your flywheel dust cover and look at the starter nose. and flywheel teeth. and check the shimming of the starter. dont get in such a hurry now that you forget to have engine oil and water levels proper. good luck

If your fuel is orange in color it sounds like you have RUST in your fuel tank. This may have clogged your fuel filter and/or your carb's needle & seats.

i bet i know whats on his mind when he places his head on the pillow tonight. worries by the dozens hey you will get it just go slow and think ahead.

Id rather not be reminded about sleep tonight ;) I'm checking the starter as we speak... It is a stock starter.

Hey guys, Well im closing up shop for tonight. I pulled out the distributor and bumped it back over to #1, the battery may have been a hair shy on a full charge so I put it on the charger.... after I got everything back together I tried to fire it up, good and bad news, I think things may be fine... it got fire and roared like pure hell but when I took my hand off the key/IGN it killed right away, ive got a bug in my wiring now someplace, something isnt hot or something, my wire harness isnt that bad, but it does have a couple of stock chevy splices over the years.... Im tempted to mosey over the electrical and post but if you guys know much about the fuse block, IGN wire, ect... help me trace it down, things might be alright... theres still hope! smile.gif
well.... enough to sleep... and drink. Thanks for all the help today

Phil, what kind of distributor do you have?

Phil,
Did you recheck your piston to valve clearance after you fixed the cam timing issue?

Doc

Woo! The sites back up, I can breath again... Lookin' good... Well on this nice Sunday afternoon guess whos big block fired up AND RAN! Ouuuw! Hah, very exciting, I didnt run the cam break in for a full 20 minutes the engine got pretty hot need some more rad. fluid, it sounds insane... still have to trace down my wiring problems I had to run my distributor off a direct hot from the battery.... and my throttle cable/ kickdown... alot of small things... mainly I need to figure out this wiring problem... hopefully the rest of the break in goes well.

Oh yeah, It's a Mallory HEI Magnetic Coil... I think. Its the cheaper Mallory.

i am sure i'm not the only one in suspense here, what was the terriable grind that you had? great it ran! congats!

I hope all is good now Phil, I was waiting for some good news. Don't fool with the cam breakin. Get it done right without too many shut downs and no idleing. Keep us informed.

Cam break in went really smooth. Engine runs pretty hot though. It's about 85 Degrees outside, have an electric fan and aluminum radiator. I don't have a thermostat though, I never ran one on the small block.. not sure how terrible that is. Also I blocked off the waterpump to intake hose, I need a 45 degree angle fitting or something like that, I think if I get that hooked up it will drop alot... My wiring though... we're talking spagetti! This will take a few days... and of course some posts and pictures :)

Phil,
What is your initial timing set at? It should be around 14 or 15* BTDC. It may be running too retarded causing it to run hot. Also make sure that it iasn't too lean. What was all the bad grinding that you had the other day????

Phil,
Glad to hear you got her to fire. :) Make sure you don't idle it untill you get that cam broke in. :thumbsup: As far as the ignition problem, you said it only ran while you had the key in the start position. It could be, you only have a hot lead coming from your starter to the HEI. This was used on the point type distributors to give a full shot of voltage while cranking. You will also need to run a hot lead from the ignition side when the key is in the run position. Make sure this lead is only hot when the key is in the run position and not hot in the accessory or off positions.

Your car will warm up quicker (increases engine life) and run cooler with a thermostat. No good reason not to run one.

Yeah Phil, definitely get a thermostat in there!
The coolant really never has a chance to cool in the radiator if you leave the system wide open and continuously moving.

Sounds like you got the beast to roar - THOUGHT I heard a growl the other night off to the southwest!