Just got back from a 3 hour cruise around town and some backroads. Laid waste to a Civic and found a really really hot blonde and her friend in a red Z28 (4th gen).

Just curious what kinda times those turn on average with minor bolt ons. She at least had some Flowmasters. Was an auto and with an extra 350 lbs worth of friends with me, me and her were door to door till my 700 shifted to 3rd too soon (cant wait for my B&M).

Sure wish I could have followed her a ways in hope of chatting but I saw a parking lot full of 1st gen camaros and such so I dove off. graemlins/clonk.gif

Well the Ls1's are faster than the Lt1's. Most of the 6 speed LS1's run mid to low 13's and some guys are claiming high 12's with bolt ons. Go to ls1.com there is a ton of information.

Late Model Camaro's roll. '94 - '97 had LT1's w/ 275 - 285 Net factory ( that's = 335 - 345 by the old ratings), '98 and later LS1 cars were 305 net (365 - 370 Gross). With minor bolt ons and tweaks these cars are solid 13 second cars. We have a '94 Firebird Formula LT1 at home with headers, high flow cat and Dynomax Ultraflow Exhaust, reprogrammed comp, K&N filter, 6 speed w/ 3.43 rear gears. The car flies! Very docile at light throttle, but lay into it and it just launches forward. My guess is the '94 LT1 car as set up should run mid to low 13's. This is just seat of the pants, but it feels as quick or quicker than my '69 408 car which has gone 14.08/99 Mph with "0" traction.

Lt1 should run at best with exhaust and maybe cold air induction mid to high 13's. The LT1 is a better low end car than the LS1. This provided there is a good driver.

hey grn69chv, is there a certain conversion you used for that?

I had a '95 LT1 Z28 auto with 2.73 gears, flowmaster catback, cold air induction and BFG Dradradials and I ran a best of 13.8 in the quarter.

You ought to see chip guru Ed Wright's LT-1. 383 cubic inch, Automatic, F.I. and ATI converter in a firebird. ( 10.77 @ 123.9 on motor only) no juice. Not to shabby, huh?

It was fun, I wasn't sure if she was gonna lay into it at the light so I was only mildly prepared, heard her tires slip a little so I stuck it. Started pulling ahead just a lil after the 1-2 chirp then once 3rd gear came on she started pulling away very slowly.

She was grinning the whole time...

I'm thinking you should have gone and talked to her! You know....WTF.
One never knows when the girl of your dreams is slipping through your fingers......ok.....you would know. (the fingers part anyway.....)
Anyway, I myself am considering a late model Camaro....they are simply bad ass, get good mileage, and if Chev ever comes out with another one...I'll not be able to afford it. But for around $10k.......the used ones are available.
Now if they only came with cute blondes.....or redheads.....or brunettes!

Ron

Sure wish I could have followed her a ways in hope of chatting but I saw a parking lot full of 1st gen camaros and such so I dove off.
Are you sure you just didnt want to face the music :rolleyes: . The cars will always be there , you should have went for the girl ;) .
Maybe next time she'll let you win! Just razzin' ya man. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Young Gun, I assume you are referring to the SAE Net HP figures as compared to the old Gross ratings? No defined conversion, but the old rule of thumb was about 60 - 70 HP loss from gross HP for parasitic loss : Exhaust system. accesory drives (alternator, water pump, power steering pump, torque comverter, trans, underhood air, emissions tuning). Take a look at the 1971 HP ratings and the 1972 Hp ratings. This is when they changed from Gross HP to SAE Net as installed.

Thunderstruck, You probably never saw the original "Gumball Rally" movie. Forget the actress, but she is driving a high end sports car and tells the guys in the '55 Chevy (think that's right) " if you can catch me, you can have me". As only would happen in the movies, the hot chick runs out of gas. THe cowboys catch up.

Originally posted by hamrdown:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr /> Sure wish I could have followed her a ways in hope of chatting but I saw a parking lot full of 1st gen camaros and such so I dove off.
Are you sure you just didnt want to face the music :rolleyes: . The cars will always be there , you should have went for the girl ;) .
Maybe next time she'll let you win! Just razzin' ya man. graemlins/thumbsup.gif </font>[/QUOTE]:D

I'm sure I'll see her around, cause I'm gonna look. I don't have a problem with losing, I race for the fun of it, besides what could be sexier than a girl with a car that can run with you?

As far as buying a late model camaro, I never would. I've driven them and just don't like em. Hard to see out of and a lil too common for me. I have a total of about 7K in my Chevelle, for another 3k I could easily have it outrunning them plus some. Like I said, my shift timing and extra weight weren't helping things any...

What the hell is a Photon Gun?!?!?
-Is that what was used to kill the Stay Puft man?

LS1s can go mid 12s on bolt ons, i have a friend with 100 dry shot, and a converter change a K&N, and an SLP Loudmouth exhaust and he runs 11.89 i also had a friend with a 98Ls1 that ran 12.8 or 12.6 it was a T56 car with intake and exhaust work.
stock they are good for 13.8-13.6 with an auto trans.
LT1s are good for 14.2-14.1 but with afew bolt ons are good for mid-13s or so. with the LT1 ya really gotta know where to put the mod for it to be quite efficent. howver the 4thgens are abit heavier than a thirdgen

Net HP on LT1 is 295 and Net HP on LS1 is about 325-ish. normally more like 305.
Lt1s though i dont know the numbers are more torquey than the LS1. an LT1 will take a stock LS1 offa the line, with same ratios and trans and all, but the LS1 will eat it up after 1/8th mile.

i wouldnt buy a 4th gen, too much of a pain, i can explain if youd like me to, just say so.


iunno, i know late model Fbodys real well from 82-02. so if anyone ever needs help with that stuff, come after me, maybe i can help

Originally posted by BB_Mike:
What the hell is a Photon Gun?!?!?
-Is that what was used to kill the Stay Puft man? Yes it is, I made 3 of them from wood and random computer parts and stuff.

Sold one for $800, one for $600 and I still have one I'm gonna sell eventually. Nerds buy some stupid stuff but it funds my car parts so I can't diss it too much.

Isnt this kinda a back door approch to talk about street racin? :D

Whats wrong with that?

What kinda conversation is better than one that combines having fun with a car and an attractive female?

:D

Originally posted by BruteSBC:
[QB]i wouldnt buy a 4th gen, too much of a pain, i can explain if youd like me to, just say so.
Yes I'd like for you to explain. I've been wanting to buy a 4th gen car for awhile now. I need something to compete.

i have a stock 93 LT1 Z28 for sale, if anyone is interested. sell it real cheap too, i just don't have the room for it anymore, got 6 vehicles and need to sell about 2 or 3 of them. i ran this car at an 1/8mi track one time and it ran a 9.05@80mph with an air temp of 90 deg and humidity at 95%. not too shabby, i didn't think. it's 700r4 tranny and i believe 3.23 or 3.42 gears. like to get $4000 for the car. any takers??

Originally posted by dirty_dawg:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by BruteSBC:
[QB]i wouldnt buy a 4th gen, too much of a pain, i can explain if youd like me to, just say so.
Yes I'd like for you to explain. I've been wanting to buy a 4th gen car for awhile now. I need something to compete. </font>[/QUOTE]I'm sure someone else will have more insight, but aside from having trouble seeing out of them and driving them in the rain, there's a big downside to having the engine lodged halfway underneath the windshield and dashboard.

I've found working on them to be a lot of hassle, but they can be fun cars for someone who is used to them I suppose. I just can't get over my lack of visability in the front and when its dark i can barely tell there is a rear window.

well for starters, GM had this great idea in 93-97 LT1s...optispark, up to 96 they were unvented, which is really awesome because the waterpump is located RIGHT ONTOP of it haha. and from mid96 (i think) on to 97 there were vented optis, which would dry out and hopefully be ok god forbid anysort of moisture got in em. there are alot of people on fbody.com that had some opti problems, people replace them 5 or 6 times so far, and it takes about 3-4 hrs to replace. however some people are at 100K with the original, not a whole lot though. its cam driven btw.
plugs and wires on that car.....afew hours, not like our carb cars that take us all of 20 mins. oh yeah, Headers take a long ass time too. then your also dealing with a 4L60-E(700R4) trans which under some power, can blow kinda easy, where i used to work, wed see it all the time. they used electronic Detents on most of them. oh yeah, and anytime you do any sort of mod to it, you have to reflash the computer. another thing is the reverse flow cooling system the coolant goes through the heads before it goes through the block, so its prone to run abit more hot than you might be used to, but its ok a thermostat can fix that. some are prone to overheating though. they are quite hard to see in in the rain. the interior is pretty comfterble, i know afew people that have Ttops that leak in them (as with alot of Ttop cars haha) and switch to OBDII after a year or two i believe. but some people convert to OBDII from OBDI and thats the LT1's, what i can think of now anyways.
the V6 3.8L. - good little motor, 200 hp, smooth engine. Y87 package is the performance package (tires and posi and gearing) however the 3.4L 60* v6 that they used till like 94 or 95 was crap. 140 hp, pain in the ass stupid little motor. the 3800 series takes some people afew hours to do plugs on, however i have a friend with a stock heads cam rotating assemb. running juice, weight reduction, intake and exhaust and afew other things running mid 12s. so it can take some abuse. they can also withstand some boost. i can go further on the v6 if youd like, just ask for it. uses the same body as LT1s/LS1s
LS1 - Great motor, alot of power to be had, responds very well to modification and sounds real damn sweet. not reverse flow cooling system anymore - good. oil pump is in the front of the motor on this, you can actually get to it by taking off the timing cover. awesome. cam swap? SIMPLE. ya dont even have to take off the intake manifold and heads, you can actually turn the cam afew times and set it in one spot and the lifters get 'stuck' in the block for like 5-10 mins. pull out the old cam swap in the new, bolt up and go. its awesome. imagine a lifter falling though haha. however, you have to reflash the computer everytime you mod it, as with the LT1s. coil packs are on these engines, which has its goods and bads, i can go into that if someone would like. Piston ring problems. ive seen LS1s with 30K goin through 2 qts between oil changes. there are some piston ring problems with them, i guess the gap is bad or something. some people never burn oil, some people burn it way to much at a low milage. there is also some piston slap to be heard, but that ccould be a different story about them. Aluminum heads, and some Aluminum blocks. there was some mess up where they made too many vette blocks and started using them in some of the LS1 style Fbodies. plastic intake manifold as opposed to the LT1 short runner design, great. parts for LS1s are REAL expensive. parts for LT1s are just about in the same boat. backed by the 4L60-e trans, its electronically controlled as the LT1 trans' are.
both some late LT1 and the LS1 cars had the option of the T-56 6 speed. we all know about this ; ) and the earlier LT1s had a T5 option as well, with gearing to match it obviously.

i can add more but im tiard of thinking right now, lemme know if ya wanna know more.

im pretty sure all my facts are right, i dont wanna start any beef if one of them is wrong or if you dont like anything i said, im just telling you what ive seen from the ones ive been around.

mike

My 97 Z28 383 LT1 will run right with my Chevelle. smile.gif

Watch out for that B&M kit in that 700. Mine held up for over a year of hard driving with smog heads and a Crane 272 cam (very similar to your cam), but once I put the Vortecs and slightly bigger solid cam, (aka "a bit more torque") it was toast in a short time. After that I had to pay big bucks for a pro built 700R4.

Originally posted by cjlandry:
Watch out for that B&M kit in that 700. Mine held up for over a year of hard driving with smog heads and a Crane 272 cam (very similar to your cam), but once I put the Vortecs and slightly bigger solid cam, (aka "a bit more torque") it was toast in a short time. After that I had to pay big bucks for a pro built 700R4. Shift kit is a transgo actually. My dad built it to be as sturdy as possible without breaking the bank though, the B&M I was referring to is a shifter, my stock shifter will not go farther down than 3rd. Lil unsure why it shifted itself as soon as it did, I must have let off the gas just a fraction of enough let it shift or something...

the B&M in the 700 at least i know requires you to replace springs with rods and drill holes in the valvebody, it Rouins those trans'. they even shift hard at light throttle. some peoples last years, but most dont last long at all
best "shift kit" for the 700 is by far TransGo. where you actually replace balls, springs and such i think in one of my projects im gonna get a 700 with a transgo and just manually lock up the converter

Originally posted by BruteSBC:
the B&M in the 700 at least i know requires you to replace springs with rods and drill holes in the valvebody, it Rouins those trans'. they even shift hard at light throttle. some peoples last years, but most dont last long at all
best "shift kit" for the 700 is by far TransGo. where you actually replace balls, springs and such i think in one of my projects im gonna get a 700 with a transgo and just manually lock up the converter Mine with the stage 2 transgo has a nice firm shift at light throttle but not brutal like the 350 was. When you romp it it will turn the tires prolly half a turn on smooth pavement when it hits second.

I too have a manual lockup switch under the dash, works well. I have 3.08 gears so on thehighway with the converter locked and in overdrive I can drive 60 barely above idle. Cruising 80 and 90 is just as easy...

I really like it now that the bugs are out, just want to be able to shift it myself too, still goes to 3rd a little quicker than I would like.

There is a lot of misinformation about here. 95 was the first year of the vented opti spark. Also most are switching to OBD1 FROM OBD2, easier to program. As far as working on them, it is different but not difficult. I changed my opti once because it had a miss in it, turned out to be the air pump that was the problem and there was a recall on that.
Mine is convertible with a very small rear window but if you know how to drive it isnt a problem. A very fun car, I love mine. Almost any car built in the last 10 years has a sloping nose, you just get used to it.
BTW mine just turned over to 200,000 miles. The only real problem is the rear end, it's a 7 1/2 inch ring gear and is pretty weak, I've broken mine 3 times, but it's a 6 speed and I really beat on it. Still has original clutch, I replaced the brakes the first time at 150000 miles.
As far as driving in the rain, no problem, we get a lot of rain here and I drive it every day all year round. Mine has a few bolt ons and runs mid 13s and gets 26 mpg driving to work and back, 30mpg on the highway with 3.42 gears.
95 Z28 convertible.

I'm wanting an LS1 car.....those are bad azz IMO. Not too fond of an LT1 car but I've heard the '95 was the best year.

I just recently helped a friend put longtube headers on his '95 Z28. HOLY COW what a chore!!! I will never do that again!. Here's a sampler of the fun...we had to undo the transmission mount and let the motor hang down on the motor mounts, then use a pry bar to force it to one side or the other slightly while the other person wrestles the header in from underneath.

We spend 2 days on this, and that was just to take the old exhaust off and get the headers in, didn't count re-assembly of everything we had to take off to do the job.

I did a shorty Edelbrock header/exhaust install on the '94 car. 6 hours total. The key to working on these cars is simple: prepare to remove certain items - starter, alternator for instance; attain a few different tools more specific to the job other than traditional open/box wrenchs and sockets. A good set of metric wrenches/sockets, univeral socket extension, and a couple of ratchet (geared) flat wrenches [ 10MM for the header bolts by the way ].

No its not a '69 SBC motor, but if you can work on an import without being intimidated, there is no reason you can't work on these. My son's '94 car only has 53K on it and runs great. Next year when he is away at college, the car will be left home and will get parked. We will probably pull the motor sometime in the fall over a weekend and go through it, maybe do a 383 LT1 based motor over the course of the fall - spring.

yeah i thought some of the info might have been off, i was close though right? just afew things mixed up.
then again though i dont go saying that stuff everyday haha

yeahhhh im a toyota tech, but they are actually my fav car to work on asside from anything with a carb SBC in it