I need help on deciding which position to install my cam in...either straight up or 2degrees advanced. Car is a 1966 2dr 300 sedan, 383 with 10-1 CR, 700-R4, 3:50 rear gears and 27" tire.
Let me know what you think, and why.
Thanks,
TXCR13

Just go with it straight up. The cam manufacturers straight up is actual 4 degrees advanced. Get confirmation on this from others on here though to verify my post.

You will need to evaluate the intake closing points at advertised duration and figure your dynamic compression from their. For a good street package shoot for 8:1 dynamic.

I need help on deciding which position to install my cam in...either straight up or 2degrees advanced. Car is a 1966 2dr 300 sedan, 383 with 10-1 CR, 700-R4, 3:50 rear gears and 27" tire.
Let me know what you think, and why.
Thanks,
TXCR13

I wouldn't advance the cam on a 2-door sedan as much as a 4-door. A 4-door is a little heavier and could use a bit more bottom end.

so far nobody here asks what cam it is before offering advice?

so far nobody here asks what cam it is before offering advice?

Where does the cam card say to put it?

PDQ, pretty much summed it up that not all cam manufactors cut advance into their cams so you need to know who's cam it is. Comp and Udharolds cams are the ones I am aware of that have 4° built in so otherwise , they would go in straight up.

BUT, if it's a Harold/Vodoo cam, Harold always suggested putting his solid lifter cams in 6 degrees advanced (4 is typically built in, so put it in 2 degrees more advanced) for "free" HP.

Bottom line, what cam is being installed, does it have built in advance and what are the cam's specs?

so far nobody here asks what cam it is before offering advice?

Exactly what I was thinking as I read thru.

Comp and Udharolds cams are the ones I am aware of that have 4° built in

Not always true....Comp's custom grinds are ground with no advance.

You really have to know what you're dealing with before you do this. Also, what are you using the car for, where will it see the most use? Do you have tight piston/valve clearances? All these things have to be looked at, because advancing the cam will change them to a degree.

[QUOTE=Rich-L79;1533101]BUT, if it's a Harold/Vodoo cam, Harold always suggested putting his solid lifter cams in 6 degrees advanced (4 is typically built in, so put it in 2 degrees more advanced) for "free" HP./QUOTE]

That a direct quote ?
Normally if your advancing a cam 6°'s ,you've chosen the wrong cam.
Harold ??

[QUOTE=Rich-L79;1533101]BUT, if it's a Harold/Vodoo cam, Harold always suggested putting his solid lifter cams in 6 degrees advanced (4 is typically built in, so put it in 2 degrees more advanced) for "free" HP./QUOTE]

That a direct quote ?
Normally if your advancing a cam 6°'s ,you've chosen the wrong cam.
Harold ??


Not Harold, BUT search function works real well here. HERE (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1466803&highlight=cam+advance#post1466803) is what he says about advancing it.

And HERE (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?p=764794&highlight=cam+advance#post764794) is another posting of his about it.

Thanks for all the replies. There definitely is a lot of knowledge out there amongst you guys.
My cam is a UD Harold design, 223 deg intake and 233 deg exhaust duration at .050 lift, with 112 deg centerline. .480" intake and .510" exhaust lift. The car will be street driven, don't intend to spin it more than 6,000 max rpms.
I havent received the cam yet, so don't know what advance, if any, is ground in. I will check the cam card for sure, and go from there.
Thanks again for everyone's help!
TXCR13

BUT, if it's a Harold/Vodoo cam, Harold always suggested putting his solid lifter cams in 6 degrees advanced (4 is typically built in, so put it in 2 degrees more advanced) for "free" HP.

That a direct quote ?
Normally if your advancing a cam 6°'s ,you've chosen the wrong cam.
Harold ??

As a matter of fact, yes (as you can see by the link provided above). When I bought my 276/284 solid lifter BBC cam I spoke with him directly and he said just that, put it in 6 degrees advanced for an additional 15-25 horsepower in my application. I'm sure Harold knows more about his cams than anyone else so I took his advice.

Rich ,was this with stock FT pistons ?
What kind of valve clearance did that leave you with ?

Flat tops? No, I'm using 30cc mini-domes with open chamber large oval heads modified for big valves. Valve clearances checked out just fine.

Install it straight up and degree the cam!!! And by the way not all cam manufacturers build in 4 degrees advance. I know ISKY tends to stray away from that practice. Not sure about the others though. Regardless...DEGREE THE CAM WHEN YOU INSTALL IT.