im planning on running a battery kill switch so i have to run two batteries, one for the alarm and the other for the rest of the car, and i was wondering how i would charge my alarm battery since it wont get charged, wouldnt it die all the time? how can i set it up to work? any help would help me alot, thanks guys.:thumbsup:

Two full size automobile batteries?

yeah or could i do it another way? i plan on putting both in the smugglers area.

What kind of switch are you going to use and why?

i wanted to use one of those keyed swithes from HELLA . that way i can kill all the power, when im not driving it. but then i wouldnt have anypower to run my car alarm.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLA%2D002843011&N=700+4294925143+400152+115&autoview=sku

i wanted to use one of those keyed swithes from HELLA . that way i can kill all the power, when im not driving it. but then i wouldnt have anypower to run my car alarm.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLA%2D002843011&N=700+4294925143+400152+115&autoview=sku

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/content/Item/01/29/70/i012970sq02.jpg

How about a Perko dual battery selector switch with a key lock?

hmm thats cool. well i was planning on putting both batteries in the smugglers area, having the key kill switch, then putting a steel plate across the hole from in the cab with another lock. then i was also planning on putting a hidden toggle switch in the cab..


how well is the lock made on that?

also what would be the best way to add fuses to be safe just in sace of a short or something?.... inline fuses?

I guess I might find out the current draw for the alarm system and find out if you could use a smaller battery. I have a hard time believing an alarm draws more than a tenth of an amp.

Or Maybe setup a relay with a timer (off delay) to charge the aux battery for the first 5 min the car was running.

The hot tip for an alarm battery is one of the small motorcycle sized gel cell batterys. As for charging, use a "battery seperator" like is used for trailers and campers. That way both batterys are being charged when you are driving but the batterys are seperated when the car is starting or turned off. In fact, there are some 12 to 15 pound gel cell batterys that you can use to start and run the car also. They are small and can be mounted anywhere and in any position. Even up-side down.

http://www.odysseyfactory.com/specs.htm

The PC680 will work for the alarm side and the PC925 will work for the start and run side.

They're small with lots of power. Don't worry about the cold cranking ratings. These batterys are used in commercial alarm systems and with electronics and are rated way differently than normal car batterys.

"Battery isolator" is what dyno jonn is talking about. They look like this:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2006119/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2006119/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=battery+isolator

You can run batteries of different amperage, and they don't discharge into each other as long as they both are 12 volt batteries.
Then you can use a battery cutoff for the main battery and the power of the alarm battery isn't available for starting or for any accessory you don't want it available for.
The isolator will see that both batteries are charged when the engine runs.
I've had one in my daily driver pickup for 20 years, and it works great.

AH! awesome guys! thanks so much! that will help me tons! and help cut the weight down. and also keep both batteries charged! hahaha :thumbsup: