Hey guys, some of you know about alittle 280z that I picked up with the plans to shoehorn a nicely built 454 under the hood.

Here are a few details:

http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=4&t=020031#000000

So, I got a 454 block picked out (2 bolt) and I am starting to collect the rest of the needed pieces.

Before I go any farther, do you guys think a 2 bolt studded block will hold up to 7000 RPM shifts? Assuming I am using good rods, forged pistons, etc. I highly doubt I'll spin it that high, prob 6500 max.

Thanks guys!!

Quote fom Cable,
" Before I go any farther, do you guys think a 2 bolt studded block will hold up to 7000 RPM shifts? Assuming I am using good rods, forged pistons, etc."

Yeah, maybe more. Been doing it for three years now. with that cam, lashed tight, you'll be shifting at 6500-6700 anyway, absolutely no problem. I'm running a 7K chip now and am embarassed at how many times I hit it. Anyway, don't chince on the machining or balancing, and depending on budget, opt for lightweight slugs.

Go ahead and use studs. When you build it for the first time the added expense is only for the studs. If you are going to run a 2500 convertor use a 3spd auto not a glide but there is no reason to use a 400 in that light a car. Get a 350 built by a good builder you will be happy.

Charlie Westin of Westin machine in NJersey recomended ARP bolts to me for that light duty of an application.

Originally posted by 427L88:
Yeah, maybe more. Been doing it for three years now. with that cam, lashed tight, you'll be shifting at 6500-6700 anyway, absolutely no problem. I'm running a 7K chip now and am embarassed at how many times I hit it. Sounds good Gene!! I am having the block machined for 4 bolt mains/studs anyway. It can't hurt..


Originally posted by Mike Feudo:
Go ahead and use studs. When you build it for the first time the added expense is only for the studs. If you are going to run a 2500 convertor use a 3spd auto not a glide but there is no reason to use a 400 in that light a car. Get a 350 built by a good builder you will be happy. Honestly I decided on what tranny I am going to with. BUILT 'glide for $600, all hard-parts replaced.

Here's the engine/tranny/rear combo:

Up Top:

-Aluminum GM '074 Rect Port BBC Heads, 2.19/1.88" SS valves
-Crane "Bulk" .650" lift springs
-UltraDyne-Lunati Solid Flat Tappet 288/296 F10: .612/.630" lift, 288/296 adv, 255/263 dur@0.50", 110 LSA
-Oil Pin Solid Lifters
-3/8's One-Piece Chromemoly Welded Pushrods
-1.72:1 Comp Magnum Roller Rockers
-Victor Jr. Single Plane Intake
-850 cfm Holley Double Pumper
-GM HEI Dist w/Crane LX-2 Fireball Coil
-Crane HI-6 Ignition


Suspension/Brakes/Tranny:

-Competition Engineering 4-Link Kit, Tubbed
-At least a 10 point roll cage installed
-Front 11" Upgraded Vented Disc Brakes
-Fuel Cell
-Adjustable Coilover suspension w/adjustable shocks/struts
-Built Powerglide Tranny
-3000 RPM Stall Converter (ATI, TS, or Coan)
-28x14.5x15" Hoosier QT Slicks for Drag Racing
-Narrowed 9" Rear End, Moser 35 spline axles, Detroit 35 spline locker, 3.50?? gear set

"I dont need crazy-sick horsepower, just excessive horsepower...."

Only until the dreaded, "more power, Scottie" bug bikes!!

It's contagious from what the Big Boys tell me...

He, He!! pdq67

Hey Cable, I don't want to start a big debate my friend, but something other than oval ports would still work as good IMHO, in a light car. Keep an open mind.
I know everyone here wants to build torque motors, but nothing wrong with a horsepower motor if you gear it to let it do it's higher end work.

Whoops, never mind, I see you're running a mild gear.

Originally posted by pdq67:
"I dont need crazy-sick horsepower, just excessive horsepower...."

Only until the dreaded, "more power, Scottie" bug bikes!!

It's contagious from what the Big Boys tell me...

He, He!! pdq67 Yup, and that's when the nitrous system shows up to cure by 'bug bite'. :D


Originally posted by 427L88:
Hey Cable, I don't want to start a big debate my friend, but something other than oval ports would still work as good IMHO, in a light car. Keep an open mind.
I know everyone here wants to build torque motors, but nothing wrong with a horsepower motor if you gear it to let it do it's higher end work.

Whoops, never mind, I see you're running a mild gear. As far as the gears, yes they "seem" mild, but when you are running a 27" street tire (295/50/15), they seem alot shorter. I haven't decided on which gear set to go with, suggestions?

Use the big ports it will still make more torque than you need and will run much better higher up without using a huge cam.

Originally posted by 427L88:
Hey Cable, I don't want to start a big debate my friend, but something other than oval ports would still work as good IMHO, in a light car. Keep an open mind.
I know everyone here wants to build torque motors, but nothing wrong with a horsepower motor if you gear it to let it do it's higher end work.

Whoops, never mind, I see you're running a mild gear. Hey Gene, what intake/carb are you running?

I'm still using the 3X2, but have two GM alums in the wings, one marine ( dual flange), and one pristine old 163, in case I go back to a 4bbl.

Originally posted by 427L88:
I'm still using the 3X2, but have two GM alums in the wings, one marine ( dual flange), and one pristine old 163, in case I go back to a 4bbl. Should of known. How much CR are you running?

What has been your best quarter mile times? Slicks? If so, what size?

Cable, I've run THREE 1/4s with the car, i.e., not much practice. Best ET was 12.24 with a 2.10 60', need to shave about.3 off that 60'!


Anyway, more importantly to you, at 10.51:1 compression, the cam phased +7, the car will run anywhere from 117 to 119 mph depending on weather. If I knew the car's weight, I could guess at HP, but its a restored full metal car with a heavy tranny, mufflers and a 250lbs driver.

At work we have a set of #215 BBC closed chamber oval port heads, unported, 2.19/1.88 one peice stainless valves with cut down stems, and valve job done with stones (no serdi).
Bigger springs and cut for .501 seals. they are assembled complete with springs, stainless one peice valves and seals.

Email me if you are interested and i will send pictures and details.

If youre going to use studs on the main,shouldnt you Linehone the block? :confused:

yep.

I would align hone it reguardles, for a performance application, but i'm over the top with prep most of the time.

Install your crank as normal, but spin it as you do it and that will tell you if it needs line-honed real quick!!

Mine was fine doing it this way when I put my studs in and then installed my 4.25" crank..

pdq67

Hey Cable,

Did you consider having a set of stock GM 3/8 rods refreshed with ARP bolts? I'm just wondering for my own sake, as I have a 427 in the works too....

Cable, also, don't let Old Red's ETs sway you. They're not great. And I'm not here to coach you on head selection. All I can tell you unequivocally,is, it might seem small, but its spot on for a 6500 rpm 427. while I do lash the cam down tight, and have it plugged in nearly +7, still, I don't seem to feel any power fade at 66-6700 rpm.

On the street if you go WOT, the tires break loose at around 5200 rpm, round-a-bout peak header torque. Have to pull 2nd right away! Great power from that grind.

Originally posted by 70L34:
Hey Cable,

Did you consider having a set of stock GM 3/8 rods refreshed with ARP bolts? I'm just wondering for my own sake, as I have a 427 in the works too.... If I can find a set of cheap "truck" rods I will go that route. I have run 3/8's rods to 7000 RPM before, no problems.

I think the weak link with stock rods is the bolts, not so much the rods. Rod bolt tech has changed with huge leaps over the last 30 years.

Hey Gene, what rods are you running?

The same rods that came in the 1972 L88 crate. That's the only part left! Crank was busted up pretty good, my buddy went to a 2 bolt block 2 rebuilds ago.

This is funny, so I buy this L88 engine for, I think it was $650, no intake, in 1977 ( I was 16 and working my arse off ). Anyway, I go to a local racer looking for an intake ( Mason Racin' I remember), and the guy says he wants to buy those rods, and offers me a set of 3/8 rods AND $250 bucks. Hmm, that's an intake AND carb I'm thinking, but I didn't wnat to pull the ol L88 apart like that.

Ironically, those old 7/16" rods, that I mirror polished , are all that remains from that old crate 88 motor. ( still have the 4 bolt block in a barn as well).

They Mag'd OK, rebushed the small end, resized the rods after installing ARP wavelocs. I can still see my teeth in the beams! Those old 7/16" rods w/boron bolts are TOUGH~!

You'll be fine with 3/8" rods I should think.

I might go for 427 if I can't find a 454 crank for the right price. Today I scored a forged steel 427 crank for $20. Its currently 10/10 (needs polishing). Its being mag'd as well right now. I'll know tomorrow for sure, but the machinist didn't think its would be a problem.


I am still hoping for a 454, but we'll see.

I have plenty of sets of truck rods at $75 per set. Email me if interested at bbc427rat@cox.net. I also have several sets of heads including open, closed and semi-closed, price varies.

Originally posted by MyBoTy:
I have plenty of sets of truck rods at $75 per set. Email me if interested at bbc427rat@cox.net. I also have several sets of heads including open, closed and semi-closed, price varies. Thanks. I think I've already made a deal on some rods.

I might be interested in some heads, but I worry the shipping alone will kill me. What would shipping be to Hanford, Ca. 93230 on set of bare or complete heads?

Cable I e-mailed you the info you requested on the rods.
Hey, if you come across anymore $20 BBC forged cranks, pick me up a dozen or so will ya? :D

Originally posted by Epistuff:
Hey, if you come across anymore $20 BBC forged cranks, pick me up a dozen or so will ya? :D No problem.


I just picked the crank up from the machine shop and its good to go.

TTT

Originally posted by 427L88:
Anyway, don't chince on the machining or balancing, and depending on budget, opt for lightweight slugs. Looks like I will going to build a 454 afterall. I just bought a complete 454 rotating mass from 'Epistuff'. The pistons are L2399's, I don't know if they are the 'lightweight' slugs you are talking about, but the price is right.

About balancing, I always balance my motors, from stock rebuilds to full race, its just something I don't skimp on. I also have my motors honed with a deck plate, just one more way to keep the rings sealed.


Originally posted by 427L88:
Hey Cable, I don't want to start a big debate my friend, but something other than oval ports would still work as good IMHO, in a light car. Keep an open mind.
Well Gene, I am going with a set of '074" aluminum heads that I just bought.

Is this the same heads you have? If so, any port work, etc?

My buddy who had my old L88 for years did some intake port work Cable, but you know, I'm not sure whether that's good or bad? They look pretty hogged out, adn the bbc guru who fixed the broken ex boss said they looked good ( for $300 he said he could weld up the exhaust floors and flow them , but for a street car - I left it alone).

The heads won't make any power until the engine is hot. Unlike most racer who like cool water and hot oil temps,you'll want 190degree water temps for power, for sure. You'll see!

Also, don't be afraid to run a decently-sized carb on there, 830 cfm would be perfect, 850 DP would do, and I suspect, ET faster than a 750 or 800 cfm carb. After some fine tuning obviously.

I am planning on at least a 850 DP Gene, especially since I am building a 454 now. I am still going to use the ZL-1 heads though.

http://www.chevelles.com/cgi-bin/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=4&t=020539#000014

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As far as intakes, I am stuck between the Weiand Xcellator (sp?) and the Victor Jr.

I like the low-pro of the Weiand, but I'll run the Vic if I'll make more power.

What do you guys think is better?

Oops, double post.

I have not heard to many good things about the Weiand Excellator as far as power goes.

If you are going to use a single plane, I'd go with the Victor Jr. If hood clearance is an issue than I do believe that the Holley Strip Dominator is abit shorter than the Jr.

Thanks Darren, I will be adding my own cowl to the stock hood. I think I'll have enough room.

If your interested, I've got a set of never been used 7/16 rods out of my 510 big block. I'll let them go for 250 bucks. I decided to use Callies pro mod rods because my 510 is gona make 750 hp N/A and 1000 on nitrous. These rods do not use the stronger boron bolts. My email is Kermit.stanbach@us.army.mil

Thanks for the offer, but I got a nice set of truck 3/8 rods, beams polished, ARP Wave-Loc bolt, etc.

Again, thanks for the offer.

Martyr,

Where were those head 3 months ago? :mad: I have the worst luck!

IF YOU NEED header gaskets for those heads, i have a set new (found out they wouldn't work on my heads as soon as i opened the package) pay for shipping and they are yours smile.gif felpro's i think good gaskets..

Originally posted by chev-hell:
IF YOU NEED header gaskets for those heads, i have a set new (found out they wouldn't work on my heads as soon as i opened the package) pay for shipping and they are yours smile.gif felpro's i think good gaskets.. From the factory these heads had round exhaust ports. However, they were modified sometime ago to the more desired D-port design.

At this point, I am not sure which header gaskets to use.

well, if you do need the round ones ihave em... the wouldn't work on my canfields....