I currently have a 350 Goodwrench (hecho in Mexico) shortblock, a set of TFS G1 heads and have been running a Lunati 280 duration hydraulic. Car runs mid-high 13 but is traction limited. I often drive the car to work in Houston traffic with the occassional trip to the strip. I'm looking for some suggestions that will give me the most bang for the least buck. Goals for this project, that I could use some help with, are:
1) Camshaft that will work well with the G1 heads
2) Strengthen the shortblock with a forged rotating assembly.
3) Increase compression ration to about 10.5:1 and optimize the quench

I'm undecided on the shortblock. If I do all the machine work and buy an all new forged rotating assembly, what is the incremental cost to build a 383? Or buy an assembled 383 or 406?

My apologies to those that frequent Camaros.net - I've posted this there also...

I'll ask the same question here - what's wrong with the setup you have?

onovakind67, there is nothing "wrong" with the current setup. But while I've got it out of the car working on the front end, I got the bug to tweak it a bit. smile.gif

1. If those heads have the best flow at .600 and flow VERY close to that at .500 like I think they do (someone please verify), then get a cam with .500 lift or over and you should be fine. To recommend the duration of your cam or a grind in particular we'll need more information on your combo. Like your engine size, transmission, gear ratio, compression ratio, tire size, intended cruise RPM, and whether you prefer hydraulic or solid.

2. Since this is mainly a street application, and you're on a budget, you won't need a forged bottom end. Just have yout rotating assembly balanced well and you won't have any problems. You can recondition those rods too... or get a set of scat rods. As long as you're not spraying it then you should have no worries.

3. A 383 doesn't cost much more to build than a 350. And a 400 doesn't cost much more to build than a 383. You can reuse everything from your 350 except for the crank, pistons, oil pan, flywheel/balancer (unless it's internally balanced), and the block of course. You can even reuse the valvetrain as long as all the pieces go back in the same locations.

Thanks Casey,

Can you give me an idea of the difference in machine work cost to clearance the block for a 383? That is the direction that I'm currently leaning towards. Current trans is a T5 which has served me well. After I blow it up, I'm planning on swapping in a Tremac 5 speed. Rear gear is 3:73. Tire diameter is 26.3", not concerned about cruise rpm with either trans. Solid or Hydraulic - no preference.

I've never paid anyone to clearance a 383. It's not all that difficult and doesn't take too long either.

If I were the one choosing the cam then I would pick the comp cams hydraulic XE284H and stick with 10:1 compression and a .040" quench for safety. The reason is that it's a street car and is driven in traffic often. You could probably get away with 10.5:1, but make sure you have your quench on the tight side. If you want a solid cam and don't mind setting your lash on occasion, then I would go with the comp cams solid XS282S-10. The solid cam will give you more bottom and more top end, idle smoother, and rev faster. Either one of these cams will give you a pretty nice sounding idle and you might be able to get away with power brakes. The solid cam will idle smoother and rev quicker.

I'm somewhat partial to comp cams, but there are many other manufacturers out there. Try contacting lunati (holley), isky, crane, crower, etc.

I agree. That comp solid cam Fried-Guy reccomended should run great under those heads and with 10:1 compression......and on top of a 383 rotating assembly. If you cant go 383, it will still do the job in a 355 but Id step it up if you can.