: Body Mounts on a 1970 Chevelle
Chevelle4pres Oct 11th, 07, 6:43 PM Im currently removing the body from the frame and I seem to have come across a problem. I thought I had removed all body mounts, but I still cant remove the body from the frame. If anyone has a diagram or may know where I might be missing some mounts please let me know.:yes:
aukai Oct 11th, 07, 7:14 PM Did you get the ones under the firewall bulkhead? If the car is on jack stands there are acess holes for all mounts that you can follow going up the frame rails plus the radiator support mounts.
LateNight72 Oct 11th, 07, 7:44 PM I was using this for another discussion about half a year ago. Disregard the red arrow.
http://xs206.xs.to/xs206/06383/bushings1.jpg
b-man Oct 11th, 07, 11:43 PM mount #4.. the ones under the rear seat... (need to cut metal back to expose bolt)
gUmBaLL68Malibu Oct 13th, 07, 1:44 PM I remember 10 donuts when i did the 68.
Donnie1 Oct 14th, 07, 10:25 AM mount #4.. the ones under the rear seat... (need to cut metal back to expose bolt)
and why do you need to do that?
it bolts from the bottom not the top.
dittoz Oct 16th, 07, 3:37 PM and why do you need to do that?...
Because when the bolt snaps off from being frozen in there, you have to weld a new nut inside the floor-pan !:yes:
joeyv69ragtop Oct 16th, 07, 4:53 PM I wonder if Joel ever figured out his problem? :confused:
forever young Oct 16th, 07, 9:21 PM I will be doing the same thing very shortly. Then how do you get the new nut in when the old rusty bolt and nut snap off?
rubadub Oct 16th, 07, 9:35 PM Its a square nut inside a cage, its made so the nut can move around inside the cage, but the cage isn't a lot bigger then the nut, otherwise the nut would turn.
You go inside the car looking down at the floor, and you can cut a U shape in the metal and kind of peel it back, then spread the sides of the cage, like the top of the cage back a little, then pull out the nut with the broken bolt out.
You can reuse the nut, just put it in a vise and maybe some pb blaster and get the broken bolt out, or if you have a torch heat it up.
I usually run the same size tap through the nut, clean the threads up a little, you want the new body bolt to turn freely .
Then put the nut back in the cage, and bend the pieces of metal back to where they were originally, and put a little weld in there so the cage is strong.
Rob
rubadub Oct 16th, 07, 9:37 PM When I update my floor pan thread, a day or two, I took some close up pictures of a support with the cage nut in it, they should be pretty clear, then we'll have a cage nut to show what they actually look like.
Rob
Chevelle4pres Oct 21st, 07, 10:14 PM Thanks for your help guys. Im trying to follow in my dads footsteps with restoring cars so this is my first project.
forever young Oct 24th, 07, 9:51 AM I just trecieved my body bushing kit yesterday and I have bushing #5, which is just rubber, no bolts and sits under the front section of the 1 piece trunk floor pan. I am putting them in to use for alignment of the pans.
Malibu70 Oct 26th, 07, 1:22 AM You could apply some copper anti-seize to the bolt threads before reassembly, to be sure those bolts are not rusted tight the next time you need to remove the bushings. After 30+ years they will be rusted again.
When I removed my old bushings, the bolt broke at Mount 2. I had to remove the fender and wheelwell to get access to the caged nut to fix it. Also I forgot to release the auto-trans shifter when I lifted the body, and almost broke the transmission case.
Silk_Hope Nov 1st, 07, 11:07 PM I went to remove mine tonight but both #6 mounts spin in the cage, the rest of the bolts are out. I can't see how to access them, any suggestions?
rubadub Nov 1st, 07, 11:30 PM Jon, according to your profile your working on a 69. That cage nut is in the trunk support, I just went out and measured it inside the hole with my finger.
I would go after it from underneath the car, start by cutting a hole with an air cut off wheel or dremel cut off wheel. Go about 1 1/2 '' from the center of the hole back towards the back of the car, and 1 1/2 '' from the center of the hole towards the front of the car.
Make your cut about 2 1/2 '' wide, so you have a hole 3'' long by 2 1/2 '' wide, only cut about a 1/16'' of an inch deep, then bend the tabs back and pull out the nut and bolt.
Also you could leave one end uncut and peel it back like a can opener, the just pound it back when your all done and weld it up.
Anyway, thats how I would do it if I had a welder.
Rob
Silk_Hope Nov 1st, 07, 11:45 PM Thanks Rob, Sorry I am working on my 72 while my 69 is at the body shop. I don't have a welder (yet).
When you cut the holes are you going straight through into the trunk or are you staying underneath? There is not a lot of room to work around these bolts.
rubadub Nov 2nd, 07, 12:02 AM Just into the suppport thats welded to the trunk, so you aren't going up through the trunk.
Rob
Silk_Hope Nov 2nd, 07, 12:09 AM Thanks, I will give it a go. I was hoping to get a 1 inch wrench in there some how to hold the square nut so I can get it out.
rubadub Nov 2nd, 07, 12:36 AM Just make the cuts, because your going to tear up the sheet metal with a wrench, and its easier to get the edges back straight with a nice neat cut, trust me.:)
Rob
rubadub Nov 2nd, 07, 12:39 AM I'm doing a floorpan update right now, the bride is resizing the pictures, about an hour I will have it on the body shop section, I took two clear pictures of a cage nut, just so people could see how to handle them.
Rob
LateNight72 Nov 2nd, 07, 12:48 AM I'd go through the trunk pan, but that's just me...
rubadub Nov 2nd, 07, 1:52 AM The support underneath is thicker metal, easier to weld back in with out distorting it, its hard to keep from warping the top thinner metal, and you can't get a dolly under it.:p
Rob
rubadub Nov 2nd, 07, 2:27 AM Todd, when you have a trunk pan with a seam this tight, now you tell me, would you want to cut into a pristine trunk floor like this, it would be worse then trying to doctor up the Mona Lisa.:)
http://www.1969supersport.com/rest16.jpg
Rob
LateNight72 Nov 2nd, 07, 3:01 AM ehh... I guess...
rubadub Nov 2nd, 07, 3:14 AM Thanks bare metal your looking at. I'm going to get you an appointment with wallmart optical, and get you coke bottled up.:)
rubadub Nov 2nd, 07, 3:15 AM Wait till you see it after I layer the bondo on it.:)
LateNight72 Nov 2nd, 07, 3:23 AM Wanna see my metal? :D
(Taken 2/27/05, Her 1st day home :hurray: )
http://xs221.xs.to/xs221/07445/wasted14.jpg
rubadub Nov 2nd, 07, 3:38 AM Cool.
LateNight72 Nov 2nd, 07, 3:41 AM Cool.
Sorry, it's not at the 1000 point show car status, yet. I'm betting most people would've left it were it sat if they saw that rust... :beers:
rubadub Nov 2nd, 07, 3:49 AM A lot of them would have, but theres a bunch of guys on here that would fix it. Those are my favorite rim.
rubadub Nov 2nd, 07, 1:50 PM Heres some cage nut pictures, took them last night.
http://www.1969supersport.com/floorpan08.jpg
I took a picture of the cage nut because people keep asking about them on different
forums, so I figured I'd put this on the site so I can refer them to what one looks like.
There is a square nut underneath that cage, but they usually have a broken bolt sticking
in them. Anyway when you go to fix them, the side of the cage that holds the square
nut will be torn. Because one side is out, the nut will spin. Usually to get at these
it's best to go through from the inside of the car through the floor. There is normally
a hump in the floor where the cage nut is located. If you cut an "L" shaped hole in the
floor about 1/8" deep you can peel it back like a can opener, take your cut off wheel
or Dremel cut off wheel and cut the cage open a little more and get the nut out.
Once you get the frozen bolt out of the nut it's best to run a tap through it, then
put it back in the cage, bend the sides up or weld a little piece of metal in there,
whatever, but make sure that the nut will move around in there without spinning
around and around.
http://www.1969supersport.com/floorpan09.jpg
Another view of the cage with the nut inside of it.
Rob
LateNight72 Nov 2nd, 07, 2:38 PM Here's what usually happens when you get the dreaded spun cage nut;
http://xs321.xs.to/xs321/07445/explodedcage.jpg
rubadub Nov 2nd, 07, 4:04 PM That is a prime example of what most of them look like.:thumbsup:
Silk_Hope Nov 2nd, 07, 8:18 PM Went by my body shop to check on my 69 today. I asked him about my 72 cage bolt problem. He told me to cut through the trunk with a hole saw to access it but save the cut out. I may have to sawzaw the bolt and remove it. He said to replace the bolt and bushing and he will tack weld the bolt and weld the metal back in the hole, grind it and paint it.
Does anyone sell replacement cage nuts?
Hopefully when i do its frame off in 10 years all of the bolts will come out again easily.
LateNight72 Nov 2nd, 07, 9:00 PM All the resto houses should have them.
LateNight72 Nov 2nd, 07, 9:03 PM http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=chevellecamino&Product_Code=BCN-716&Category_Code=
70ss454pete Nov 2nd, 07, 10:38 PM If you can't get to them under the trunk floor you'll have to cut a hole in the trunk floor to access the nuts. You can usually see the trunk floor dimpled up where the nuts are.
Silk_Hope Nov 2nd, 07, 11:44 PM Thanks for all your help. I cut a 3" hole in the floor at the dimples. Took just a couple of minutes. I put vice grips on the nuts and was able to get them out. The body is now resting on 2x4 blocks on the frame. Clean up time!!
| |