Finally :D Below is a list of components that I plan on using to power a lightened 85 IROC (approx 3000#) Intended purpose is 80% strip, 20% street. Using a 200R4 and a backhalved ford l/s 9" and 4.88 gears on 31X10.5 slicks. Goal is 10.5 to 11.0 n/a. When the suspension is dialed in, plan to use a 200-300 nitrus shot. Tell me what you think. Dyno verification would be great also!!! graemlins/beers.gif


400 4 bolt w/ .030 overbore and block-fill to freeze plugs, zero deck
AFR 227 RR w/2.1 and 1.6 valves
custom grind solid roller cam with following specs:
dur 265/306, lobe center 117.3,650/650 lift,ivo/c-20/65, evo/c-95/31, values are seat to seat
3.75 4340 steel crank
5.7 4340 steel H rods
coated probe forged pistons 11:1
clevite bearings
felpro gaskets( .039 head gasket)
super vic intake
holly 950 cfm 4150 hp
1 3/4 exhaust w/ 3" collectors and tailpipe bypass

DD2k predicts 609hp @ 6500 and 567tq @ 5000. Are those close cause I take them with a grain of salt. :eek:

Thanks to everyone for your patience and answering my questions.

Originally posted by newonad:
custom grind solid roller cam with following specs:
dur 265/306, lobe center 117.3,650/650 lift,ivo/c-20/65, evo/c-95/31, values are seat to seat
Could check the cam specs again. I realize you want to spray but the int/exh dur spread seems pretty wide (265/306).

I'm going to GUESS that he means 265 @.050 and 306 adv. dur. :confused:

This combo is above and beyond anything I've ever messed with, but the only questions I have would be:

Is 11:1 CR the actual measured DCR and would it be enough for the combo?

Is 1 3/4" primary tubes big enough? Looks like a high winder and I wonder if 1 7/8" would be an option?

Sounds like a runner and one heckuva bear on the street, even with the 200-4R. But with your intended usage...who cares, right? ;) Grabbing the calculator, 4.88's with a 2.74 1st gear would be like a 5.39(ish) gearset with a TH-400. :eek:

I hope that your right on about the car being 3000lbs. (with or without driver, btw?). If it's much heavier than that, you'll wish for more low-end torque.

As is, I think if you make sure all your driveline components are bulletproof (even with your emphasis on high-end HP), you should get that 11.00 with the appropriate tuning. Keep us posted and good luck! smile.gif

bad info on cam. should be;

280/300 ADV ON 112.5 LOBE Centers ivo 30,ivc70, evo 85, evc 35

3000# is w/o driver

My partner ownes a trans shop and this was his suggestion. 4.88 turns into a 3.27 with a .67 overdrive. Gotta love it graemlins/hurray.gif


more torque? according to desktop dreamer it should be over 475 @2500,over 500 @3500 and peak with over 550lbs @ 5000

peak hp is produced at 6500 so I dont consider this a rpm screamer :D

That is a REDICULOUS split pattern. 280/300? That cant be right. Ive never seen 20 degree split on a cam. Heck mines a 10 degree split @.050 and i thought that was alot. what brand of cam is this? do you have a part #? Those AFR's should be flowing at least close to the 75% in/ex ratio thats needed for a simetrical cam and surely a 20degree split ISNT needed and is probably hurting performance significantly.

With 200-300HP spray, the 20º split might be needed. That's a whole lot of exhaust to get out. I agree it is too much for NA.

Did you calculate the CR? 11:1 is a bunch for a 280º cam. The DCR is 8.49:1. This is right at the very max for pump gas. The alum heads will help but you'll need to keep the temps under control to avoid detonation with pump gas (170º max). Race gas will free you up from the temp control quite a bit. The nitrous will help cool things substantially when it is on. It should be a very strong runner.

REDICULOUS split pattern. Why? Is it because you havn't seen one or becauce you havn't run one? Pat is correct. The emphasis is on performance w/nitrous. This is not intended to be a street motor, but, it will be on the street on occasion.

Thanks for the info Pat. We are putting a 4 core al. radiator to compensate for the heat and block-fill. Race gas will be used on the track.

I'm glad I'm not the one having to drive it on the street, that cam is big for a big block on the street. I'll bet it ends up as a strip only car graemlins/waving.gif

The only real problem I see is driving in OD. I highly suggest using a lockup converter with a switch so it can be turned off. That way you can avoid lugging the engine on hills while in OD. The LU converter will help keep trans temps in line on the level stretches. Expect to downshift pretty regularly on hills. If the engine is lugged, detonation is highly probable. Keep the R's up smile.gif .

Rediculous because i didnt pay close enough attention to you running a healthy shot of Nitrous....but ive still never seen such a large split on a cam before, who is making that out of curiosity???? Also look at Howe Radiators. I have one of there 185 dollar stock car aluminum jobs from performance bodies here in cedar falls and my car dosent see over 165 degrees even on the hottest day. Plus it was gravy putting it in the Nova...it basically fell in. And lastly id have to think that 11.0 is going to be an off the trailer time. If your motor's making 600hp, plus a 300 shot on top of that you should go WAY faster than 10.5 in a 3000 lb car. Could probably go 10.5 without the spray.