im still having a problem with getting my parts clean before painting them. today i filled all the seams on the frame (damn did that take a long time), and then i shot a coat of epoxy tonite to seal it all in. but, i am again having a problem with areas repeling the first coat. it looks like a bunch of circles about 3/8" in diameter real close to each other (im not sure what this is called). the centers of the circle looked hazy, with the outside of the circles perfectly painted. when i shot my second coat, they almost disappeared. there again were two or three areas about 4 sq inches.

i had this problem with the first coat on the bare metal, but i hit those areas with 80 when i was doing the filler and there was not problem painting over them again. they covered so well you now cant tell they were there.

so whats my problem? i know im not wearing gloves when i touch the parts, but i dont know why the w&g remover isnt taking care of it. im wetting a rag real good, saturating the part, and then wiping with a dry clean rag before it dries.

what else can i do? does anyone use soap and water on painted parts? or just bare metal? ive got a few more raw parts to paint, so i think im going to give the dawn a try on those. but that still doesnt help me with the painted parts.....

thanks, Tim

What kind of wax and grease remover are you using, also did you spray any wd-40 near where you are painting?

Maybe we can figure this out, I'll stay right here, if not we'll have to bring the big dogs in.:)

Rob

Well

Fish eye... you have some sort of oil.. or something floating in the air.. and it is bleeding thru the paint.
NO waxes.. spraying of any wd-40 etc.. in the shop area

If you scroll down quite a ways fisheys will pop up on this site.

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/sh..._guide/tsg.pdf

I couldn't get this to come up, if you go to this and scroll down about a dozen posts it will come up.

craters in paint (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168677&highlight=fisheyes) (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/olp/images/misc/multipage.gif 1 (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168677&highlight=fisheyes) 2 (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168677&page=2&highlight=fisheyes))
hpsherlin

Also, is there any chance your getting a drip or two of water out of your paint gun.

Rob

I think we lost him B-MAN, although his green light is on, and he's on the body forum, hmmmmm!!!

thanks for the replies. i dont have anything but my own sweat that could be contaminating the paint. it went right from the booth to the filler and back to the booth.

im using spi's waterborne, but i may go out and get some ppg stuff if it will work any better. barry at spi has been great, but i havent talked to him since it happened the first time.

maybe im just rushing it. how long would it take for you guys to wipe down a frame? how many times would you go over it? im using a brand new white shirt to wipe it on and another to wipe it off.

im not worried about what has happened, but tomorrow im going to shoot it with g2 and then with sealer and my base/clear. my fear is that if i dont get the g2 clean enough, the fisheyes will come back for my sealer, which will screw up my base and clear.


still wondering, does anyone do a soap and water wash before the w&g remover and spraying the base?????

thanks, Tim

I don't use soap and water.

Maybe theres some chemicals in the brand new shirt, if its never been washed.

You also mentioned you were saturating the part with wax and grease remover, maybe to much of that.

Why don't you go over it with some new red scotch brite lightly, then blow it off and tack it, and don't use the wax and grease remover anymore.

When I painted my frame that was what i did, and zero fisheyes, theres a lot of difference in wax and grease removers.

So, scuff it with the red scotchbrite by hand, take another new piece of scothbrite, and as your blowing it off use the scotch brite with it, just lightly so your getting the dust just laying on there loosened up.

I would let the dust clear and blow it off a couple of more times, then tack it off.

When your using a waterborne paint, what do you clean the gun with, I've never used it.

the paints still the same, the w&g is just water based. ive thought about my lines, but their brand new. ive thought about the filters, but ive got two sharpes and a motorgaurd that are brand new (i have never gotten water out of any filters????). i also have 50 ft of copper before my filters and there are two drops that i get very little out of. compressor is a new 7.5hp IR, so i dont have issues with old rings. i guess im gonna put a ball filter at the gun. i wont hurt anything but the mobility.

i looked at pics of the fisheyes, and im not sure im having the same problem. those appear to be individual issues, whereas mine is a whole area. when i spray, the paint lays down perfect, but about 3 sec later, it just pushes away and forms the circles.

would a light sanding like that really work? if i sanded the whole thing after i touched it, wouldnt i be moving the contaminents deeper?

im gonna put it in g2 today, do the sanding, and then do my painting on saturday. hopefully i wont have any problems with letting it sit for a couple days.

thanks, Tim

clean it really well with lacquer thinner before sanding. If you have stuff on the frame and you sand, you just grind it in rather than removing it.

Here's what I do, and I haven't had any problems with lifting, crinkling, fish eye, etc:

strip part.

clean with lacquer thinner

sand with 80 grit

clean with lacquer thinner again

clean with phosphoric acid (Right Stuff, Metal Ready, etc)

wax and grease remover. Be sure to use a clean rag. put a good film on, and use a clean rag to wipe off, rather than scrubbing with a rag soaked in WGR. The idea is the WGR lifts the stuff off and floats it and you scoop it off with a clean rag. Keep at it until the rags come off clean. MAke sure the parts are clean of the WGR before spraying. MArtinSr has a good writeup on in WGR in his basics of basics series.

tack rag (actually, I use a wet rag, rung out really well)

thanks again for the replies.... ive been wiping the w&g remover on real wet, then wiping it off with another rag. the dry rag has been staying clean and the wet rag only shows a little dirt.

i talked to barry and he said it is contamination if it shows up right away. if it would take a while (30 secs) he said that it would be the w&g still flashing.

i have all the suspension pieces that im going to paint today. i just bought some dawn, so ill give them a quick bath, rinse, w&g, tack and shoot. ill let you know how it goes.

thanks again, tim

btw.... im going to shoot the w&g remover on today. i think it will put more on the part and less on the rag. a lot gets wasted when i have to keep wetting the rag.

btw.... im going to shoot the w&g remover on today. i think it will put more on the part and less on the rag. a lot gets wasted when i have to keep wetting the rag.

remember to use a clean rag. keep shifting it and folding it to expose the clean parts. otherwise you just put the crap back on.

I would give it a good washing with lacquer thinner first though.