Hope you aren't getting tired of hearing that caption. I tried to get a hold of you awhile back but you were busy in Bowling Greene. I need some help picking a cam for my motor if you don't mind. I already have a solid roller that I purchased before I heard about you, but I would maybe change to a bigger roller or a solid flat tappet if you would recomend for me to do so. I don't have the roller lifters or rockers that can handle the spring pressures of the springs that came on my heads so if it is cheaper to replace the springs and be able to use my comp magnum rockers I would lean the flat tappet way. This is a mostly race car that does see street time once and a while (cruise ins, car shows) so I kind of lean towards race.
246/252 @.050 585/600 106/102 solid roller is the cam I have.

3300# with me in it
SB 400 .030 over 4 bolt block
11.0:1 comp srp pistons
h-beam 6" rods
forged crank
AFR 210 heads
stall (whatever needed for cam and streetable)
350 TH tranny
12 bolt 4:10 gear (may change if needed)
no power brakes or steering
please let me know if you need any more info
Thank you

1320,

My pleasure....
When I get enough money(Ha-Ha!) I will be building a very similar engine, a 383 with the same heads and about 10.3:1.
I have 2 cams, a solid and a roller, that I recommend. I will be using the roller, which is the very last cam ground at UltraDyne.
For a solid, use the Lunati 401C3LUN, which is 292/301 at .020, 259/267 at .050, 170/176 at .200, .551"/.551" valve lift, and 110 LSA. It needs about 130-140 lbs on the seat, about 330 lbs open.
For a roller, use the Lunati 501C2LUN, which is 288/296 at .020, 255/263 at .050, 178/183 at .200, .626"/.626" valve lift, and 109 LSA. It needs about 210 lbs on the seat, and 525 lbs open, for 8000 rpm.
Both of these cams are very streetable, although you may need screws in your rims for the roller. A 3000 SS converter will work just fine, and a 750 Holley for the carb. You need 1/2" fuel line, and a very good fuel pump, One Holley 110 is not enough.
The roller should be capable of high 10s, the solid of low 11s.

UDHarold

Harold, my combo (383) is simular to the above combo with heads that flow very well. im running a comp 294hr ground on 110. im happy with a HR cam and was thinking a custom ground cam may be worth some et. im all ready at 10.98. what would you recommend if anything and possable increases? thanks Dave

Thanks a bunch for your reply. I do have 1/2" fuel line but I guess I will need a new pump seeing how mine is a holly blue. I will look into the cost of both and make a call. High tens is what I am looking for and still streetable. That has kind of been my goal for a while.I have been a little concerned about running a solid roller on the street because of all the horror storys of them failing at low rpm's and I can't afford to put another motor together of this caliber (plus the wife would kill me)

1320,

Actually, you need a 2nd Holley Blue pump, 2 Y-Blocks, and 1/2" line, if you don't have it already.
Mount the 2 Holleys side-by-side, pulling together out of the tank. Using 1/2" line, hook them into a Y-Block, then 1/2" line all the way to the front.
Close to your carburator, put the 2nd Y-block, and mount both regulators on the exits.
Let 1 regulator feed the front bowl, and the other regulator feed the back bowl.
If you want a fuel-pressure reading, hook the 2 unused outlets together and T off of that line to your fuel pressure guage. What you see is the average pressure.
The 292/301 has gone for many, many, thousands of miles on the street. You should get years of use out of it.

SheetMetal,

Wait until December.....

UDHarold

Thanks Harold I do have a second pump laying around so the only cost would be the y blocks. Boy I think that is the first time I have ever had that kind of luck and not had to spend a bunch more money. I now feel a little bit better about the roller on the street so I will go with that. They deffinatly make a ton of power.

Harold I might also step up to a roller. What's the vacuum on these cams in a 406?