Rod/redline question in 4.00" stroke big block. [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Rod/redline question in 4.00" stroke big block.


Rad Racer
Oct 5th, 04, 1:27 AM
I got a 454 block this weekend and it came with a 7416 crank which has me thinking. I was buying a bare block to make a 427 engine, but with the nice crank, I am thinking of using the thing and going 468(the blocks already .030" over). Now, the reason I was going 427 was so I could spin the motor on stock rods. Here's what I'm wondering: If I go to a 4.00" stroke, can a stock truck rod take 6500rpm? How about a non-capscrew style SCAT I beam(the cheap ones around $225) take 6500rpm?

Thanks for the help guys and sorry about being wordy. smile.gif

EDIT: I am not thinking about valve train limits or breathing right now, this is just what the rods will stand up to.

71454Chevelle
Oct 5th, 04, 5:30 AM
I'm running an OEM forged crank with a set of "re-worked" 3/8" truck rods with SPS bolts and TRW forged pistons and it sees 6500 regularly. No problems.

Alot of people think 454 wont rev, but with the right parts and balancing they can take 7000 rpms easily.

Rad Racer
Oct 7th, 04, 9:51 PM
Awesome, I was hoping some truck rods could do the job.

Harold Sutton
Oct 8th, 04, 12:19 AM
The high performance rod with either the 3/8" or 7/16 rod bolt is a whole lot better rod, it's made out of better material than the standard rod and just plain stronger. I had a 454 that had G.M. rods and routinely ran it 7000 RPM. It ran low 11s @ 125+ MPH, 4 spd., 4.10 gears @ 3460 pounds.

Rad Racer
Oct 8th, 04, 1:09 AM
What is the difference between the high performance rod and the truck rod? Are the high performance rods the ones with the dots? Thanks for the info guys.

three85stroker
Oct 8th, 04, 11:43 AM
Just use as light a piston as possible. The tensile and compressive loads on the rod are affected exponentially by the weight of the piston and pin assembly. The less weight your rods have to deal with, the easier their job is, and you will be able to rev higher w/o wondering if your rod is going to kick the bucket (or the side of the crankcase) at 6,500 rpm's.

I'm not sure of the difference between truck rods and 'high-perf' rods, but I do know that if you're looking for forged rods, check for a parting line down the side of the rod. If it has a distinct parting line, it's cast. If it has a wide line down the side, it's forged.

pdq67
Oct 8th, 04, 5:52 PM
The truck rod's indent on the beam is such that your thumb just fit's into it just above the journal end.

This design makes it quite a bit thicker/stronger on each side of this area vs the standard car rod...

Good rods, imho...

pdq67