Well, i finally hooked up that fluch and fill kit from prestn. i have had that super flush whatever sitting in my cooling system for about 2 weeks now. i probably want to get it out soon.

So I hooked everything up as directed, however ummm as some of you may no, i bypassed my heater. i have a hose running from my water pump to my intake manifold, so i just put the 'T' and the garden hose in between the water pump and the intake manifold. Didn't think there would be any problems there. Or I hoped at least.

here comes where I was a little sketchy, It's says to put the drain tube in the top of the radiator and to loosen the radiator drain. Well, I assume that this is the draincock/petcock. Well, for some reason mine is stripped out and no longer opens. So I decided to run the engine with the hose off and not have it drain out of the bottom of the radiator, but the top.

There was some smoke, it didn't last long. i had assumed that it was just the water leaking from the hose onto the exhaust pipes, so i moved the leaking part to outside the car.

I did notice some oil slick rainbows in the water that had come out of the radiator. I am hoping that this is from oil on the ground though that mixed with the water.

Give it to me guys, am I ok, or there a chance I might have messed up and blown a seal or something. I checked the oil right away and it was thick and black like it always is, but it was kind of wattery at the top of the dipstick where it goes in the tube. i am going to wait for the engine to cool and settle and then check the oil again.

It's says to put the drain tube in the top of the radiator and to loosen the radiator drain. Well, I assume that this is the draincock/petcock. Well, for some reason mine is stripped out and no longer opens. So I decided to run the engine with the hose off and not have it drain out of the bottom of the radiator, but the top.
Do you plan to turn the car upside-down to drain the water?
Draincocks are available at EVERY Menards/Home Despot/Lowes/Ace Hardware, etc, etc. Buy three. One to replace the one in your radiator, two to replace the block drain plugs in the block.

Once you remove the block drain plugs, you will probably have to shove a small pick or disposable screwdriver in the hole to break through the deposited rust, crap, garf, and garfelderfarb that's been congealing in the bottom of your water jackets.

Drain both sides of the block, AND the radiator before adding the anti-freeze of your choice in whatever concentration you feel is needed.

If you have ANY concerns about blown gaskets/seals/whatever, refill with garden hose water and drive it a couple of days--see if the level drops. If it doesn't, open up the draincocks, drain all the water, and then re-fill with antifreeze mix. (of course, you aren't going to refill with plain water if you have ANY indication that the weather is going to get to freezing anytime soon. The stories I could tell...)

hrm, the drain 'nut' on the radiator is stuck, I am afraid that I will destroy the radiator if I try to get it out.

Umm, where are the 2 drains on a 350?

There is one drain on each side of the block, bout halfway between where the head begins and the oilpan

1) umm, drains or plugged holes?

2) I remove the plugs and replace with drain/cocks?

3) After I finish flushing, do I leave them there or replace with the plugs?

4) What should I use to seal? Will Permatex Seal A Gasket or whatever it is called (the black sticky stuff) be appropriate?

Thanks

Oh yeah...

5) What size do I buy, or is it a one size fits all?

1) umm, drains or plugged holes?
Solid plugs are installed by GM.

2) I remove the plugs and replace with drain/cocks?
That'd be my suggestion.

3) After I finish flushing, do I leave them there or replace with the plugs?
You could remove the plugs to drain the block, and then re-install the plugs. As for me, I screw in draincocks and make the job easier next time.

4) What should I use to seal? Will Permatex Seal A Gasket or whatever it is called (the black sticky stuff) be appropriate?
I have a strong preference for Loctite PST (Pipe Sealer with Teflon.) Loctite PST has the same active ingredient as Loctite thread locker--so the pipe thread sealer doesn't just "dry", it HARDENS. Wonderful stuff. Alternatives are any hardware-store Teflon pipe sealer; non-Teflon pipe thread sealers (NOT PVC PIPE SEALERS); and most any "gasket dressing" you can name. It's pipe thread--with any luck you could screw a clean and dry brass fitting into the cast-iron block and have no leak.

5) What size do I buy, or is it a one size fits all?
I'm thinking it's 1/4" NPT. Take the original plugs with you when you buy the draincocks. I'm also thinking that the radiator draincock is the same size--at least if we're dealing with an older copper/brass radiator.

garf, and garfelderfarb

Please elaborate!

Big D

garf, and garfelderfarb

Please elaborate!

Big D

Icky, icky, ugly stuff that you WOULD NOT want spread on your morning toast, or packed into a bleeding wound, for example.

Went to 3 autozones and one kragen. no Dice

Went to 3 autozones and one kragen. no Dice


Draincocks are available at EVERY Menards/Home Despot/Lowes/Ace Hardware, etc, etc. Buy three. One to replace the one in your radiator, two to replace the block drain plugs in the block.
So don't go to Autozone or Kragen.

Ok, tried Osh, guess I should listen up and go to Home Depot tommorow and knock this out once and for al and check it off my list of things to do.

Ok, tried Osh,
I'd have expected OSH to have 'em. What department are you looking in?

HAHAHA Of course. I can't get the old one out. It looks to be about 9/16 but it just slides. It is just a smooth ROUND brass fitting now that I can't get a grip on. The crescent failed as well. Once I find my Channel Locks, I'll give them a whirl but I can all but gurantee the outcome.

Advice?

And as for Osh, I went to hardware, nuts/bolts, plumbing etc. If I can ever get the old one out, I'll just take it to home depot and tackle someone and hold them for ransom till they find me a replacement.

But first, to get the bitch out!

grab the vice grips- actual Vice Grip brand locking pliers, not the cheap Chinese junk that you can buy at Wal Mart- and clamp it on the nut and start rocking it back and forth. it will come out, but it may not be round any more..

as long as I can put a replacement back in, that sounds like a plan

I was a little worried because with the channel locks it looked like it was bending the radiator, but 10 minutes with the vice grips and it finally came out.

now why didn't I think of that. I usually stay away from the Vice Grips because they are pretty much rusted shut. Takes a real effort to adjust them. grease and WD40 only make it worse, so they are an after thought always.

Anyways, i am going to go to Home Depot if I can borrow the girls car and see if I can grab one of these.

Which department should i be looking in since the attendants there are worthless

Now to see if I can find those damn drain plugs on the engine itself. Something tells me this is gonna be a PITA.

I happen to be one of those worthless attendants. Have a nice day.

So you just popped on here to say that? Sorry, Guilt by association.

I have NEVER once been to a home crepot where someone offered to help. Better yet, I have yet to be at one where the attendants didn't take off their smocks and hide from the customers. I have had better customer service speaking with Manilla about my Sprint bill.

Do you remember those commercials a while back where people were lost in Home Depots and couldn't find anyone to help... There pretty spot on.

Osh, Lowes and Anawalt... They actually try to help and look like they like their jobs. At the Home Depot, you'll be lucky if you can ever find anyone in the department your shopping in. And if you do, you get the all to familiar, "Not my department" mantra.

Sorry if I offended you, but I stand by my assertion. Home depot is a last resort if Osh or Anawalt doesn't carry the item or it's an after hours emergency.

Now back to Chevy talk.

I was looking on the engine. I beleive that I have found one, however it is near imposible to get to with the headers and crossmember. The other one is imposible without removing the headers.

Could I just ignore those or maybe do one and not the other?

Sorry if you have a crappy store in your area, but my store sure isn't like that. Maybe you should call corperate.

Hrm I see you edited your post. Thanks for taking off your insult.

Back to business people...

As far as draining the engine/radiator...


The radiator is drained. However, I was looking on the engine. I believe that I have found one of the engine drain plugs on the passenger side.

Bad news it is near impossible to get to with the headers and cross member. The other one is impossible without removing the headers.

Could I just ignore those and flush the radiator and rest of system, or perhaps take off one plug but leave the other one on?

Or should I really take both headers off just to drain the whole system and flush it thoroughly.

Thank you for your time.

I doubt if most service shops would remove the plugs on the side of the block if you asked them to flush and refill the cooling system. And I wouldn't bother unless I thought that the block's cooling jackets were filled with crud. I remove these plugs on my boat's inboard engine every fall to drain all the water to prevent the block from cracking. But if you are thoroughly flushing the system, I can't see the point of removing them. Pressure from your water hose should move the water/coolant through those areas.

Data...... something that hasn't been said ... if those drain plugs in the block haven't been removed in quit some time .... it can an some time does take an act of divine intervention to remove them !!! repair the drain on the radiator as its the lowest point & you'll get most of the junk out ...... if it doesn't remove the lower rad hose & flush again to remove big chunks