I have one of these kits from Bowling Green Customs,read about it from Ed (Racer1320).Basically what it does is keeps the pad pushed away from the rotor to help et the car.I lost the drawing and directions,and after putting new rotors on can't remember where to install the washers.I put it together how I thought it goes and I have alot of drag when I spin the tire.You're supposed to add or subtract washers for less drag so maybe I have it right but need more washers ?Does anyone have a drawing they can post for me ?
Thanks, MCMIKE

The long spring rides on the caliper mounting bolts. You insert the bolt through the back of the caliper just a tad (through the rear brake pad too), slide or squeeze the spring into place, then slide the pin through further just stopping before it goes through the outer pad. Then add as many washers/shims as needed. Finish sliding the caliper bolt in and tighten.

You'll need to spin the rotor and check for drag and adjust the amount of shims/washers accordingly.

This is how my Malibu calipers were done, and I can only assume the older Chevelle calipers were mounted similarly.

hth
Todd

Hey Todd,good to here from you.I think my problem might be that I changed pads and didn't use theirs.Seems to me that their pad might have a hole where the bolt slides through on the top and the pads I have just have a half moon type hole so the spring and washer don't push back on the pad.

I wonder how much e.t. I am scrubbing off with 4 wheel disc brakes??? Where/How do we find out about these kits??? Who sells them??? I'm all ears graemlins/waving.gif

Mine is a couple years old,so I hope the info is still current.Bowling Green Customs @ 770-425-9800.Part #FRK1118 Friction Reduction Kit,includes springs, washers,and pads.Sold then for $29.00.

Is this modification streetable or is it intended solely for the track?

The only issue you will have on the street is that the pads will wear a little quicker than the standard type.The pads that come in the kit are a softer compound to coincide with the spring in keeping drag off the rotor.

ive thought about this mod. for my car buti have the wilwood set up. does anyone make a kit for this? they dont use bolts, just 1 long cotter key to hold the pads in. Dave

Thanks McMike...do they have a website that you know of? thanks again.

I had this kit on the front brakes of my 71 Chevelle. It did reduce the friction, but I found that I had to pump the brakes a second time to get the car to stop well. I'm thinking that the springs forced fluid back into the master cyl and the extra pump was necessary to get the pads in contact with the rotor. I also had a problem with fluid venting from the caps of the Wilwood MC
when I had the kit on the car. Since I took it off, there is no more fluid venting.

How much ET reduction are we talking about?

The reduction in et is going to be relative to the amount of drag on the rotor,but .05-.10 is common.Jack up the front of the car and pull a wheel off.Then using just one hand grab the wheel studs and try to spin the rotor,it usually will turn but not spin at all.Now pull the caliper off and do the same.Unless your bearings are shot or not greased it will spin like a top.The kit will make it similar to this,and without is much like running the 1/4 mile with your foot slightly on the brake.That's why alot of racers years ago opted to stay with the 4 wheel drums instead of upgrading to the superior stopping disc.

Where can I get this nowadays?

Racers aren't the only ones thinking about reducing the residual friction.

The clearances between the brake pad and rotor are therefore very critical to establishing correct brake pedal height and response. To reduce pad-to-rotor clearance, disc rotors are machined to less than a few thousandths of an inch runout and less than a few ten-thousandths of an inch variation in rotor thickness. To improve fuel economy, engineers designed caliper piston seals that retract the caliper piston a few thousandths of an inch from the brake rotor. Engineers also began using sealed wheel bearings with zero endplay to control and reduce pad-to-rotor clearance. All in all, modern disc brakes contribute very much to the quest for high-performance, fuel-efficient vehicles.

http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/Article/663/t2s_service_advisor__read_any_good_calipers_lately .aspx

Boy this is an oldie but goodie. I havent had 4 wheel disc brakes in a long time :D

loosen your front wheel bearings one notch. You'll get about the same effect.

In any case see SS540s comments about pedal take-up and fluid. Brake fluid is great paint remover. Leave some room in the M/C for fluid coming back from the caliper.

You ought to feel the drag my Vette has with the stock 4 piston calipers! But they stop well!

JIM