MSD 8360 pro billet followed the instructions, dropped it back in thought I had it in the same spot it was(?) before working on it. Turns over no problem , the crane HI6 box is blinking as always, lots of gas because it backfired though the carb (yikes). Have I got it in a tooth too little or too far? Can I check the timing while its turning over is this accurate enough? Any suggestions?

Just bring number 1 up and align the pointer on the balancer to 0 and pull the cap and see where the rotor is pointing. Sounds like a tooth or more off based on the backfiring. Just a thought

What Joe said plus if you have an older holley carb that backfire may have taken out the powervalve. Place a section of plastic bag over spark plug hole #1 and bump the starter to bring the piston to TDC. (the bag will pop at TDC) Next line up your mark , You did mark the distributor in relation to the reference mark right??? Pull cap and your rotor should be pointing to the #1 plug. IF not you may be able to turn the distirbutor enough to compensate for the error. Hope that helps.

A locked distributor is installed the same as any other.
Only difference is there are no longer any mechanical spark advance mechanisms which are not functioning while cranking anyhow.

Just to expand further...
Bump the motor around until #1 cylinder is 32-38 degrees before top dead center...on the Compression stroke.
Stab the distributor in fully with the rotor pointing directly at #1 wire position on the cap.
Fire her up...:thumbsup:
After it's running, just rotate the distributor to obtain your desired total timing.
I'm assuming you are NOT using a crank trigger here.

ok, bag trick worked perfect, but going to go billscamino route as I'm a little confused as to my numerous marks. I get carried away some nights a couple "pops" buzzsaw on the sirius radio.. One more question, when everyone refers to the rotor "pointing" which orientation is this? Is the tang where its connected considered pointing or is the open side supposed to do the pointing? Hope this is a valid question

The metal contact on the outer edge of the rotor needs to point to the #1 wire terminal on the cap. The cylinder's spark plug ignites when that metal rotor contact sweeps across the distributor cap post.

Why are you locking out the timing????

Wont stay running in gear without 30* and up intial.

Something sounds odd. What are the engine particulars?

Levon search my log in you'll see the story in the performance section, you helped me there too. I'm getting closer I think, I pulled the dist. and bumped the motor till 36* on the balancer is around 10-12 number on the timing tab near the timing chain cover. Now I'm going to pull the valve cover and make sure both rocker's on number 1 are close to the middle position (?) How does that sound? will this tell me I'm on the compression stroke? Then if this right I'll follow billscamino's advice below. Oh by the way live in St.Thomas Ontario, 10 minutes from Sparta Dragstrip (hope to get the 55 there this season)

That would give you 24º if the timing tab and balancer are correct. You need 36 timing on the balancer at 0 on the tab to have 36.

Which Hi-6 are you using. If it is the one with timing retard it mey be retarding on you at too low an RPM?
I don't know enough about these to add more but your engine should idle wit 24 initial and 36 total.

Ok, if I put the dist. in pointing at number one could I move the base after its running to get 36*? Is my description of the rocker arms correct?

The best solution is to use a timing light ;) as you can still be off setting the timing even though it may start.

To get it set initially you are doing the right things. Both valves closed and timing mark should be at or aproaching 0º. Once it starts get the RPM up to 3500 and set the timing at 36º.

Then go after the other adjustments

ok turned engine over to 0 on the balancer to close to 0 on the timing tab, dropped in the dist. got a quarter inch till its fully seated (rotor pointing at 1 plug). How do I get it to drop in? I dont have a tool to turn the motor, figured not to use the centerbolt. Is it safe to turn the motor over now?with the dist. just sitting on the intake? or should I try to lightly put the holdown on?

this pertains to a dist w locked out advance only...
rotate engine to 36° or 38° drop the dist in, line up the rotor edge w/#1 plug post
rotor turns clockwise
You can turn your oil pump drive shaft w/a long screwdriver to help the dist drop in.

Yup thats the ticket (screwdriver). If I get the rotor lined up at number one cylinder, with 36 at the balancer and 0 on the timing tab what affect does the distributor body have? Where should it be at this point? Also should the intake and exhaust rockers be up uniformally?

rotate engine to 36° or 38° drop the dist in, line up the rotor edge w/#1 plug post
rotor turns clockwise
Your on the compression stroke both valves are closed

Well?

Levon can you see inside my garage? Just got back in and "Houston we have ignition" I followed everyones advice actually. Got a remote starter from Princess auto, turned the motor to 36 lined up at the tab, turned the oil pump slot with a long screw driver toward number 5 cylinder, dropped in the distributor, would not start at first till I advanced the dist. housing a bit. Bang started up, seems to want about 1300 rpm at idle, tried about 900-800, sounded strange. 1300 rpm has about 10 to 11 inches vacuum in gear it drops to 950 ish rpm and has about 7 inches. Checked and I have exactly 36 degrees at idle we'll see if my factory starter can turn it over when its hot. Thanks to all that gave advice, this is how you learn hopefully I can help someone along the way.

Great to hear!!!!!!! Did you use the timing light?

Can you update your personal profile to include your name and loacation????

Yes I used one of those digital one's, goofy thing gets screwed up by the crane hi6 box I think, doesnt read over 1500 rpm. Turned the idle down to 950 pressed the advance increment on the digital timing light, read 36 on the LED that lined up zero mark on the balancer to the timing tab. Good idea for my profile.

Nice addition to the profile.:yes:

Are you happy with how the car is running? :thumbsup:
Have you tried a hot start?

Nice addition to the profile.:yes:

Are you happy with how the car is running? :thumbsup:
Have you tried a hot start?

Nice addition to the profile.

Are you happy with how the car is running? Have you tried a hot start?

Nice addition to the profile.

Are you happy with how the car is running? Have you tried a hot start? Hello Levon, been away for a while, have a new baby boy!! Let me update the car, locked out dist. at 36 (stalling issue, cam is 250 260 at .50 in 454 thought that was it)
checked float levels
gas filter
gas pressure
changed carb (pro systems brand new carb) to another 4150 carb still stalling.
checked for vaccum leaks with wd 40 and covering the carb.
Had to buy a start retard box, my heavy duty OEM starter wont start when hot, even after taking out 25* at start up.
Bought and installed the highest HP starter summit has, now the car starts with 36*, but still stalls ARRRG

Forgot here's a link to my 55 just about stalling at a stop sign, I give it a shot off gas or usually hold the brake and gas and I can keep it running. Goofy thing is it doesnt happen all the the time? YouTube - 55 chevy

TIM,BTW,if this is a street motor locking out the dist is really meant for mostly or complete strip use only,not on the street and locked out timing's very hard on the starter at times which can break the stater mounting area clean off the block. I have seen it happen mult times over the yrs when running locked out timing on the street where the motors get hotter & thats esp dangerious if your not running a stock gm starter brace.

Here is what you need to run on the street with that cam in a 454 for best results thats much easier on the starter with that 250deg dur@.05 cam in a STREET 454.

You need to run a dist with a vac adv setup for approx 16-18 deg mech in by 2800rpm to run with yes 20 deg base timing (thats 16 deg less starter friendly deg then the locked out 36 deg) with that 250 deg @.05 hot cam in a 454.

Then 20 deg base + 16-18 deg mech = 36-38 total which is good for the hot cam your running in your 454.

You also need a vac adv thats fully activated at 2" below the lowest idle vacuum with auto trans in gear and 20 deg base timing that give an additional 14 deg timing and hook it too full intake vacuum all the time because it will help the motor idle better too,esp with all that duration on the street.

If your going to try running this proper more street & starter friendly ign timing curve setup dont forget to unhook the vac adv and have motor idling as low as possible with that lrg cam when setting base timing to ensure the mech adv isnt partially activated at idle.

Just my 2 cents.

Scott

Hi Tim, congratulations on the baby. Years of "fun" with those ;). Never ending money pits as well.


Now to the car, go with Scotts suggestions. Get the timing right, with the vacuum advance working, then worry about the stalling. You mentioned model numbers but no details on the carb. That info may help.
Sounds like you have a runner; it just needs some tweeking.:yes:

If your stalling under hard braking, and braking coming down a hill, lower the rear float bowl 1/2 turn to start. Fule is spilling ober into the main body and stalling the car. Just had to do mine yesterday.

What will happen is the car will almost stall, then you have to blip the throttle and she'll come back around. Its kinda dangerous when you think about it - you can loose your power brakes there for a second.

Hi Tim, congratulations on the baby. Years of "fun" with those ;). Never ending money pits as well.


Now to the car, go with Scotts suggestions. Get the timing right, with the vacuum advance working, then worry about the stalling. You mentioned model numbers but no details on the carb. That info may help.
Sounds like you have a runner; it just needs some tweeking.:yes: I tried the 20 degree intial and 36 total, bought the vacuum can that pulls in early. Of course it didnt fit the msd pro bilet dist., didnt matter because at idle with 20 degrees I was only making 5 inches of vacuum ( I'm thinking this is all vacuumm related to the carb? Dont know) and the motor would stall. As I turned the dist. up to 36 I would get 10 or 11 inches and it would run (longer). Now Ive done all this and still wants to stall?

I bet if you had a vac adv dist with a vac can that gave a full 14 or so deg additional timing at idle it would idle much better because the 20 base + 14 or so from the vac adv will = 34 or so deg timing at idle which your hot perf would really benefit from . But it would only have 20deg base timing for easier starting,as soon as motor fires and pull vacuum on vac adv the idle timing goes back to 34 deg. You could even try running 22 deg base timing for an even better idle with 36 deg but that will push total from 36 to 38 with 22 base and 16 deg mech in dist when at WOT when vac adv is momentarilly deactivated if your setup can tolerate it.

I see too many times where people fall for the race dist with no vac adv for a street motor that has to idle with a big cam. Pull that non vac adv dist thats better suited for strip only and get a new one setup for 16deg mech in my 2800 rpm to run with 20 base for 36 total.ensure its setup with a vac adv thats fully activated at like 5"-6" vacuum& gives approx 14 deg more timing to ensure a stable idle ,attach the vauum hose to full vacuum all the time,ot ported vacuum with your setup.

Doing the above should fix the idle problems or at least make the idle a lot better so you can then dial in the carb better to make the idle the best it can be with your setup since the timing would be correctly setup at that point.

Scott

What do you have for a torque converter? What stall speed?

I've taken apart this distributor to lock it out on advice from guys who felt the cam was big and seems a few guys run their street cars like this with good results. The carb is from pro systems 4150 style custom built for my combo, cant remember the flow numbers 870 or 880 cfm. The trans is 400 turbo reverse manual with a 10 inch neil chance 3800 stall convertor. It seems it doesnt want to stall all the time? Could there be an issue with the convertor, could it drag the motor down when I'm not above 1500 rpms?

3800 stall should be enough to run. I ran a 4 speed 396 car with a bigger solid lifter cam than you have, and it would idle fine, about 1100 RPM. What does your car idle at in gear? Does your idle speed change with the engine temps? Is your PCV valve on it's own line, or T'eed in with something else?
Many questions, one answer! :D

Hey Dave, The motor idles around 1100 rpm in gear and 1300 or 1400 in park. Had it out tonight for a cruise doesnt seem to matter the temp, its always been unable too run till it heats up above 150 but thats probably normal. The new combo feels good but I'll slow down to a light or even roll to a stop and it want s to die until I goose it a bit. Worked a little on the 4 corner idle seems the back screws dont have any effect? I can turn them all the way in and the motor still runs, I have the fuel level down in the back bowl so if you push the quater panel you can see it slosh in the sightglass. Not sure if this is a clue because I've had the fuel level up higher last year. At idle I'm making around 10 inches of vacuum in gear around 7, how much should the reading change? Seems the reading is shaky, looks like it could bounce 2 inches of vacuum.