The ragjoint Connection somehow came apart... fortunately it happened in the garage! I don't know what happened but the plate at the end of the steering column "slipped" off the soft joint fittings. I've not messed with steering before so I have questions...

is the ragjoint all soft or is there a hard plate there too?

the plate at the bottom of the steering shaft that two notches and too holes. the rag joint pins should sit In those notches and bolts run through the ragjoint and that plate right? My main Concern is the plate isn't flat... it has 2 bends in it around the notches. Is that normal. ? with those bends the pins don't really sit deeply in the notches. seems warped. Can I replace it if need be or do I have to replace the entire Column? I'd like to replace the rag joint. In the NPs) Catalog they have the ragjuint repair kit which is the rag disc the Pins and the bolts. Thy also sell a steering Coupling which looks much poor substantial (and at $60 it should be!) . Anyone know the difference?

Are there any good directions you can point me to for pulling out the steering Column and maybe for replacing the rag joint?

It would be a big help if you could take a picture of the parts that you have. Also, I guess from your signature that you have a 1965 Chevelle. Flexible couplings and steering columns had fairly common designs starting with the energy absorbing steering columns in 1967. Before that time, Saginaw Steering Gear designed and manufactured tilt columns, Chevrolet (and other car divisions) designed the standard (non-adjustable) type steering columns. So I am not quite sure exactly what flexible coupling and steering column was in your car.

From your description the steering column flange (you called it a plate) sounds correct. I believe that the connection of the flexible coupling to the steering gear should look something like this picture.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y38/JIML82/FlesCplgSpacerPic-1.jpg


If it is a 1965, the steering shaft coming out of the steering column should be one piece all the way to the flange. You should either have to disconnect the steering column and pull it back into the passenger compartment to make room to install a new flexible coupling. Or else you will have to disconnect the steering gear from the frame to make room. Your flexible coupling should look something like this:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y38/JIML82/FlexCplgFeatures.jpg

I am generally not in favor of the flex coupling rebuild kits that are on the market for the following reason. If you look closely at the above picture, you will note that I have called out that there are shoulders on the bolts and stop pin parts. You should NEVER make a bolted connection just through rubber! You need for the bolted parts to shoulder out metal to metal for a secure connection. Many, many, of the rebuild kits supply just common bolts for the connection (not a very safe situation - you are steering your car through those parts.)

JIML82

superb info and thanks tons for the illustrations. My connection does look the photo and i see that the bends in the flange/plate are supposed to be there...that's a good thing. The bolts DO just shoulder out against that rubber. Seems crazy to me! What I DON'T have is the plastic spacer piece (the light colored item in the photo). I take it then it would be your recommendation NOT to just buy the repair kit, but get the entire coupling assembly. here is Ground Up's....look right?
http://www.ss396.com/mm5/graphics/00000007/ATE-8869.jpg

So, since I'm going to replace the joint, which is easier...pulling the column up enough or dropping the steering box enough? Can you point me to some basic steps to pulling the column? I assume I need to use a wheel puller onthe steering wheel, right?

Again..thannks TONS.

Is this a power steering car ? If so I could go through step by step to convert to a 12.5 to 1 ( about 2 3/4 turns lock to lock ) very inexpensively (sp). Using pull you own parts place if there is on near your residence. I live in Balto. MD and they must scrap 1,000 cars a week, finding what you need around here is easy and ridiculously cheap.

yes, it is PS and I've looked at that swap. Something I plan to do when the $ is there. the rebuilt ones go for up near $300. The parts yards here are few and far between but if I were to be able to find a box that fits, what do I look for?
thanks!