I finished up one of my seats tonight and wanted to share an easy method that I came up with of drawing the cover bolsters down to the springs. I would like to start with thanking those of you on the board who have provided most of these tips already which are available through searching the archives. As seen in the pics I used about 2 layers of burlap topped off with 2 layers of cotton batting. The seat foam and seats were bought through The Parts Place in Elburn. Not sure of the brand but they seemed to work fine. The top cover had no center bolsters so that went fairly quick. I applied the garbage bag method over the foam and frame to keep the two together but don't know how much good it did because it was one of the large brown ones and fit kind of loose- kitchen bag wouldn't fit. Had to do some minor trimming of the foam then started zip tying and hog ringing the cover to the upper frame. When I got to the bottom I knew there no way of getting a hog ring through the seat foam and all the other layers to draw the bolster down the seat springs so I resorted to zip ties. The zip ties ended up being too flimsy and were bending in between the layers so I got frustrated and quit for the night. The next day I came up with the idea of using a tube (as seen in the pics) to channel the zip tie through the foam, burlap, and cotton. To get the female end of the zip tie back through and down underneath simply move the tube to the other side and feed back through. I pre-punched each hole first with large scissors so the tube would slide through easier. Once back through just pull the tube off the zip tie and zip together around a seat spring. Once you get the rythym down the tube (leftover ice maker line for fridge) works very slick- cut the time in half I would guess, and a lot less stress on the fingers. Make sure your lower cover is centered before you start zipping it down. I am not stating that this is the correct and only method- it just worked really well for me. Thanks again to all of you for the help you have provided me with my '72.

Burlap laying on frame.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/002.jpg

Cotton and burlap hogged in place
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/003.jpg

This picture should actually be after the next one because I already punched the hole with scissors to get tube up.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/006.jpg

Punching hole to send tube and zip tie up
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/007.jpg

Zip tie up and ready to go back down. Must punch hole first with my scissors.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/008-1.jpg

Zip tie now around coat hanger wire in bolster and heading back down to seat springs
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/010-1.jpg

Slid coat hanger around the outside bolsters
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/011.jpg

Started zipping and hogging
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/013-1.jpg


Got one seat done and am very happy with it. If I were to get picky I could criticize the LH seam being off about 1/2". I think if I massage it a little I can get it to line up better.
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g60/cwiehle/Chris%20Pics/014.jpg

Chris,
I used the same method (Zip ties)when I recovered the seats on our '67 and it worked great. I did not think of the tube trick, but I was able to thread the Zip Ties through the layers of material using a slightly different method. I first pushed an Awl through the fabric and followed it with a 3/8 wide plastic strip like they use for banding boxes, cut to a rounded point on the end. The Zip Tie slid along the strip very easily and once the Zip Tie was in place I removed the plastic strip. Thanks for the "tube" idea. The seats you did look great. :thumbsup:

Nice!!! :thumbsup:

Chris,
I used the same method (Zip ties)when I recovered the seats on our '67 and it worked great. I did not think of the tube trick, but I was able to thread the Zip Ties through the layers of material using a slightly different method. I first pushed an Awl through the fabric and followed it with a 3/8 wide plastic strip like they use for banding boxes, cut to a rounded point on the end. The Zip Tie slid along the strip very easily and once the Zip Tie was in place I removed the plastic strip. Thanks for the "tube" idea. The seats you did look great. :thumbsup:
Basically the same idea, either way would work:beers:

That is a pretty cool trick I must say...I am going to have to remember it...

I have messed with so many seats it would probably make you guys sick how easy it is for me to hog ring covers on...hahahaha

That is a pretty cool trick I must say...I am going to have to remember it...

I have messed with so many seats it would probably make you guys sick how easy it is for me to hog ring covers on...hahahaha
What's your trick to getting the ring through all that stuff? I Have done a few sets of C3 Corvette seats but they were pretty easy to get the bolster down to the springs.

If it is original bun it is simply a matter of hitting the same spot...if you'll notice on all those chevelle and camaro seats and what not there is a cardboard covered wire that is fastened to the s springs...that is the animal that you want to hook the seat cover listings to...on brand new buns I stab them with my scissors firsts...then I load the hog ring pliers and just push them through and grab a holt of that cardboard covered wire...

68 and 70 and those years of Corvettes don't use hog rings to attach the insert listings to the frame...they have 2 or 3 different sized wire like hooked spring contraptions that perform this task...they are a total nightmare to do properly...