I'm in the middle of my 9'' swap here, and I just pulled my old control arms out. They are well.... not so sturdy anymore. I was thinking of getting the Jegs lift bars and upper tubular arms. Anyone used these, or something like them? Anything better?

I'm running the Jegster upper and lower tubular pars. Love them. When I got my car, It had stock uppers and lowers with Lakewood traction bars. Rear would lift up on launch. Installed the Jegster's and left the T-bars off. Car hooks real well with a little rearend squat and goes straight with no twist.

Stock uppers with rubber bushings, or Edelbrock adjustable uppers with spherical bearings (and use rubber bushings in the housing ears, not the supplied poly)

Currie lowers, or stock boxed with rubber in at least one end.

If you need more anti-squat, look at UMI's lower relocation brackets. :)

I say edelbrock adj. uppers and boxed lowers with hotchkis bars should be pretty nice in the rear, and front with gobal west tubular uppers and lowers with a hotchkis bar. Pretty simple install with great results.

I used the Jegs lowers in my 69, the 1" sway bar bolted up nicely to them. The rear of the car is nice and tight handling.

Probably should have mentioned, not looking for handling here, looking more for launching.

Probably should have mentioned, not looking for handling here, looking more for launching.
UMI spherical-end arms with their relocation brackets..
And Edelbrock Uppers.

Just like Derek said. Wether your launching or turning, Bind is NOT good.

I got Currie lowers and Edel uppers.................still sitting in boxes. Someday they will reunite with the frame.

Currie uppers and lowers and use quality stock rubber bushings in the ears on the axle. UMI's arms with rod ends will tighten things up but will also make the whole car more harsh and when they begin to quickly wear, get loose and buzz you'll be wanting to replace them anyway. Currie arms tighten things up just as much without the harshness and provide far superior longevity.

So is this an overall no-go on the lift bars?

What is this UMI kit you guys keep on talking about?

My mount kit comes with poly bushings, so I'm guessing I shouldn't use them?

I have the Jegster lowers and my car hooks great! Was behind an 11 second BBC and now with my SBC. I still need to install my new upper control arms and rubber bushings from BMR Fabrications but the straightline performance is very good. I'm having the Hotchkis Extreme swaybar set delivered today to improve overall handling.
Good Luck!!

If you don't currently have any wheel hop the lift bars aren't needed. The UMI lower relocation brackets do the same thing and are easier to install and provide some amount of adjustment.

The relocation brackets can be found here: http://www.umiperformance.com/products.php?category_id=17

All poly rear end bushings can be acceptable for basic driving (some folks have reported problems, I've personally not experienced the same issues) and can provide some improvement over worn rubber bushings on the street, but arms with rod ends or (better yet) johnny joints (ie: Currie arms) will remove bind from the rear suspension and will improve daily driving performance, hard cornering performance and drag strip performance. Just makes sense to go with a set up that will improve ALL aspects because you never know what you might want to do with your car next! Once you can make it go around a corner better you might find drag strip performance may not be all you really want from it.

So do I use stock lowers with the UMI kit, or can I use like the jegs tubular ones?

You can use any stock or aftermarket.

Use the Jegster or other aftermarket lowers with the UMI kit. I have no isues with the Poly bushings but if you wish, You can replace the Poly bushings on the Axle end with a good stock type rubber bushing.