i was looking at the two cam degree kits from jegs, the proform (90) and the comp cams degree kit (140) , and also the expensive crane cam kit (180)...

is there any real difference between the kits? i am on a budget and i want to get the cam dialed in right. i would normally reach straight for the proform kit, but i'm afraid to touch it because i hear it's offshore made. the last "precision" offshore tool i got was a dial caliper that was off by .005", so i'm kind of worried.

thanks

one more note: i was in a rush to get the motor together, so i've already fired it up and everything... is it possible to degree the motor with the heads still on?

Just go for a good quality, brand name, as large as practicle degree wheel.Yes you can degree off the retainer using a light checking spring and zero lash.....try it :cool:

I assume you just want to check the cam timing after the fact. Fairly easy to check cam timing with just your damper. First, make sure the "0" timing mark on the timing tab matches up with the damper mark. Go to the cam manufacturer's site and get the lobe lift data for your cam lobe. They will typically list a lobe lift at 106ICL and 110ICL.

IE - cam lobe data is .072 lift @ 106ICL. First rotate the motor to get a reading from the base circle of the lobe (#1). Then rotate the motor to get the verified balancer/"0" timing mark lined up. Then measure the intake lobe lift for #1. You will need to measure off a fixed point on the lifter side of the rocker as close to the centerline of the lifter as possible. If you cam measure directly off the lifter is best. In the above example if the reading is .072, you have the cam @ 106ICL. If it reads .068, the cam is retarded, if it reads .080, it is further advanced. A lot will depend on how accurate your measuring tools are.

You don't need a kit if you already had a dial indicator with a mag base. You just need the wheel and a length of coat hanger you can bend to use as a pointer. I paid $20 for a wheel becasue I had a mag-base DI. It works just fine.

Troy.

so degree wheel, $20, how much is a fair price for a magnetic base dial indicator? $40? sounds like it could save a few bucks.

I am degreeing the cam because I had some problems installing it; I had to adjust the cam phasing (retarded) to gain extra piston to valve clearance to greater than .100"

That sounds about right. It won't be a top of the line mag base/indicator but it should do the job. Repeatability is the most important thing for degreeing the CAM. Check with harbour freight if you have one in the area. If not, get on-line and find one. One of those crank turning sockets is nice too. You can't use a breaker bar in it when your wheel is on the crank but you can use a pipe wrench on the outside of the socket to turn the crank and it protects your crankshaft from getting bunged up. You can pick them up for about $10.

Troy.

GRN69CHV's method works great for checking cam phasing with the engine assembled and in the car. Another twist on his practical method is to measure for .050" tappet rise. Just about the same procedure as he described. Turn the engine to find true base circle, zero out your dial indicator and keep turning until the lifter rises .050" then note how far BTDC you are. If cam card calls for 5 degrees BTDC at .050" intake tappet rise and you are at 7 then you have the cam advanced two degrees (events are happening sooner).

Wow, the base stand and dial indicator was $15 at Harbor Freight!! The part numbers are 05645 for the stand with fine adjustment and 00623 for the indicator, both are Cen-Tech brand. Online they were about $35 combined, but if you ring it up in store it was about $7 each, what a nice suprise, hehe...

I will have to tkae the motor out anyways because I need to change the timing cover seal (it's leaking), repair the stripped crank snout, and replace the throttle pedal bracket that's behind the engine. Who knows, I may even swap the cam if it jsut won't clear right...