I installed a new master booster and dual bowl MC and ran new hardlines throughout. I bled the MC (looped lines back to itself and pumped the brakes until the air bubbles were no more. Then I hooked up the main lines to move to bleed the system. I opened up the bleeder on the left rear wheel, pumped the brakes and got nothing. I didn't even look as if the fluid level was dropping at all in the MC. I pumped and pumped but nada. Am i doing something wrong?

Also, i CAN'T get to the front bleeders. I can just barely get a 5/16 wrench on them but can't get nearly enough leverage to break them loose with the tiny little wrench and don't have enough clearance to get a socket on them. Is there a trick to this?

here is a question i might have oughta asked earlier... with a dual bowl MC, is the front bowl for the front brakes or does it vary from MC to MC?

sometimes it takes a while for the fluid to get there

sometimes you have to make sure you put the correct rod into mc/booster
they usualy give you 2 sizes

........

btw do you have a proportioning valve on your 65? ..if you do ....sometimes that pin thing you hav eto push in ...

make sure you bleed the mc separately

and go easy on the bleeders up front ...dont break em ..soak em up

and yes the front bowl on mc is front brakes..

I only got one size rod and this kit has been used by others with the same car so Id bet its right.

I bled the MC out before hooking it up

BUT..
"sometimes you have to push in the small pin in the proportioning valve"

i was wondering about that little pin on the front! What is that? There is a "nut" sticking out of the valve and in the center is what I would call a pin. Can you explain more?

Thanks for the great info

when I fill dry lines ..I crack the bleeders open or dont connect the lines and just fill up the mc
with brake fluid and then wait a while till fluid gets to it and then I bleed ....

Ok. I was able to bleed out the rears at the bleeders. The best I could do for the fronts is bleed them at the connection from hard line to hose. I'm gong to take the car over to brake shop and let them screw with bleeding the fronts. The pedal is still really soft. with the wheels off the sound, the wheels stop fine but on the ground the Car doesn't stop Well at all. Do I need to bleed them more again?

Question regarding setup: the kit I bought came with a proportioning valve...really pretty one..all chrome and shiny. lol. I have drum/drum still with the intent to move to front discs soon, but i wanted to use the proportioning valve now when running the lines, but it's made for disc/drum. i asked the manufacturer about it and he said that I can use it but his only concern is that if I have to stomp the breaks, the backs might lock up a bit. Does that sound right or might this be the problem with my soft breaks not stopping the car? IS it ok to have a disc/drum prop valve in place with drum/drum setup for a little while?

oh ...you have drums all around ....I thought discs up front ...

make sure you have adjusted the brakes manually first then bleed again ....

I'm not to sure on proportioning valve for disc set up on all drum system ..usually its a distribution block (almost same as prop valve) but it gives equal pressure....

and when you bleed from lines ....ya never get the air out 100% but better than nothing :yes:

* if you dont have a solid pedal ..dont take risks and driving around town ...:noway:

i have not yet readjusted the brakes, but will. I was taught that when adjusting them, the fronts should spin by hand with just a hair of drag but most importantly they be even. Sound right? What is the best rule of thumb to adjust the rears?

Believe me, i can't put it on the road like this but thanks for the kind warning! LOL

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1121/1429983171_4a12ccb0bb.jpg?v=0

I usually crank em up a bit on the high side ...a bit more then a slight drag

medium drag :)

same for the rears in neutral?

yep...

adjust em ....bleed em ..and your pedal should be better ...