I scored 2 quarts of Gm's Engine Oil Supplement. I bought from a dealer in Georgia. $27 shipped. This stuff is becoming scarce. It has a lot of very good anti-wear elements for engine start-up. Of coarse something that is good for your motor, the EPA is whinning about to the manufacture to discontinues.

Hey guys,
Do you guys normally use the hole bottle of EOS (approx half a quart) when doing a oil change?? I am lucky up here (Canada) we still have it. I bought 8 bottles last month.

Hey guys,
Do you guys normally use the hole bottle of EOS (approx half a quart) when doing a oil change?? I am lucky up here (Canada) we still have it. I bought 8 bottles last month.

I read on this forum to add 0.5 to 0.6 ounces of EOS per each quart of oil. So for a five quart oil change you would add 2.5 ounces of EOS.

YES THAT .5-.6 OZ EOS PER QT OIL WAS SUGGESTED IN THE LN ENGINEERING/PORCHE OIL TEST REPORT DONE EARLIER THIS YR .

But some T/Cr's have chimed in to say more eos is required in some cases esp with the ZDDP lvlv is particulary low in the oil your adding it to which makes total sence to me so keep that in mind to.

Search this item # 180156308643 called ZDDPlus in ebay and your problems will be over .

Scott

Can someone "Please" answer the question about the detergent in the new formula of oil's.
I read a few post where it was stated the detergent would wash the ZDDP of the parts rendering no or little protection?
Is that true, if so what oils are safe to use?
Would Rotella w/EOS added be a good choice?
Or is there a better option like maybe a lucas or Red Line oil?
I am really confused on this?
T.C.

The higher detrgent lvl washing off/stripping zddp off engine parts was stated in the by NASACR/JOE GIBBS RACING/PORCHE in the LN ENGINEERING OIL TEST REPORT .

I would not use the new refomulated CJ rated oil.

Search this item in eaby 180156308643 called ZDDPlus,it should be what you need used with convetional motor oil.

Scott

Forgive me if this sounds stupid, I have a gal. of rotella 15/40 that was made this year.
It states on the label it is rated CJ-4,CI-4,CH-4,CF-4/SM,SL,SJ
So just the fact it has the "CL-4" on the label makes it no good?
Am I to look for an oil that has just the "CI" rating and no others?
Whats acceptable and how can one tell if the oil has detergent in it, will that be stated on the label ?
T.C.

I kinda want to know that too!!

AC Delco still sells EOS under their label...

I havent had a problem finding the EOS, I'm just confused as to what oil is safe to use that I can add the EOS to that doesnt have to much detergent in it?

T.C.

Check this out!
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

CJ rated roetella is no good because it has the lower/reduced zddp lvl(less then .1%/1000ppm) thats not enough to properly protect flat tappet cam not to mention the high detergent lvl stripping off the ZDDP in some cases too.

Search the ZDDPlus using the eaby item id i stated above and you will have what you need.

Scott

I also have just scored on 7 bottles of the EOS at a local Chevy dealer, plus Rotella CI-4 in the quarts and a couple of 5 gallon containers at a local Advance Auto Parts, he told me to go to their local Distribution center if I needed more of the old stuff.

I run the Castrol 20w50 oil that is "designed for classic engines" recomended here (http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1483774&postcount=67)

What I don't understand is if the oil still has the SF rating BUT is still made post Jan 07 does it still have the zddp in it. The Accell 10-40 oil from Walmart still has the SF rating and states its only for pre88 cars. I have just recieved the zddpplus additive stated above. 6 bottles for $ 49 shipped, guess I'll add it to be safe...

Rick

I scored 2 quarts of Gm's Engine Oil Supplement. I bought from a dealer in Georgia. $27 shipped. This stuff is becoming scarce. It has a lot of very good anti-wear elements for engine start-up. Of coarse something that is good for your motor, the EPA is whinning about to the manufacture to discontinues.

Is it getting hard to find?
I go up to my local Chevy dealer and get it, no problems so far.
(keeping my fingers crossed)

Is it getting hard to find?
I go up to my local Chevy dealer and get it, no problems so far.
(keeping my fingers crossed)

The GM EOS is discontinued with no GM replacement coming... That's why I posted about the AC Delco EOS it's still in production...

What I don't understand is if the oil still has the SF rating BUT is still made post Jan 07 does it still have the zddp in it. The Accell 10-40 oil from Walmart still has the SF rating and states its only for pre88 cars. I have just recieved the zddpplus additive stated above. 6 bottles for $ 49 shipped, guess I'll add it to be safe...

Rick


An SF rating is a requirement for the manufacturer. We on this this thread are talking about going beyond the requriements of the manufactures and trying to find out what is best for our engines. Correct me please if I am wrong.



The API system for rating oil classifies oil according to its performance characteristics. The higher rated oils contain additives that provide maximum protection against rust, wear, oil oxidation, and thickening at high temperatures. The oil service ratings are as follows:

1. SA—adequate for utility engines subjected to light loads, moderate speeds, and clean conditions. Contains no additives.
2. SB—adequate for automotive use under favorable conditions (light loads, low speeds, and moderate temperatures) with relatively short oil change intervals. Generally offers only minimal protection to the engine against bearing scuffing, corrosion, and oil oxidation.
3. SC—meets oil warranty requirements for 1964 through 1967 automotive gasoline engines.
4. SD—meets oil warranty requirements for 1968 through 1970 automotive gasoline engines. Offers additional protection over SC oils that are necessary with the introduction of emission controls.
5. SE—meets oil warranty requirements for 1972 through 1979 automotive gasoline engines. Stricter emission requirements created the need for this detergent oil.
6. SF—meets oil warranty requirements for 1980 through 1988 automotive gasoline engines. The SF oil is designed to meet the demands of small, high-revving engines. A SF oil can be used in all automotive vehicles requiring detergent oil.
7. SG—meets oil warranty requirements for 1989 through present automotive gasoline engines. Contains more additives than SF oils. Can be used as CC or diesel type oils. It is a detergent oil.
8. CA—meets all requirements for naturally aspirated diesel engines operated on low sulfur fuel.
9. CB—meets all requirements for naturally aspirated diesel engines operated on high sulfur fuel.
10. CC—meets all requirements for lightly supercharged diesel engines.
11. CD—meets all requirements for
moderately supercharged diesel engines.

After reading the material. I have come to conclusion that: I do not need detergent motor oil. I need at lease .12% levels of zinc and phosphorus found in motor oils, more exactly, the zinc (Zn) and phosphorus (P) that makes up the anti-wear additive ZDDP, zinc dialkyl dithiosphosphate for start up and break in and maintenance. This is ideal for Zn and P levels as documented by the 1977 SAE Journal paper titled "Cam and Lifter Wear as Affected by Engine Oil ZDP Concentration and Type", which evaluated the performance of these oils in various fleets around the country over the span of many years.The reduced current levels of Zn and P are API standard is SM, and calls for 0.06-0.08% Zn and P. This is due to that the good stuff that protects the motor (60-70's) is damaging to the catalytic converter. To which most people do not care about on there classic cars that never had to or will ever make that grade. Thanks for all the help.

Please, Let us know when you find this oil and who makes it .
T.C.

The local Chevy dealer has had it on backorder since July. Says a substitute may come in its place. I've got an engine I want to break in soon.

They say that this is the best non-detergent motor oil.

http://www.eliteetc.com/exoil.html

and this is the best break-in oil. It has .14% Zn and P already in the oil.

http://www.amref.com/bp_pb/7120_BP_PENN-GRADE_1_Break-In_Oil_PB.pdf

I just run valvoline conventional racing oil

I says "not street legal" on the bottle.

I believe it 20-50 and they also have a synthetic conventional racing oil, but i use the non-synthetic