Hello everyone one. My 396 is at the machine shop getting cleaned and I thought I would look into cams since this is the first part that should be put in during a rebuild.

I'm not sure that cam I should get. So many options. So far I'm hoping the block doesnt need to be bored. Its an old 396 that hasn't run for YEARS.

'67 396 Chevelle SS
3904390 Oval 96.4cc Closed Chamber (2.06 / 1.72 vavles)
Original style high rise Q-jet Manifold w/ Carb
Forged steel crank, and cast stock pistons.
I'll be putting headers on it, using a M-21 Muncie and 4.10 Posi.
The car will be driven on the street but want it to sound like it has somewhat of a cam to it. And able to run vaccum power brakes.

Any suggestions?

I saw Crane has a Blueprint Musclecap Cam thats suppose to be a 396/350hp drop in for a reference.
270-969391 214/218 Dur@50, 461/480 lift, 1500-3800 rpm

Since you have 4.10's a Comp 270H or 280H would be good choice..if not those exact cams,something close,like 230 @.050 .500-.530 lift 110 or 112 LSA

I just did the same to my 396 and put this Comp Cams in:

Chevy 396-454 Magnum Muscle 280S Cam
Code:11-551-5
Price: $228.80
Quantity in Basket: none
SOLID-Magnum muscle camshaft for, 396 cu.in., 1967-69 Z28, Factory 375 H.P., 402 cu.in., 1970, Factory 375 H.P., 427 cu.in., 1967-69, Factory 425/435 H.P.,454 cu.in, 1970 LS6, Factory 450/465 H.P., 454 cu.in., 1971- LS-6, Factory, 425 H.P.

To see the specs: http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Search/CamDetails.asp?PartNumber=11-551-5

I have the M-21 with 3.73's and it really woke the engine up! Tires brake loose on acceleration easily. Highly recommend this cam.

11-551-5 280S cam is listed as a Solid-jet Boat with A or B Impeller.

A boat cam for a classic boat smile.gif

I see the Solid lifter cams have more lift on them. Are these better than hydrolic ones?

Oopps they also list this cam as a high compression muscle car cam... smile.gif

The solid cams ramp up faster than a hydraulic and will get you the HP faster. However, the down side is you have to adjust the lash more often and they make a clattering noise. I love the sound and someone recommended I go solid and not hydraulic so I did and have not looked back since. I did put in the recommended springs, lifters, and roller rockers.

If I stay with Hydraulic lifters...

270H or 280H sounds good, but would the 280H allow for vaccum brakes and still run on the road well?

Still just thinking...

The 280S that I have has plenty of vacuum for my brakes. If I remember correctly, I have 9 (or is it 11?) in vacuum at idle and have no problems with my power disk front and drum rear brakes. There is no need for a brake booster of any type. Brakes work perfect at all rpm's. A hydraulic would be easier to maintain but I can't answer the overall performance difference you'd have between the 280H and 280S. No matter what cam you go with, make sure you break it in according to manufacturers suggestion and be sure to pull the inner springs out (if cam requires double springs) of the valves for break in.

Check out this one from Lunati.. Lunati 02005

Another marine application that made real nice power in my 396.

cam specs:

advertised duration int/exh: 302/308 degrees

Duration @ .050" int/exh: 224/234 degrees

Lift @ valve int/exh: .534/.559"

Lift @ lobe int/exh: .311/.324"

LSA 114 degrees. intake CL=110

opens/closes @.050": 2 deg BTDC, 42 deg ABC/ 55 deg BBC, -1 deg ATC

This one made between 11-13" vacuum at idle, runs my power brakes just fine, nice lumpy idle.

Please consider an Isky 280 Mega on 110 centers if you want to stay hy-cammed!

Otherwise, imho, a solid cam will usually make something like 3 to 4 percent more power everywhere then an identical spec'ed hy-cam b/c it can knock the valves open faster and thus create more torque..

And I like the sewing machine sound of a solid b/c it reminds me of power!! I went with a goood old CC 282S solid in my about 9.8 to 1 CR., 496" motor for max. midrange grunt!!

pdq67