Over the week end I started cleaning the body with wire brush and removed most of the top rust with metal prep and naval jelly.

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l9/dlplett/DCP07436.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l9/dlplett/DCP07437.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l9/dlplett/DCP07439.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l9/dlplett/DCP07440.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l9/dlplett/DCP07441.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l9/dlplett/DCP07442.jpg
http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l9/dlplett/DCP07443.jpg

From the beginning I had planned to have the body sandblasted. Now that I have it this far would I still be advised to sandblast or should I just finish hand prepping the body before priming? I do have a small sandblaster to spot blast small areas.

Another question: I have a gallon of Sherwin-Williams Spectra Prime P30. What is the proper body prep before priming?

It depends on how nice you want it to be. I would sandblast it, but don't sandblast the top, hood, deck lid, inside or outside the quarters, or the fenders.

Somebody that is really, really good at blasting could do it, but I would ask him how he does it without warping the panels.

As for the Sherwin-Williams paint you have, I would get a product sheet for it, then make sure all your different materials will be compatible.

You need to research all the fillers and primers etc. you will be using.

If you do sandblast it, you will find the imperfections in it, and it also makes it good to spray some kind of epoxy primer over it.

If you want it right, sandblast and epoxy.

After its sandblasted, don't touch it with your bare hands or anything else, just take an air gun and blow it off really good. Then spray your epoxy right away.

Rob

Almost forgot, put that spot blaster on the shelf, and buy or rent or borrow a presssurized blaster. Remember silica sand or black beauty or whatever, protect yourself from it when your blasting.

Rob

Thanks Rob

I was leaning toward having it sandblasted from the beginning. Getting the car and rotisserie on the car trailer might be a challenge. Hmmm, Maybe I can get the blaster to come to the garage.

So you would go with an epoxy primer instead of the p30?

After a quick search that P30 primer is a DTM primer. IMO these primers are geared for the collision shops who want to skip the "primer" stage.
PPG has a product like this with the NCP series of primers, they are basically a epoxy/urethane hybrid. Its nothing more then a fancy urethane primer that sticks better to metal.

You simply will not achieve the adhesion and corrosion resistance like a stand alone epoxy primer. I would apply two coats of epoxy primer on the bare metal.
Then you can use the p30 primer as a blocking or surfacer primer to level out any surface imperfections.

On any surfaces not blasted Id da sand with 80grit to provide the mechanical tooth needed for epoxy

Do you have a S/W epoxy primer you would recommend? I found E2A933 - DTM 3.5 VOC EPOXY PRIMER. I don't know what the DTM stands for.
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=28846&cat=115

I'm not necessarily tied to SW products but I already have the P30 primer. If there is a better brand I could see if one of the other local stores carry it.

To be honest, I don't know anything about p30, it might be better then what I use, because I've never tried it. Is it an epoxy primer?

I know how to work with ppg epoxy, and the old siphon gun I have, with the big nozzels will spray it.

But, as I mentioned earlier, get all your ducks in a row before you even sandblast it.

Make sure all your primers and paints and fillers are compatible.

I would get all the product sheets for everything your going to put on the body, read them over a few times until you understand exactly how your going to do it.

Then pay close attention to the temperatures your spraying at, time in between coats, and air pressure at the gun, nozzel size, that way you are eliminating all of the error you can.

One thing I would recommend is acryi-clean DX 330 by ppg, use it before sanding and before you paint anything including the primer. Its not the fastest drying wax and grease remover, it drys pretty fast, but stays wet long enough to give you time to wipe it off, and only wipe one way, then turn your rag or cloth over, but always wipe one way, never back and fourth.

While I'm typing, I might as well give you some more things to file away.

I just went out and got my pre and post paint checklist, and I always use it, saves me buying more paint.

Here it is.:)

Pre paint check list=

Exhaust fan on

Blow out garage and benches and lights and shelves with 125 lbs air pressure

Wet mop the garage ( shop ).

Clean air hose with laquer thinner

Wet down the paint room floor ( homemade booth )

Put mesh filter on intake pipe into paint room

Little red metal cans full of lacquer thinner to clean the spray gun

Clean cheap paper paint suit

vinyl gloves laid out

Clean supplied air hose with lacquer thinner

Or respirator with up to date filters

Remove and replace old masking tape and paper

Tack rag parts and masking paper and paint gun and 20 feet of paint hose

Clean masking paper on mixing table, taped down.

Clean filters for straining paint

Roll of paper towels

Cheap mechanical paint mixer with drill

Paint measuring cups recleaned with lacquer thinner, little spray can

Any wires holding parts or stands for holding parts, sprayed with lacquer thinner and blown off and a quick tack rag of them

Now this might sound kind of anal, but I only have to do it once, unless I don't like the color, then its bead blasted and start over again.

I don't have problems with dirt or fisheyes in my paint or primer, it somes out clean. So I figure its all worth it.

I put a sign on my shop door when I'm painting, please shut this door lightly, no slamming around or fast movements

I have a post paint check list, but you don't need that.

Pretty long winded here, but maybe some body can use this, lets see here, what was the original question, I forgot.:)

Rob

Dan, it took me a while to type this up, and I didn't see where you and Eric had posted something, anyway for whats it worth I'll leave it here.

Eric understands the paint and primer game, just don't let him talk you into that cheaper:) spi epoxy:) no wait not cheaper, just priced less then ppg:)

Rob

Everyone just watch for Rob when he wears his Clean cheap paper paint suit with his vinyl gloves laid out:yes: That is a scary sight to see, LOL:D

Bradford,:) you forget, I'm retired, and I work from 2am until 5am, everybodys asleep, so nobody gets to see me.:D

DTM stands for Direct To Metal. Ive not sprayed S-W products in almost 6yrs so I have NO idea what products they offer and which ones to choose.
Stop by your local S-W store and see what they say.
Reading the little bit the link says about the paint its looks like a good choice for bare metal, but it would be wise to research it more.

So all this information we get from you is six years old, there goes all your credibility, well maybe the metalwork is up to date.:)

Rob, the last time I sprayed S-W products was around 6yrs ago so my knowledge of S-W has slipped because I no longer use that line.
Also haven't sprayed PPG other then DBC in 3yrs. You can thank SPI for that.

Let me know if you want that extra junk DPLF that I have, I need to make room, plus its kinda stinking up the garage:yes:

Good one, you got me laughing out loud.:thumbsup:

Thanks for the advice and humor. I'll pull the product sheets and check them out. Other comments welcomed.

Rob, if you like that DPLF junk you'd probably be really impressed with EPX-907. I used EPX for quite awhile when DPLF wasn't cutting the mustard and it works OK-never any problems. And if you want a really high quality product try SPI.

I'll tell you what Bob, I really appreciate you and Eric steering me to the good stuff, SPI, I think I'll disassemble this chassis and sandblast this PPG DP EPOXY junk off, put the good stuff on.:)

36

http://www.1969supersport.com/047.jpg

BACK TO MAIN PAGE (http://www.1969supersport.com/index.html)

I sprayed some DPLF 90 this weekend and it came out pretty good for a novice. The spec sheet says 1.4-1.6 tip.

Almost forgot, put that spot blaster on the shelf, and buy or rent or borrow a presssurized blaster. Remember silica sand or black beauty or whatever, protect yourself from it when your blasting.

Rob
Put it away, before you get tempted. You'll spend hours - of frustration and clogged tube - where a pro will do it in 2 minutes.

Put it away, before you get tempted. You'll spend hours - of frustration and clogged tube - where a pro will do it in 2 minutes.

I hear you. I have blasted a few spots for plug welds and other small areas. It doesn't take long to decide it is going to take long. I got the lead on a couple of local 'blasters' and will be contacting them. Until then I'm looking at DTM epoxy primers.

Has anyone heard of or used Keystone paint products?

http://www.keystone-auto.com/bodyshops/autobody-supplies.html

It looks like I have 3 options locally for paint.

Napa - Martin Senor and Crossfire
Parts Plus - Sherwin Williams
Keystone - Keystone produces.

With the recent personnel turn overs the most knowledgeable person is at the Keystone store.

Still checking.

Dan, are you planning on doing all the primer yourself, and then have somebody do the finish paint.

If you are, I would talk to the painter before you put any primer on it, see what he has to say, and give him your game plan up front.

Rob

Rob
I plan to paint this car myself. Having said that there is a local body shop that I have done business with in the past. One car I disassembled, let them do the body work, prime, paint and then I reassembled. On another I did the body work primed the body and paint the jambs then let them shoot the exterior.

Hmmm! Good suggestion, It would make sense to use the products (Sherwin-Williams) they are familiar with. They are the ones that did recommend the P30.

Sandblast or hand prep?----It's not a issue anymore! :noway:

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l9/dlplett/DCP07467.jpg

http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l9/dlplett/DCP07462.jpg

Now to patch a few holes that the sandblasting revealed then a little DTM epoxy primer.