okay, what would you put in a street driven motor with my cam of 258/268@.5 680/700 lift solid roller lunati. Are the4 shubecks proven at all in a mostly street application, they have some interesting takes on what happens to the needle bearings in a roller lifter, getting oil to them seems to make little difference in there eyes. Basically it just prolongs the inevitable failure longer. Are the shubecks going to be the last lifter I will probably ever buy or should i just figure on the iskys and get them rebuilt every couple years.

Mike aka wolfplace sells Isky's at a good price.

yea i know that, just wonder about the reliablity vs the roller x. According to the shubeck ad, there is a good reason the iskys are rebuildable, its because they need to be, from all the pounding on the needle bearings and eventually they get flat enuff they fail.

The rollerX is new technology which is fine, but they are unproven and have no track record to show their reliable in racing or street applications....basically experimental IMO.

If you feel like being Shubecks Guinee pig, then go ahead and buy a set...get back to us in 6 months or a year and give us an update on how there holding up, of course monthly removal and inspection would be needed to monitor how there holding up. I personally would look at a proven product with many, many racers with proven reliability...that comes down to two main players IMO...Crower severe duty with HIPPO or the Isky Red Zones.

At this day and age, I feel there's no real need to re-invent the wheel, rather work within the current technologies limitations.

What about Crower severe duty with high pressure pin oiling? Ed had 900 passes on his,replaced them and sold the old ones I believe.

I agree its new tech, nobody has ran them yet?

Also, this is a street motor, 9oo passes isn't 250 miles.I will probably use the iskys, but wondered about the shubecks.

Originally posted by orange2:
Also, this is a street motor, 9oo passes isn't 250 miles. WTF???

Do you have any idea how much abuse a drag motor would see in that time span of 900 passes? That is unhead of IMO...many replace lifters in a drag application at anywhere from 400 to 500.

I know that, but seems the hardest thing to do to a roller lifter is run it on the street cause of all the low rpm, no need to give me the wtf. I have read many posts about it, seems street use is harder on them than drag, or have i been misunderstanding everyone? Can't recall reading something about them failing much on the strip,seems to always be on the street.

Go flat tappet then,or hydraulic roller lifters or try the untested and give us YOUR results.

If your car is primarily a street driven vehicle, you should not be using a solid roller. I would only recommend using a solid roller on a max effort deal that is probably 75% strip/25% street.

Drag cars can and do spend a good amount of time idling in the pits and staging lanes, can & do have lifter failures as well.

Building an engine is always a comprimise.There is risk in every decision you make.When we try to put serious power on street cars we have to be willing to accept the risks.Aggressive cam/valve train action has proven time and again to make a bunch of power.It also has proven time and again it's apt to hurt more parts.

If running a roller on the street where they were never really designed to go... you increase your risks .

I'm not at all reccomending any specific lobe here but just pointing out that imho some comprimise may be in order if you expect decient amounts of miles on your parts in a street driven car..... perhaps you lose 25HP or so and possibly gain a couple more thousand miles in longevity .

Older style lobes that have a reputation of not hurting parts are much more ideal than the newer fast acting aggressive lobes....

Older grinds like Cranes R260/390-2S-10 has proven it's self time and again on the track and on the street.

.663/.638 , 298/308 , 260/270 -110 lash .028/.030

Or the old Isky RR640 type lobe.

.640 @1.75RR 304 , 264 , 108 single pattern.

I have seen both these grinds last years and many thousands of miles on the street and easily propel cars in the 10's.

Granted they probably wont make quite the power that the cam you mentioned above but are more likely to live and still make gobs of power.

No one should expect engines built of the magnatude that use these type of cams to go 100,000 miles....I sure wouldnt want to drive a car of that magnatude that many miles....

But some comprimise and watching your valvetrain like a hawk and you at least should have some sort of chance of liveing to some degree on the street.
This is not an area where one should only lash their valve once a year type thing !... Comprimise
.... love it or hate it but cant live without it.

ahh, just wanted an opinion on the rollerx lifters, since none of you know, thank you. I have a roller currently and am going to keep it, just wanted to put the best lifter in it that i can, I know running them on the street isn't what they are meant for. i was just going to change them this winter to be safe, that cam I listed is in the car and has been since it was built in 97 by another guy. It a 296/304 258/268 so it isn't much different than that crane, but if I was switching cams harold has already given me his choices, this was just a question about shubecks. Sorry for the confusion.

Well if you've run that cam since 97 I'd say you must be doing something right, what lifters were on it since 97? How many miles? Bob

Well thats the problem, I don't know. I bought the car in september of 2004. I did talk to the guy who built it and it had been down the track 10 times he said and maybe 1000 street miles. He then sold it to the guyI bought it from and he says he didn't put 200 miles on it in 2 years. I would assume they are lunati and that is what he thought he put in but couldn't remember. I just want to do it to be safe and see what they are. Saw the shubeck rooler x and thought I might give them a try, they are 900 bucks, but by the time you rebuild a set of iskys once you will be close to the same money. I am not sure what I am going to do. I will drive it quite often in the summer, although it will be mostly hiway miles and with 4.56 gears oil to the lifters shouldn't be a problem. I wouldn't be surprised if I put 5000 miles on it, which reminds me i need to get a speedo on it. I am also thinking of puttin 3.73 gears in it and some 29.5 tires under it.

You have a potential time bomb inside your motor. Not knowing what brand lifter is in there, much less not knowing how much use they truly have seen as well as not knowing the exact spring specs is a very risky deal.

I know from experience as I ran a set of lifters that came with an engine I bought and within 50 passes, a lifter went bad and tore the cam up. Not only that, but the pulverized lifter pieces tore the crank up, oil pump, as well as pieces sticking in the piston skirts and putting bad scratches in the cylinder walls...made a big mess.

I would highly recommend you replace them now with a set of Crower sever duty's with HIPPO or the Isky Red Zones. I've followed literally hundreds of posts and the Crowers have clearly shown to prove themselves to be the most reliable longest lasting out there. I hear good things about the Isky's too, but have not seen the long history of reliability that the Crowers have shown, porbably because the Red Zones are a fairly new offering from Isky.

Once you buy new lifters, I highly suggest checking your lash a couple times a year and pulling the intake every winter and remove and inspect every lifters rollers for smoothness and swap the set out if you have any signs of rougness or skipping as the roller turns.

Spending $500 for the Crowers or Isky's is a wise investment if you want the most reliable lifter. I learned my lesson the hard way...new set of Crowers are expected at my door any day now.

I know, that is what I am going to do, The springs were replaced last year, but it just sits most the time so I am going to get new springs also. I am not driving the car now, crummy roads in iowa during the winter, by spring it will have new lifters and springs. I am throwing around the idea od putting a big hydr-roller in itor a solid, haven't decided yet. I have done many hours of reading on here since I got the car so I know what you are saying and agree with you completely. Have talked to steve at length over the phone and he said the same thing. I want to keep the roller just because, and it just sounds and runs like nothing i have had before.

o, i sure appreciate you time and opinions. Think I will just go with the isky since wolf sells them, plus they are rebuildable and the crowers aren't.

orange2, I bought two new sets of Isky Red Zones, one of which my son has put in his 540. These are very nice roller lifters. He had one Crane roller lifter fail in a 481" BB but it didn't do any damage. Red Zones from Wolfy for me!