I honestly don't know enough about these things to pick the right one out. I don't need one of those expensive custom built ones because my entire car keeps changing as my budget changes. I do know that I need to get rid of the stock one! I will get a trani. cooler and install it inline with my trani. cooler built into the radiator. I spend alot of my time driving 45-48mph and 55-59mph. So whats the deal with not wanting one that stalls above your cruise speed? I would like a converter that will give me the quickest launch on street tires without blowing them off. Maybe 2,400-2,600? If I get a 2,400 and then drive around at 2,200 does that mean its slipping and being really inefficient and going to give me crappy gas mileage/heat up the trani. or what? Also what is the point of a smaller diameter converter? Thanks Scott!

The smaller the converter the more stall speed you get, most of the time. If you are wanting to run street tires, your traction problems will more than likely get worse with more stall speed. Something like the TCI Brake a Way or the B&M 2000 would work for you but the street tires are going to be a draw back. What gear and tire size are you running?

3.50 gears and my own traction bar design. The furd posi is worn out so with single track and 265/50 15 radial TA's my best 60' so far was a 2.085. I held the rpm's at about 1,750 leaving the line. It didnt turn the "tire" over at all even going to WOT right away, but it actually bogged the motor down. That is with a stock 307 stall converter. My 60' leaving at idle was 2.2##, then leaving at 1,500rpm's was 2.1##, and the last time I raced I left at 1,750 was 2.085. I dont know how much rpm I can give it before the "tire" breaks loose lol.

If you email me your engine/car combo I will give you some ideas...

Ok, I'll do that in the morning thanks Steve!

I have a 2400 in a car with 3.08s. Flat ground there are no problems. On a long hill you do need to pay attention to what is going on.