Long post , means I need help !!

Fist time out Sunday with a new set up on the distributor. Blaster II coil & MSD E Curve 18/36* all in 3000 rpm and best run was 14.095 @103 but I know tuning will get me 13's. Combo is 454 with forged crank, XE274 cam, edelbrock alum heads, holley blue pump and 3310 holley (jet 74/74). I know the car is capable of way more on street tires, so plan is to 1. change jets (76/76), then 2. try more timing advance. Based upon this , I may switch carb to run 750 DP. Does anyone have experience / tips on e curve changes that can give results. Also did you bump the timing up.
What I noticed was shift light set 5500 , car pulled great through all 4 gears but 100 yrds before the end , it seemd to go flat, seconderies were in .
thanks

Post your complete ET slip. Need to see some incrementals to be able to judge how the car performed in the first 60' and 330' (You say it pulled through all 4 gears, so I assume it is a Muncie 4-speed).
Need to see the MPH in the 1/8th and the 1/4. 103 MPH with a stickshift is good for about a 13 flat

change ONE thing @ a time....you say the car pulls hard through all 4 gears, is it a stick?
if so you need to try the 750dp!

does the carb have a rear powervalve? SOME people block those on old 3310s.
if so go up 6 jet sizes. Is your fuel pump capable ? is the stock fuel line still in place?
and street tires ..Are you talking regular radials?

You need to convert that 4160 to 4150 . This will give you the ability to change the jets in the rear. Mine did just what yours is doing as far as lay flat on the top end. Mine was jetted 72 front and the factor metering plate that equals a 76. Way to lean for mine....I converted it and stepped the rear jets up to 84's. Before it would go up to 5300rpm and just sit there....refused to pull any higher! Now with the jet swap rips to 6000 + no problem.

Our track, for brackets has limited data on the slip. Here goes
1st run: reaction: .358 < 60 ft 2.208 < 1/8 mile 9.149 ( no MPH) < ET 14.095 < MPH 102.5
2 nd run: .343< 60 ft 2.152 < 1/8 mile 9.138 ( no mph) < ET 14.134 < MPH 104.10

Other runs about same. I am running M22 with an Auburn gear out back 3.42 ring gear.
Car has TA radials ( old school look) and gonna stay with them. Three inch exhaust from 2 inch heddmans. My carb is 3310 vac secondary with no powervalve. Like it was stated , one change at a time. Have a new 750 HP that stays in the box till we sort out timing. Will pull the distributor cover to get the module settings, believe its Curve E ( 0/5) .

The fuel pump is new holley blue set at 7 pounds, new in line filter and new 3/8 lines. Traction always an issue, I slip the clutch to roll out, leave at idle, no bog in the carb.
thanks guys

your losing a lot in the 60. what the car really wants is more gear and slicks. advancing your timing may help it pull more on the top end

Has anybody experience adjusting the E-Curve distributor. The setings are confusing when you read the spread sheet provided by MSD. This is the first thing I wanted to play with to improve ET. Thanks

For the dragstrip, the curve will not make any difference as long as the total advance (36*) is all in by 2500 - 3000 RPM. Once you leave the line, your RPM will never be below that, so you will be at max timing anyway.

your losing a lot in the 60. what the car really wants is more gear and slicks. advancing your timing may help it pull more on the top end

I was under the impression that increasing the timing helps with more bite early.:thumbsup:

Our track, for brackets has limited data on the slip. Here goes
1st run: reaction: .358 < 60 ft 2.208 < 1/8 mile 9.149 ( no MPH) < ET 14.095 < MPH 102.5
2 nd run: .343< 60 ft 2.152 < 1/8 mile 9.138 ( no mph) < ET 14.134 < MPH 104.10

Other runs about same. I am running M22 with an Auburn gear out back 3.42 ring gear.
Car has TA radials ( old school look) and gonna stay with them. Three inch exhaust from 2 inch heddmans. My carb is 3310 vac secondary with no powervalve. Like it was stated , one change at a time. Have a new 750 HP that stays in the box till we sort out timing. Will pull the distributor cover to get the module settings, believe its Curve E ( 0/5) .

The fuel pump is new holley blue set at 7 pounds, new in line filter and new 3/8 lines. Traction always an issue, I slip the clutch to roll out, leave at idle, no bog in the carb.
thanks guys


Your loosing a TON in your 60' times. That is the MOST CRITICAL area of the track and one that most people fail to realize - until you race for awhile - effects your ETs.

For instance - on our cars, if we gain anything in the first 60'- you will see a near 2.5x gain in your end ET. What I mean is you are getting 2.2 sec 60' times - with your MPH you should be able to get into the 1.6 range....so that is .6 to the good. If you could hook your car you would see a 2.5 x .6 = 1.5sec better ET or about a 12.6sec ET.

Again you need to work on nothing but getting your car to hook - without it hooking you can add all the power you want, and it won't do as much good as just planting the tires. A dead hooking and working car gains you BIGTIME dividends on your ET. ;)

Your loosing a TON in your 60' times. That is the MOST CRITICAL area of the track and one that most people fail to realize - until you race for awhile - effects your ETs.

For instance - on our cars, if we gain anything in the first 60'- you will see a near 2.5x gain in your end ET. What I mean is you are getting 2.2 sec 60' times - with your MPH you should be able to get into the 1.6 range....so that is .6 to the good. If you could hook your car you would see a 2.5 x .6 = 1.5sec better ET or about a 12.6sec ET.

Again you need to work on nothing but getting your car to hook - without it hooking you can add all the power you want, and it won't do as much good as just planting the tires. A dead hooking and working car gains you BIGTIME dividends on your ET. ;)
Man you got that launch thing down pat. The corvette launch is unbelievable.:thumbsup:
Straight axle or what? Breaking any drivetrain parts?
I have friends with insanely powered corvettes that have not figured out your 60" analogy. Big MPH but poor 60's. Always breaking parts and not matching your best.
congrats

Man you got that launch thing down pat. The corvette launch is unbelievable.:thumbsup:
Straight axle or what? Breaking any drivetrain parts?
I have friends with insanely powered corvettes that have not figured out your 60" analogy. Big MPH but poor 60's. Always breaking parts and not matching your best.
congrats

Thanks for the comments. The vette is a completely STOCK supension car - just spent hours upon hours trying things and testing the results to get it to where its at in the videos (of which are not even the good videos). Broke things along the way yes - which caused me to go with a solid rear this past winter in it.....results this spring were very good - first time out with it, the car went 1.3X - and ran some of its new bests in comparitive dead heat. THe car now pulls about 28" wheelies to the bottom of the front tires. Still have not bested my times in the signiture with the solid rear, but when the cooler weather comes, I am sure it will. And best of all - nothing should break.

Both cars run great ETs because they both 60' like crazy - its the result of putting 100% of the power you have to the road. It take a LOT of time and effort to get a car to work well in the 60' area. Its all about having the right setup. PAy particular attention to that on your slips and find out what works and doesn't work - and it will pay bigtime dividends.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c126/ski_dwn_it/60ft.jpg

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c126/ski_dwn_it/9-6-04BSDMon20031rev2.jpg

Jim, thanks for the timing data.
SKI, the hooking is the issue but grenading my 30+ year old muncie is not something I want to address. Last week a friend made a similar observation at the track, told me to try his slicks. I have tried to improve the car in the rear. New axle ( with C clips however) new leaf springs,poly perch & body mounts. Good shocks , so power is getting there with a lot of spin. Maybe the best ET without slicks will be in the high 13's. Slicks will put a lot of stress / backlash into the drive train and transmission. Anyway thanks for the calculation.

I run a 780VS carb and there was alot gained in playing with the Squirters also the jets in the secondary side need to be about 10 richer than the primarys as a starting point.

76 square jetting is WAY too lean in my opinion, especially for your combo.

Good luck and enjoy the ride...
Milan

.....new leaf springs,...........

What kind of car is this? Camaro, Nova?

Jim, thanks for the timing data.
SKI, the hooking is the issue but grenading my 30+ year old muncie is not something I want to address. Last week a friend made a similar observation at the track, told me to try his slicks. I have tried to improve the car in the rear. New axle ( with C clips however) new leaf springs,poly perch & body mounts. Good shocks , so power is getting there with a lot of spin. Maybe the best ET without slicks will be in the high 13's. Slicks will put a lot of stress / backlash into the drive train and transmission. Anyway thanks for the calculation.You should try running drag radials. I ran a 4,200 LB low 12 second car with drag radials, and turned consistent 1.6 second 60' times with a 3,000 RPM stall speed, and 4.56 gears in the rear, and never broke anything with a factory stock drivetrain.

The drag radials would only spin about a half turn or less, so it didn't hurt my 60' time much at all, but yet gave the drivetrain a little bit of a cushion so that nothing would break. If you don't have 1350 series U-joints, then often it's the U-joints that will be the first things to go when running slicks.

What about your rear end gears? What ratio are you running? And how about your exhaust? Do you have headers? And what diameter if so? I don't believe that most 13 second cars even need slicks. drag radials should do fine as long as you lower your air pressure in them to about 17-18 PSI and do a decent burnout.

You need to convert that 4160 to 4150 . This will give you the ability to change the jets in the rear. Mine did just what yours is doing as far as lay flat on the top end. Mine was jetted 72 front and the factor metering plate that equals a 76. Way to lean for mine....I converted it and stepped the rear jets up to 84's. Before it would go up to 5300rpm and just sit there....refused to pull any higher! Now with the jet swap rips to 6000 + no problem.

1. What dirtlips408 said 2x about the carb!:thumbsup:
This conversion will make a huge improvement in the top-end charge!!!
A DP carb may work better with the std trans and gear shifting IF you are lifting & shifting....
2. Traction devices and slicks!:yes:
3. 3.42 out back and an M-22? Get real! That combo is KILLING YOU.
Do the math! Your 3.42 diff x 2.20 1st gear in M-22 = 7.524 drive ratio
Keep your 3.42s and go to an M-20 or TH350 with 2.52 gives you 8.618:1

You either gotta get
Low-Buck a wide-ratio gearbox,
Medium-Buck change the gear ratio out back to 3.73
or big-buck get a TKO if ya love those 3.42s

"Gotago" Mark had an M-21 and 3.31s.....the 69 SS396 Chevelle lugged taking off, less responsive than it should have been. Same sorta sad tale you have going until he went to the TKO a few weeks back. A ride yesterday with the TKO and it takes off effortlessly....2.87 1st gear.

"Flink69SS" runs an M-20 and 3.31s and slicks...12.2 and 113 with his 454