Yesterday I started to remove the front drum brakes from my 1967 Chevelle. I was able to get everything off except the backing plates, on both sides. Each backing plate had three bolts holding it to the spindle and steering linkage. The two lower bolts that were connected to the steering linkage came off with just a little bit of a fight. The top bolt would not budge. We sprayed it with WD40, used the biggest breaker-bar that we had, and we even tried to heat it with a propane tourch. This bolt would not move.

I am installing disk brakes on the front, and I need to have the backing plates off to install these. Does anyone have an idea to remove these bolts without damaging the spindle? I would also like not having to remove the spindle from the car, if all possible.

I am also replacing the front springs, do they have spring compressors that will compress enough so that I do not have to undo the ball joint?

Thanks for you help.
Bill

the only way to get the springs out is by separating a ball joint, I would probably separate the lower one, it makes access much easier. and whatever you do, BE VERY CAREFUL - SPRINGS ARE VERY DANGEROUS!
are the disc brakes aftermarket, if they are not, and you have the whole spindle, just change it. they are not difficult, just keep the lower a-arm supported with a jackstand. also if you are using original style brake hoses for the discs, you will need the frame brackets that hold the hoses, since they are different. and the last part, if you have an aftermarket system that uses the drum spindles, yes that bolt is very hard to get out, it would probably be best to use an air gun, or have someone hit (not too hard - just repetatively) the backside of the breaker bar behind the socket with a medium size ball peen hammer as you are applying force to the bolt

Tom

The disc brake conversion that I am using is from Wilwood. They say I can use the original spindles for this. I have stainless flex hose for the brake line between the caliper and frame mount.

For the bolt, we did try and air gun on it too. It did not budge with this either.

Thanks for your help, will be careful with the spring.

Bill

Yeah, those bolts are tough. I've had to use a 3/4" drive impact on some before...

Heat um again, HOTTER as in dull red and let cool, do it a couple of times.

A touch of heat, and an old wrench and a 4 lb sledge hammer did the trick on mine. That evidently made more TQ than a 450 lb-ft impact gun.

It helps if you use this method when you are pissed off. :D

Heat um again, HOTTER as in dull red and let cool, do it a couple of times.

:yes: Instead of a propane torch us an oxy-acetylene torch for a more focused intense flame.

Yup. I used MAPP-Oxy torch on mine. You can get a little portable plumbers kit at Sears. I used heat a 1/2 breaker bar. No way I could have done it on the car.

Biggest breaker bar you have, the slip a longer pipe over it. It will turn.

Make sure you use a good 6-point socket (impact). It will turn.

Archimedes said "Give me a place to stand and with a lever, I will move the whole world."

The longer the pipe, the more leverage.

I have been known to use fence post lengths for the bolts from hell that woudn't move...but did.

The heat and insane pipe lengths will serve you well.

Archimedes said "Give me a place to stand and with a lever, I will move the whole world."



My dad would probably say "Give my son a place to stand and with a lever, he can tear the vice off of my workbench." That's what happened many years ago, and he still reminds me of it whenever he gets a chance. :D An impact gun usually does the trick, if not: Heat and let cool as described above and try again. Just let it cool off before you try to turn it, bolts can be very soft when they're hot (don't ask how I know). And as someone said: Use a 6-point impact socket. One mistake with a 12-point socket, and your bolt might be round and forever stuck in the spindle.

Or you can just leave the shields on, take the spindles off and call it a day. Drum spindles are a dime a dozen, so it might not be worth the aggravation to save the ones you have.

Everyone,

Thanks for your replies on this. I have worked on the car today, as I took the back brakes apart. I am rebuilding the drums here.

I ended up cleaning all of the grease off of the spindle shafts while I was working, and noticed something. Both of the shafts have fretting damage on them. They are heavily damaged from years of life on the car, well 40 years. So, I will have to buy new ones as I can not trust these with the damage on them. I do not need to have a shaft break on me while driving the car.

I do want to thank everyone for helping me out.
Bill

Bill,

The torque on the large bolt is around 130 lb ft, so it will take a good impact to get it loose. I used my 1/2" Snap On gun from the shop. By the way, if you are interested, I have a set of drum spindles that have been glass beaded and painted cast iron grey. Name your price. I was going to keep the drum brakes on my car so I had completely cleaned everything. Then I decided to do discs so now I have an extra set of spindles. I can e-mail you a picture.

The only way to get the spring out is to take the ball joint loose.

yup, 1/2" impact gun did it for me.