I have a factory air car and I have converted it to r134a including replacing the POA valve with a low pressure switch setup. I have read that this can be hard on the factory compressor as they were not made to cycle. My question is I'm getting a mist of oil slinging onto the fender well below the compressor. I'm assuming front seal. Are these difficult to replace?

I have a factory air car and I have converted it to r134a including replacing the POA valve with a low pressure switch setup. I have read that this can be hard on the factory compressor as they were not made to cycle. My question is I'm getting a mist of oil slinging onto the fender well below the compressor. I'm assuming front seal. Are these difficult to replace?

Most of the A6 compressors left an oil stripe on the hood. The shaft seal was designed to seep oil to lubricate the ceramic mechanical seal. They can leak an awful lot of oil and not refrigerant. A "certain amount" of oil slinging is actually normal. The definition of that "certain amount" is a real grey area. GM always stated that any amount of oil is ok as long as there is no refrigerant leakage. Have someone use a refrigerant leak detector on it.

There is a double lip neoprene seal available that will fix this but the refrigerant has to be recovered to change it. I don't know of any new or reman A6's that come with this seal in place.

The part numbers are:ACDelco# 15-30948 or, GM# 2724954 The seal is actually for newer HR6 and V5 compressors, but works great in the A6.
Go to autoacforum.com and do a search for a thread titled "GM A-6 Compressors, Rebuilt?" There is an illustration that shows a cutaway of the A6 seal area and tells where to install the seal. It actually fits into the area where the old seal "seat" used to sit.
You remove all of the old seal components, install the oring into the seal bore, install the seal, then install the snap ring. You'll only use those 3 parts from the new seal kit.

Thanks a lot for the info and part numbers. I would have to say the oil I am getting is a light mist at best (if even that, on hood and inner fender). There is no refrigerant leak that I can tell but have not used a "sniffer" on it, so I guess I'll leave well enough alone for now. It seems to cool pretty well considering it's r134a and the pathetic blower motor wouldn't blow out a candle.

Thanks a lot for the info and part numbers. I would have to say the oil I am getting is a light mist at best (if even that, on hood and inner fender). There is no refrigerant leak that I can tell but have not used a "sniffer" on it, so I guess I'll leave well enough alone for now. It seems to cool pretty well considering it's r134a and the pathetic blower motor wouldn't blow out a candle.

Airflow on most older GM cars is marginal at best. I never could understand that. Their MVAC system was the best ever designed, but their air distribution systems stunk.

I'll give you a hint. Get rid of that POA eliminator and have your old POA calibrated for R134a (a simple process). Those eliminators are garbage, IMHO. They are a gimmick aimed at people who don't understand how a POA valve works. The POA valve is the heart of your AC system and should be left in place. If your old one is bad, a good used one is fairly easy to find. They are very durable and failures are uncommon, even among valves that have been unused for a number of years.