I just removed seats and carpet from my 67, and was a little surprised my floors were as good as they are. Someone attempted a half a** patch job the past, and even though I have never welded, I think I could have done better

Is it easier to just get the entire length floor pan, or get the front and and rear individually. I mean, is it actually less work to install the entire length pan? What would be a good reference to read before I start, and what tools should I need? Anyone in Pittsburgh want to take a look and let me know what panels I should actually replace?

This picture shown the passenger side from rear to front. You can see the bad patch job on the rear floor. The floor is actually much better than it looks in the picture

http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/9541/2602429620032804792S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2602429620032804792ciEgUs)

you should be able to get that rear section. If you need to replace the front on that side, I'd get the full length passenger section.

I agree with Andy. Just get this panel Click (http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=chevellecamino&Product_Code=RFP-64RR&Category_Code=SHEETMETALFLOOR) Lay it over the bad area, trace the outline, Cut and weld in the new panel. Heres a full list if you need other panels. Click (http://www.ss396.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=chevellecamino&Category_Code=SHEETMETALFLOOR)

you do NOT want to replace more then you have to trust me. IF you dont believe how much work it is see the post 64-67 A body floor done right... IT sould be near the top...

thanks for the tips and info guys. I just hope the new rear floor pans are bigger then the patch that is already there. I think it it. I think I can get by with the two rear and driver side front, and the front isn't even that bad

SO don't replace the whole floor pan with new braces, only replace in pieces?
my floors' rusted out at left and right where feet go, front and rear. Also the trunk pan has holes. Why cut/weld 6-9 pieces, versus weld in one full pan? go easy now, Im beginner, juzda-learnin.

SO don't replace the whole floor pan with new braces, only replace in pieces?
my floors' rusted out at left and right where feet go, front and rear. Also the trunk pan has holes. Why cut/weld 6-9 pieces, versus weld in one full pan? go easy now, Im beginner, juzda-learnin.

I had little holes everywhere, and two rusted through floor braces. Ended up replacing the whole shootin match.

Post some pics so the self appointed experts like me can point you in the wrong direction :clonk: :D

If your sections needing repair are over a floor brace, get a spot weld drill bit and an air hammer to free the damaged sections from the brace. Only replace what needs replacing. Measure 3 times, measure again then cut.

Because replacing the whole thing will require about 300 plug welds.... ITs a nightmare... Repair sections only if you can. Trust me its the way to go.

I think I will be able to get by with a front and rear pan on driver side and just the rear on passenger.

Is it easiest to lay new pan down, trace outline then cut inside of the line by about 1/4" and set new pan on that lip an weld? I've never welded, and don't have access to a welder, so I'd probably have to prep everything and make sure it's ready for welding and take it somewhere to have it done (any idea of approx cost to weld in the 3 pans?)

Also, are these things pre drilled for the seat bolts when replacing in the seat area? I can see it being a real pain to line up seats if they arent

I just received my floor pans from Musclecarmetal.com (http://www.musclecarmetal.com/) I was kind of surprised to see how big the box was. Wasn't expecting the pans to actually be the entire floor area (shows how much I know)

I got both rears, and have a question about them. To they over lap each other or butt against each other? They each have two holes in the area of the driveshaft hump.

I have to leave for work in a few minutes so don't know when I'll get a chance to mess with them (15 hour overtime shift tonight then my normal 24 hour shift tomorrow, so 39 hours straight, on a beautiful day!)

To the other guys from Pgh, sorry I won't be able to make the Wexford Starlite LASTCar Cruise of 2007 (http://www.carcruises.com/cruise_detail.asp?eid=9797) Looks to be a perfect day for it

I replaced the drivers rear section on my 70 elky.
It was a ton of work and alot more fitting than I had anticipated
once it was cut out I was sorry I had removed it. Although it had pinholes it was really very solid.
For the right rear I purchased an epoxy floor panel repair kit made by POR

I haven't used it yet but I'll keep you posted, of course there is nothing structurally compromised in my floorboard so it should work well,
without ugly welds

I replaced the drivers rear section on my 70 elky.
It was a ton of work and alot more fitting than I had anticipated
once it was cut out I was sorry I had removed it. Although it had pinholes it was really very solid.
For the right rear I purchased an epoxy floor panel repair kit made by POR

I haven't used it yet but I'll keep you posted, of course there is nothing structurally compromised in my floorboard so it should work well,
without ugly welds

I'm starting to wonder if I should have gone to this extreme myself. My floors weren't to bad, just that someone had tried to previously patch, and not very well. I can see lots of light coming through some of the welds.

I really think I may be in a little over my head, not with welding in the new pans, but with cutting out the old, and fitting in the new. I have no idea where to even start cutting. The new pans have a folded lip all around the edges. I don't see how that fits on the existing floor?

If anyone in the Pittsburgh area would like to come take a look, and give me some tips, I sure wont say no :) (I'll do all the work)

The floor pans are sandwiched in between the inner and outer rocker panels. If you need to cut out to the door drill out the spot welds and peel back the outer rocker (the area you see over lapping onto the floors when you remove the door sill plates). This is also the same behind the door on the quarter window inner rear panel assembly, and the front kick panel area. As multiple people have stated here "only cut out what is bad". Cut 1/4 inch outside of the rusted areas to have good sheetmetal to weld to.

I was just thinking (dangerous, I know). My floors aren't really to bad. Should I cut the new floor pans to just cover the bad areas? At first I was thinking I needed to install the entire (new) floor pans, which will require lots of cutting of the existing old floors.

I'm a little worried about the seat and seatbelt bolts/holes, but those are areas I want to replace with the new. Also, another place that is still very solid, is the part where the rear seat brackets are, so I would think just cut the new pans so I don't have to mess with that area? It's also very sold at the drive shaft hump. Another concern is removing the old where it's welded to the cross pan brace, and not cutting through the brace while removing the old pans