Harold Sutton / Currie 9" rear? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Harold Sutton / Currie 9" rear?


ak69
Feb 22nd, 05, 11:48 PM
Harold, I have searched some previous post's, and recall you saying that you have experience with the Currie 9" rear. I have a Currie set up, just installed 4.11 gear. I am curious as to the location of the upper arms / ears on the Currie housing, are they raised from the stock GM 10 / 12 bolt height? I have read post's that say they are, some say they are not. I scored some SSM bars from a fellow team member and would be interested to here your take on the Currie unit / SSM's. Thanks!

Harold Sutton
Feb 23rd, 05, 2:56 AM
Hi Craig, The Currie 9" in my sons Chevelle is a stock one he purchased as a complete bolt in unit with stock mounting locations. He has added more adjustability items to this rear end in the past 10 years that this trouble free unit has been in the car. He started with a stock posi trac unit as best that i can remember. When we put the big block in the car it tore up the posi and we replaced it with a spool. I would reccommend using a nodular center section with good 31 or 35 spline axles. The rear pinion support was found to be cracked in the standard housing when we replaced it but hadn't completely broken yet. He has Hotchkiss adjustable upper control arms and Hotchkiss solid lowers. This rear end has approximately the same mounting points as the 12 Bolt's and works quite well if you get the right tires and wheels. Stay away from air bags and like fixes as they don't work as well as a rear end thats free to move. Add a Dick Miller or similar anti-roll bar to the rear end housing to control frame twist. The best tire we've found is the M/T 10.5W x 28" E.T. Drag on a 10" Weld Alumistar 2 wheel. I don't know if the Southside lowers control arms will work better than our Hotchkiss units as we've never tried them. My son's best 60', with a fair amount of power is a 1.315 with the nitrous on about 150 H.P. level but the car got up pretty high which is pretty hard on the headers and the oil pan. I like the way it leaves on a 100 shot. About 6" of daylight and comes down easy. ( still cut 1.335) I don't have anything against the southside bars and i think the main difference is they change the lower mounting points and hit the tires harder. Since you have way less power than my son i don't think they will hurt you any. We also have C.E. three way adjustable shocks in the back and Moroso springs in both front and rear. Better double adjustable shocks might help but it bites so good now i don't want to mess with success. Definately stay away from QA-1s which my son put on once and didn't work.

ak69
Feb 23rd, 05, 12:01 PM
Thanks Harold! I do have a nodular center section, 31 spline axels, detroit locker, daytona pinion support, 1350 joints. Currently running KYB shocks, air bag and hotchkis non adjust upper and lower arms. The front end rises well, I have been told that I am lifting the drivers side front and seeing daylight under the tire. I need to get some good video to post the launch, as I would like to see it from out side the driver's seat. Curently running Hoosier radial 30x10.5 slick. I will swap to a 28 tall tire when these go away. Thanks for the info, I was almost sure that the Currie housing had the bushing ears at stock hieght. I was thinking that if they were rasied and with the use of the SSM's that it would move IC to far to the rear, looks like I should be good for the times / power that I am at. Shooting for 11.5x to stay away from the cage thing for this summer. Long range plans call for stepping up the power, would like a rear set up good for 10's!!!!!

Harold Sutton
Feb 23rd, 05, 12:48 PM
Hi Craig, The suspension gremlins don't set in until you get down to about the high 10 second range, then they get worse the quicker you go. My son's car used to twist like a pretzel with the driver's side coming up about 10" higher than the passenger side. A anti-roll bar stops all of that nonsense. We didn't find it slowed the car down any though. The SSM bars do change the instant center some but since the lower control arms are much longer than the uppers it won't change it much and shouldn't have much impact on the overall working of the car. It appears your car is working pretty good for the power you have. I was stationed at Elmendorf when i was young and i didn't even know about Wasilla and don't know if the drag strip was there then. (July 1962 to July 64). I was there for the '64, Good Friday Earthquake.